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Old 04-06-2016   #46
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Re: If your car is in warranty...important!

Quote Originally Posted by g8rpi View Post
Body ECU (Electronic Control Unit),
Typically controls things like interior lighting, electric windows, electric seats and other toys. Can also be tied to central locking depending on car. Nothing to do with stability control.

Robert G8RPI.
Into my 30s and I'm out of date on modern stuff!
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Old 04-06-2016   #47
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Re: If your car is in warranty...important!

Quote Originally Posted by triumph7 View Post
Pardon my ignorance but what the hell is a body control module? 😂
In the case of my missus Fiesta (2015 Eco boost titanium X) the body control module is the electronic brain that both partially controls and also ties together via canbus: Climate control, Electric Windows, heated seats, sync, hands free system, heated screens, in car instruments, interior lighting, door sensors, auto gearbox diagnostics, central locking and emergency assistance system.

So it is a giant pain in the a**e if it causes problems as your car becomes a glorified bird***t monument as it's useless to everyone 😀
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Old 04-06-2016   #48
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Re: If your car is in warranty...important!

Quote Originally Posted by leroya500 View Post
So what is the correct spec of oil for the 1.2 and twin air? ( apologies if I didn't read the whole thread)
For the 1.2 is Fiat Reference 9.55535-S2, that is 5w40 fully synthetic acea C3, approved oils include Selenia K Pure Energy and Castrol Edge Professional/Titanium FST 5w40 S2.

For the twin air 9.55532-gs1 is the reference you need, this is 0w30 fully synthetic Acea C2, approved oil is Selenia Digitek PE also Motul 8100 has recently passed testing with alfa romeo with the same spec.
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Old 05-06-2016   #49
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Re: If your car is in warranty...important!

Quote Originally Posted by Alexiloki View Post
For the 1.2 is Fiat Reference 9.55535-S2, that is 5w40 fully synthetic acea C3, approved oils include Selenia K Pure Energy and Castrol Edge Professional/Titanium FST 5w40 S2.

For the twin air 9.55532-gs1 is the reference you need, this is 0w30 fully synthetic Acea C2, approved oil is Selenia Digitek PE also Motul 8100 has recently passed testing with alfa romeo with the same spec.
Im going to be ok servicing a 1200 myself? There's no spooky spooky computers to upset just by changing the oil and plugs? ( cars not in warranty)
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Old 05-06-2016   #50
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Re: If your car is in warranty...important!

Quote Originally Posted by leroya500 View Post
Im going to be ok servicing a 1200 myself? There's no spooky spooky computers to upset just by changing the oil and plugs? ( cars not in warranty)
No computer reset needed when changing the oil on the 1.2.

If you want to reset the service due indicator, the licenced version of MES should be able to do it.
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Old 06-06-2016   #51
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Re: If your car is in warranty...important!

Quote Originally Posted by Alexiloki View Post
Happy days fun to have a tinker isn't it. if your car is in warranty though don't let th...... ......lovely jubbly ��
I am experiencing worser MPG at the mo, done about 100 miles on the new oil so far, and it seems to have different numbers to usual on the IC readout. It's showing 8mpg sometimes when usually I couldn't get it past 15ish on hard acceleration, and when cruising with almost no throttle input on the same exact roads/journeys I do it's showing 50-60 when usually it might be hovering around 80- --.--, if this makes sense.

I'm wondering if the new oil is just a bit new and needs some time to do a few heat cycles etc (this is a thought sparked by some googling and someone saying about oil degrading etc) but from what everyone else is saying is that there could be an issue such as over filling, and I have checked from a few different situations that it's approx 3/4 on the dipstick when cold and level. Strange!

Oh and received a letter from Ancaster this morning about extending my warranty - pretty tempted depending on cost as I still have the car for a good 2-3 years at least. Any ideas cost? 1.2 pop!
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Last edited by PandaMTB; 06-06-2016 at 14:44.
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Old 18-06-2016   #52
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Re: If your car is in warranty...important!

Quote Originally Posted by PandaMTB View Post
I am experiencing worser MPG at the mo, done about 100 miles on the new oil so far, and it seems to have different numbers to usual on the IC readout. It's showing 8mpg sometimes when usually I couldn't get it past 15ish on hard acceleration, and when cruising with almost no throttle input on the same exact roads/journeys I do it's showing 50-60 when usually it might be hovering around 80- --.--, if this makes sense.

I'm wondering if the new oil is just a bit new and needs some time to do a few heat cycles etc (this is a thought sparked by some googling and someone saying about oil degrading etc) but from what everyone else is saying is that there could be an issue such as over filling, and I have checked from a few different situations that it's approx 3/4 on the dipstick when cold and level. Strange!

Oh and received a letter from Ancaster this morning about extending my warranty - pretty tempted depending on cost as I still have the car for a good 2-3 years at least. Any ideas cost? 1.2 pop!
Sorry for the late reply bud, didn't see it

Sometimes new lubricant can cause a very slight drop in MPG, when oils have been in use for a reasonable period, they become more fluid and lose slight viscosity due to chemical degradation, dilution and soil suspension, whereas the new stuff is more viscous, this may make a minor difference but no more than 1-3.5%.

Also worth keeping in mind that within a new filter, the medium is quite tough and after a few days of soaking in the oil will improve in flow rate, I would say the computer is a little out, but I wouldn't worry yourself unduly at this point.

When it comes to warranty, check the pricing and see what you think. On one of my previous cars I took out a warranty with warrantydirect after 3years and I felt it was good value with transparent T&C's , plus the claim process was fair and simple. Might be worth comparing the prices and seeing what you think?
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Old 14-08-2016   #53
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Re: If your car is in warranty...important!

A couple of questions to the experts here please.

1. Do Fiat put fully synthetic Selenia 0W-30 in Euro 6 TwinAir engines from brand new? The perceived wisdom over the years has traditionally been that the first 10K miles should be with mineral oil to allow the engine to bed in - with new tech engine manufacturing methods-wise, is this now no longer the case?

2. My other half has a 62-plate Panda TA with 22k miles up. Am I right that it's a Euro5 engine that uses 5W-40 fully synthetic? I presume I'm OK (best) topping it up with 0W-30??

Many thanks in advance.

TIT (! Hadn't realised until now that was the acronym for my handle!)
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Old 15-08-2016   #54
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Re: If your car is in warranty...important!

Quote Originally Posted by TheItalianThrob View Post
A couple of questions to the experts here please.



1. Do Fiat put fully synthetic Selenia 0W-30 in Euro 6 TwinAir engines from brand new? The perceived wisdom over the years has traditionally been that the first 10K miles should be with mineral oil to allow the engine to bed in - with new tech engine manufacturing methods-wise, is this now no longer the case?



2. My other half has a 62-plate Panda TA with 22k miles up. Am I right that it's a Euro5 engine that uses 5W-40 fully synthetic? I presume I'm OK (best) topping it up with 0W-30??



Many thanks in advance.



TIT (! Hadn't realised until now that was the acronym for my handle!)

Hi bud,

Happy to advise

1) 0w30 is now used as the factory fill in the Twinair engine. The old way of mineral oil for the first 1-10k was absolutely correct, however now this is not only not required but is also a very bad idea.

Manufacturing casting operations and tolerances in modern engines are very exacting, parts are now discarded if they are even slightly out of tolerance, many years ago this was not the case.

Mineral oil was used under the basis of parts being able to bed together and wear together in a specific manner, in doing so improved efficiency and allowed parts to match perfectly. Due to both a combination of very very demanding manufacturing and engine oils, this is not only not needed but as the parts are matched from the factory, excessive wear would actually blunt efficiency and shorten the lifespan of the engine. I've seen testbed engines at work being stripped after 30k simulations with cross hatching and casting marks on load facings and bores, they look brand new. With that in mind, shows the advances in manufacturing and lubricant tech involved.

Also it has to be kept in mind that modern engines are very efficient and most run much cooler than before, small turbocharged engines are a exception to this rule. The temp inside of the turbo for example in operation is massive and rapidly causes oxidisation through thermal shock to the oil. Synthetic oils of groups 3-5 are very much capable of handing this heat and providing cooling to hotspot areas of the engine, whereas mineral would rapidly break down, creating carbon deposits and coking, increased shear, oil film failure, temp instability, acidic environmental stress and chemical instability. Not a good mix.

2) While the Euro 5 engine was supplied with 5w30 FS from the factory, a service bulletin was issued to fiat service advised that 0w30 should be used moving forward during servicing on all Twinair engines, excluding none forced induction engines which are not available in the UK, on this engine it's optional.

5w40 shouldn't be used in this engine, if currently filled with 5w30 (check service invoice), top up with 5w30 until next service fill. If 0w30 is in use then use that to top up. Try not to mix grades unless it's a absolute emergency and if so, make sure the oil is changed sooner rather than later.

Any other questions pop them up or send me a pm and I'll happy try and help
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Old 15-08-2016   #55
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Re: If your car is in warranty...important!

Alexiloki,

Many thanks for the really comprehensive, informative and most helpful reply

Cheers,

Mike
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Old 15-08-2016   #56
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Re: If your car is in warranty...important!

Quote Originally Posted by TheItalianThrob View Post
Alexiloki,



Many thanks for the really comprehensive, informative and most helpful reply



Cheers,



Mike

Anytime Mike, Glad to be able to assist

Alex
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Old 15-08-2016   #57
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Re: If your car is in warranty...important!

For the earlier mJTD engines with DPF like my 16V Croma, Fiat recommend 5W-40 Selenia WR which is a ACEA B3/B4 synthetic oil FIAT 9.55535-N2 (according to data sheet, Croma manual says M2). I've used Morris lubricants Multivis 5W-40 which is ACEA A3 / B4 and "meets" Fiat 9.55535-G1 / H2 / H3 / M2 / N2. I've always been happy with Morris and for an out of warranty car it seems ideal, @Alexiloki , your comments would be appreciated. Cost was 42 for 5 litres compared to a shop4parts discount on WR at 45 (53 list), so not a huge saving.
Interestingly, Castrol's on-line system comes up with Magnatec 5W-30 C2 or Castrol EDGE 5W-40 (C3) for the non DPF car. These meet a Fiat S2 spec, no mention of M2 or N2.

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Old 15-08-2016   #58
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If your car is in warranty...important!

Quote Originally Posted by g8rpi View Post
For the earlier mJTD engines with DPF like my 16V Croma, Fiat recommend 5W-40 Selenia WR which is a ACEA B3/B4 synthetic oil FIAT 9.55535-N2 (according to data sheet, Croma manual says M2). I've used Morris lubricants Multivis 5W-40 which is ACEA A3 / B4 and "meets" Fiat 9.55535-G1 / H2 / H3 / M2 / N2. I've always been happy with Morris and for an out of warranty car it seems ideal, @Alexiloki , your comments would be appreciated. Cost was 42 for 5 litres compared to a shop4parts discount on WR at 45 (53 list), so not a huge saving.
Interestingly, Castrol's on-line system comes up with Magnatec 5W-30 C2 or Castrol EDGE 5W-40 (C3) for the non DPF car. These meet a Fiat S2 spec, no mention of M2 or N2.

Robert G8RPI.

Hi Robert,

As your car is out of warranty, technical reference specs are less important than they were, as a lot of the time they seem to used to wriggle out of warranty claims more than anything else. Aim for the ACEA spec and you can't go wrong

I can say the multivis is pretty good oil, if your happy with it I see no reason to change

Alternatives to that would be Shell Helix Ultra 5w40.

The Shell can be got at around 25 for 5L and is a very effective product. It's worth noting that it's cleaning abilities far outstrip most oils of the grade out here currently so if you want to give you car a clean out, it's a good option for a oil change a few months before emissions testing for MOT. (use a good filter )

The edge C3 can actually be used in a DPF car but due to its USP it's designed for Low-mid Saps engines (Sulfur, Ash, Phosphorus), it can be used in theory but I wouldn't be comfortable with it as that engine is quite hard on its oil and the tolerances are quite tight with that additive pack.

The magnatec 5w30 C2....I have no idea why that would be suggested but the C2 spec is not broadly compatible with A/B 3 or 4, and the viscosity is out of tolerance. I'd avoid personally.

Hope that helps bud
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Last edited by Alexiloki; 15-08-2016 at 22:55.
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Old 15-08-2016   #59
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Re: If your car is in warranty...important!

Thanks,
My thoughts were similar but I did not know the detergent qualities of the Shell Ultra, good to know.

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Old 15-08-2016   #60
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If your car is in warranty...important!

Your welcome. Helix oils tend to come to us for testing quite regularly because it's one of the few oil companies that constantly changes formulation (up to a few times a year, well above industry average), the detergency and sludge handling is very impressive, but that's partially due to the basestock being refined from LNG rather than standard crude oil.

The additive pack increases it even further. Not one for a abused engine mind, if I put that in my sisters car all the guff in that would prob make it self destruct!
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