Technical FIAT Panda clutch switch Euro6

[AB100]

Here's a guide to the Murphy-modification used to get rid of the annoying rev-fluffing when you set off in the Euro6 Panda 1.2.

It's a sensible choice for those who like to control their launches (see image for numbering):

Before doing anything, have a light source, the drivers seat fully back and preferably tiny hands and no back problems. No tools required for the switch part.

1. Disconnect the switch. Doing so means you'll get the warning/light, even when you reconnect so budget for a cheap code resetter.

2. Move the weedy lever toward the front of the car and..

3... then pull it to the right. This is what holds the switch in place. You can then pull it away at the joint and it'll move around loosely.

4. Push the yellow 'cage' upwards which then allows you to slip the switch out from the clutch lever.

5. Once the switch is out, stick it on the left side of the steering column and move the wire to reconnect. Perhaps stick it to the back plastic with gaffer tape.

6. Pull off the right-hand ODB cover and plug in your device - reset the warning

7. Stand back, light your pipe and admire your handiwork.

Thanks Murphy.

 

[murphyv310]

Great write up and a well worth mod to do.
The MIL light doesn't come on if you are able to do the job and position the sensor/switch lever in the rest or equivalent of the clutch pedal up position. The little lever has a light spring and the lever should stay that way unless it's pressed, all should be fine.
Mine is neatly tucked behind the plastic footwell cowling.

 

[Davidoff46]

I'm interested in this change, but I would not do damage, someone did a video ??

 

[AB100]

Great write up and a well worth mod to do.
The MIL light doesn't come on if you are able to do the job and position the sensor/switch lever in the rest or equivalent of the clutch pedal up position. The little lever has a light spring and the lever should stay that way unless it's pressed, all should be fine.
Mine is neatly tucked behind the plastic footwell cowling.

There's no video but the photo pretty much shows all. Bear in mind this was on a UK right-hand-drive car.

Not sure how the Left-hand-drive looks but would expect similar.

 

[murphyv310]

I didn't take any pictures. The job is awkward with arthritis and even worse using a camera. To be fair its really self explanatory once looking at it. The effort is well worth it.

 

[Davidoff46]

thank you guys ,one more question, what do you mean by "rev-fluffing" ??
means that it drowns at the start??

 

[murphyv310]

Hi.
I think that what happens is when you take away especially if you are not a new driver you just expect the engine revs to just rise gradually as you press the throttle and bring up the clutch. Not so with the clutch switch in place, as soon as you bring up the clutch pedal the revs rise by 200rpm but a little throttle and the revs rise disproportionately up to 2000 rpm at times, then it can bog down too at times. You are left wondering what it will do at the next standing start. Perhaps if all new cars are like this then new drivers can adapt easier than us old codgers, to be fair though its not the way any car should drive.

 

[Davidoff46]

I think my panda is different from yours...

 

[MrDerv]

2 things to bare in mind...

1, This will affect your Stop/Start
2, You'll have to restart the engine by key if you stall, rather than just pushing in the clutch.

 

[murphyv310]

Mine doesn't have stop start. Does any 1.2 Panda have it?

 

[AB100]

I think my panda is different from yours...

Image is too small to make out but I am not seeing the top of the clutch pedal lever like in the diagram I have shown.

It will indeed affect your Stop-Start presumably, though I have that disabled anyway.

 

[Davidoff46]

precisely where is this switch ??

 

[AB100]

precisely where is this switch ??

It's just below the Clutch level/pedal inside the car. On my image you can see the brake pedal piston in the foreground.

You will need to get your head on the floor and use a torch. Follow the clutch pedal shaft up towards the top where it pivots and you will presumably then find the switch as shown in my image.

Again, we are assuming that it's in the same place for you as on our right-hand drive cars, even though we use a hydraulic clutch and you use a cable clutch.

 

[g8rpi]

This modification may affect the hill holder (if fitted) functionality too. It would also affect cruse control but I don't think that's an option on the Panda.


Robert G8RPI.

 

[AB100]

This modification may affect the hill holder (if fitted) functionality too. It would also affect cruse control but I don't think that's an option on the Panda.


Robert G8RPI.

Nope, it doesn't affect the hill-holder. I can confirm that.

 

[quotethepigeon]

Sorry to drag up an old thread but is this the switch that sometimes breaks causing stop start to no longer work?

It happened to me.... If so I can use this to repair it!

 

[murphyv310]

Sorry to drag up an old thread but is this the switch that sometimes breaks causing stop start to no longer work?

It happened to me.... If so I can use this to repair it!

Hi.
I wasn't aware that the switch "breaks" so I personally can't make a comment. If you have an ELM Bluetooth code reader and android phone then Torq can be loaded and it will tell you the clutch position switch has no output if duff or removed. ***Note*** it will not illuminate the ELM if removed or failed in the clutch up position.

 

[quotethepigeon]

I used to have multiecuscan and some cables but laptop moved on etc..... Will the ELM do the same as multi ?

 

[murphyv310]

I used to have multiecuscan and some cables but laptop moved on etc..... Will the ELM do the same as multi ?

Hi.
As yet I haven't invested in a Multiecuscan as I use Linux, I need to check that I would get full functionality using XP and Multiecuscan via Virtualbox.

Re the ELM327 dongle, it wont do everything the above can do but it still is a useful tool. You could of course use AlfaOBD along with the ELM dongle and it is available from the Play store as well.

 

[g8rpi]

Hi.
As yet I haven't invested in a Multiecuscan as I use Linux, I need to check that I would get full functionality using XP and Multiecuscan via Virtualbox.

Re the ELM327 dongle, it wont do everything the above can do but it still is a useful tool. You could of course use AlfaOBD along with the ELM dongle and it is available from the Play store as well.

Hi,
MES should work ok with virtual box, you can test it (for CAN INFO) with the demo (free) version.
The ELM 327 is just an interface, the same type is used for MES or Torque and does not affect functionality. MES is MUCH better than Torque for FCA cars. Torque may not give accurate readings for some parameters.
The only extra you need for >2012 Panda is a A3 (Yellow) adaptor lead for full access to some mmodules.
e.g.
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/152875225743?
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/152907210346?
or a set
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/162904443097?
Avoid the cheap <£10 interfaces from China they have a design flaw. I also recommend wired (USB) rther than wireless, a bit of interference during a critical phase of adjustment cout "brick" the ECU. Very rare, but not worth the risk.

Robert G8RPI.