Northern Auto Tech - ECU and Blue & Me Repairs

Technical Help required please

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Technical Help required please

jamesd84 said:
Just goes to show that air can leak in through a small gap but diesel won't necessarily leak when under pressure.
Click to expand...

The leak's on the low pressure side. so before the hp pump.
Just think of it as sucking up fluid through a straw with a small hole half way up it, the fluid won't leak out, but you'll get a mouth full of fluid and air.

Now if you cover the end and blow fluid out through the same straw (high pressure side after the hp pump) fluid will leak out of the small hole.

Leaks on the low pressure side tend to draw air in, leaks on high pressure side tend to leak fuel out but both can cause low fuel rail pressure.
 
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Well that was short lived, struggled to start this morning cut out and then struggled to start again, briefly flashed up some warning lights whilst driving but was too quick for me to see; took it straight back to garage so back in courtesy car again, the twingo they've given us is terrible in these icy conditions (rear engine, rear wheel drive).
just hope I get the panda back before it snows again :-/
 
Hi.
Does your car have a priming/bleed pump on the filter? if it does try it before a cold start and see if it helps. If not try switching on and off the ignition a few times before cranking the engine to help bleed out air.
 
Hi, no its got a lift pump in the fuel tank, this runs for around 5 seconds before the glowplug light goes out and I attempt to start the engine.
I have previously tried running the pump a few times but it doesn't make any difference, I also keep the fuel level above 50 percent as it does look to be fuel supply related.
When I got the car the previous owner had put some black insulation tape over the yellow light in the stop start disable switch, no idea why but I wonder if its related to this fault, it also had a new battery fitted by the dealer just before I picked the car up.
Tempted to reject the car now as I've only had it 6 weeks and its been back to them 4 times now for various things
 
jamesd84 said:
When I got the car the previous owner had put some black insulation tape over the yellow light in the stop start disable switch, no idea why but I wonder if its related to this fault, it also had a new battery fitted by the dealer just before I picked the car up.
Click to expand...

Probably because when the stop start button is off, the yellow light on the button is on!
Some find it annoying.

Did you buy it from a Fiat dealer?
 
Yeah car brought from Fiat, it is currently with them hopefully being repaired. They are supposed to be looking at clutch but they told me they're not sure if the vibration at 1500rpm is normal or not!
 
Fixed again! Particulate filter was badly blocked and they think the back pressure was enough to stall the engine, they've done a forced regen.
I'm not convinced
 
jamesd84 said:
Fixed again! Particulate filter was badly blocked and they think the back pressure was enough to stall the engine, they've done a forced regen.
I'm not convinced
Click to expand...

About the cause, or about the solution?

I'd say it's a reasonable explanation for the symptoms, but I'd be sceptical about whether a forced regen would be sufficient to restore long term functionality of the dpf if it were that badly blocked in the first place.
 
I can't see it being that badly blocked with no message or error light and I can't see it starting and then immediatly stalling (although the exhaust pressure would quickly rise on starting), also I do plenty of long runs in the vehicle. However that being said if there was an error stored for soot loading it wouldn't perform a regen on its own and the last time I noticed it doing a regen was at least 500 miles ago. I have heard that a forced regen will remove about 10% soot loading?
they've had it since Saturday and they say its started fine everytime, I will know tomorrow morning when I start it.
 
Car has been totally fine since collecting on tuesday and the vibration that I also mentioned seems much better, shortly after collecting it did a regen for about 5 minutes but hasn't since.
May look at getting some way of checking the soot loading for future reference as my scantool doesn't seem to work with Fiat although it does with every other car I've tried it on.
Thanks for everyones input :)
 
Typically the car started playing up again on Christmas eve; same as before starts on the money, runs for several seconds then stalls, then after resarting is a bit hesitant driving until engine warms up a bit. Also injectors are quite noisy or it could just be diesel knock.
Had all the inlet off this morning to check all the pipework etc. not really found anything too awful, except the the breather that comes from the back of the engine that joins the inlet pipework before the turbo was full of water/oil (I.E creamy coloured gunk).
Took the return pipe off of the HP fuel pump (before doing anything) and on activating the lift pump just diesel was coming out i.e no air, with ignition on for 5 seconds it pumped 1/2 litre, so don't think theres an issue here.
The only other thing i noticed was that the compressor on the turbo had been hitting the casing (where the suction pipework goes) it has polished the inside of the casing up however there doesn't seem to be any damage to the compressor.
Happy Christmas all
 
jamesd84 said:
Typically the car started playing up again on Christmas eve; same as before starts on the money, runs for several seconds then stalls, then after resarting is a bit hesitant driving until engine warms up a bit. Also injectors are quite noisy or it could just be diesel knock.
Had all the inlet off this morning to check all the pipework etc. not really found anything too awful, except the the breather that comes from the back of the engine that joins the inlet pipework before the turbo was full of water/oil (I.E creamy coloured gunk).
Took the return pipe off of the HP fuel pump (before doing anything) and on activating the lift pump just diesel was coming out i.e no air, with ignition on for 5 seconds it pumped 1/2 litre, so don't think theres an issue here.
The only other thing i noticed was that the compressor on the turbo had been hitting the casing (where the suction pipework goes) it has polished the inside of the casing up however there doesn't seem to be any damage to the compressor.
Happy Christmas all
Click to expand...

Hi,
If the turbo rotor bearing has enough play to allow the compressor to touch the housing it needs replacement. You can buy just the rotor and bearing as a "cartridge" that you fit the existing housings to for under £100. If you leave it too long it will only get worse. You may have a cooling or oil supply issue that is the root of the problems. I'd suggest you get a coolant pressure and head leakage test (detects exhaust gasses in cooling system) nd a oil pressure check before spending too much more on the car.

Robert G8RPI.
 
Hi,

Been back to dealer today and they've agreed to let me have another vehicle, so have gone for a Ford Fiesta ecoboost.

Thanks to everyone that has offered me help
James
 
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