General What did you do with your Panda today?

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General What did you do with your Panda today?

Treated Becky to a new set of rear brake shoes yesterday after discovering that the old ones were delaminating. Not too surprising as I think the old ones were the original fitment so "only" 12 years old! If you want to see some of the shocking pictures I've posted them in the "not grumpy but not smiling" thread. When I'd done the shoe replacement I started to have a good look at the rear axle which I've commented before is considerably past it's best with quite a lot of "tin worm activity" around the spring pans. The worst bit seems to be around the front edge of the O/S pan where the metal thickness is now probably half what it was when new. There are, so far, no signs of any cracking and nothing has bent or moved out of shape but I think the time is rapidly approaching when I'm going to have to bite the bullet and replace the axle. With this in mind I've been in contact with IM Axles regarding their product: https://www.imaxle.co.uk/new-fiat-panda-axle They state that their axle for the Fiat 500 has thicker spring pan metal compared to the original but make no mention in their advert for the earlier 169 axle so I was interested to know if that has thicker pans too. They confirmed that that is the case.

Can anyone tell me whether the axle stubs are held on with nuts and bolts? I can see four large nuts on the inboard side of the hubs (looking very rusty, not looking forward to tackling them) but are these studs threaded into the axle plate or will I discover hex heads when I remove the brake back plates - which I notice are held on by 2 hex headed screws which also look pretty rusty!

I know at least one forum member has fitted the Later Panda/500 axle to the earlier 169 model Panda but I think I'll just stick with the standard fitment which comes in at £123.95 plus £20 shipping to me up here in Edinburgh - looks good to me. I discovered that at least one of my local factors can supply these axles so I inquired about price - In the mid £180 region, price to be confirmed on placement of order. So looks like they are taking about £40 and I'd have to collect from their branch.
 
Treated Becky to a new set of rear brake shoes yesterday after discovering that the old ones were delaminating. Not too surprising as I think the old ones were the original fitment so "only" 12 years old! If you want to see some of the shocking pictures I've posted them in the "not grumpy but not smiling" thread. When I'd done the shoe replacement I started to have a good look at the rear axle which I've commented before is considerably past it's best with quite a lot of "tin worm activity" around the spring pans. The worst bit seems to be around the front edge of the O/S pan where the metal thickness is now probably half what it was when new. There are, so far, no signs of any cracking and nothing has bent or moved out of shape but I think the time is rapidly approaching when I'm going to have to bite the bullet and replace the axle. With this in mind I've been in contact with IM Axles regarding their product: https://www.imaxle.co.uk/new-fiat-panda-axle They state that their axle for the Fiat 500 has thicker spring pan metal compared to the original but make no mention in their advert for the earlier 169 axle so I was interested to know if that has thicker pans too. They confirmed that that is the case.

Can anyone tell me whether the axle stubs are held on with nuts and bolts? I can see four large nuts on the inboard side of the hubs (looking very rusty, not looking forward to tackling them) but are these studs threaded into the axle plate or will I discover hex heads when I remove the brake back plates - which I notice are held on by 2 hex headed screws which also look pretty rusty!

I know at least one forum member has fitted the Later Panda/500 axle to the earlier 169 model Panda but I think I'll just stick with the standard fitment which comes in at £123.95 plus £20 shipping to me up here in Edinburgh - looks good to me. I discovered that at least one of my local factors can supply these axles so I inquired about price - In the mid £180 region, price to be confirmed on placement of order. So looks like they are taking about £40 and I'd have to collect from their branch.
Hi Jock
They are held on with studs.
I have about 80% success rate removing them without trashing the threads, but the studs and nuts are available fairly easily.
Strangely, older ones (04/05 plate etc.) seem to usually undo better than newer ones. No obvious reason. Another wierd FIAT thing, I guess.
As usual, wire brush and a few doses of PlusGas seem to work best.
 
Hi Jock
They are held on with studs.
I have about 80% success rate removing them without trashing the threads, but the studs and nuts are available fairly easily.
Strangely, older ones (04/05 plate etc.) seem to usually undo better than newer ones. No obvious reason. Another wierd FIAT thing, I guess.
As usual, wire brush and a few doses of PlusGas seem to work best.
Thanks irc. So the studs are threaded into the axle plate with the hole in the axle end plate being a smooth bore? Hmm. So there would be no need to undo the two allen bolts which hold the brake back plates to the axle plate. I'm thinking, having got those four large bolts undone the axle plate complete with stub axle and back plate can just be swapped over as a unit? (brake pipes and handbrake cable etc will need to be disconnected of course but does the ABS sensor have to be extracted from it's bore?)
 
Thanks irc. So the studs are threaded into the axle plate with the hole in the axle end plate being a smooth bore? Hmm. So there would be no need to undo the two allen bolts which hold the brake back plates to the axle plate. I'm thinking, having got those four large bolts undone the axle plate complete with stub axle and back plate can just be swapped over as a unit? (brake pipes and handbrake cable etc will need to be disconnected of course but does the ABS sensor have to be extracted from it's bore?)
Hi Jock
This lot were from a 55-plate that seemed to have been parked underwater for most of its life, but mostly good to go again.
In this particular case the ABS sensor cable had been damaged (when the cup failed and the spring made a bid for freedom) so it's coming out, but otherwise it would have stayed.
 

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Hi Jock
This lot were from a 55-plate that seemed to have been parked underwater for most of its life, but mostly good to go again.
In this particular case the ABS sensor cable had been damaged (when the cup failed and the spring made a bid for freedom) so it's coming out, but otherwise it would have stayed.
Thanks for the pics irc. That's very helpful indeed. I think I'm going to wire brush the threads to within an inch of their lives and run a thread nut down the exposed length of them before I start. Lots of plus gas and use my air wrench to work it repeatedly both ways to loosen. The brakes in the second image are slightly different to mine and it's interesting to see them. The self adjuster is different but similar to mine and I kept on seeing it in adverts when I was researching for Becky's pads - which in the end I bought from my local factor. Didn't need to buy self adjusters as the old ones were in good order after freeing up but very interesting to see an illustration of this other type - the shoes themselves look slightly different too.
 
Thanks for the pics irc. That's very helpful indeed. I think I'm going to wire brush the threads to within an inch of their lives and run a thread nut down the exposed length of them before I start. Lots of plus gas and use my air wrench to work it repeatedly both ways to loosen. The brakes in the second image are slightly different to mine and it's interesting to see them. The self adjuster is different but similar to mine and I kept on seeing it in adverts when I was researching for Becky's pads - which in the end I bought from my local factor. Didn't need to buy self adjusters as the old ones were in good order after freeing up but very interesting to see an illustration of this other type - the shoes themselves look slightly different too.
Yep, they do look different. The car seems to have a number of randomly chosen parts on it, very few things match from side to side, and there are signs of a "bush mechanic" having worked on it in the past. Runs well though.
I will replace all of the brake parts anyway on reassembly as they are cheap as chips and I have no idea of their history.
Then I get to make up a load more brake pipes, as most of them are pretty awful. Yippee.
 
Yep, they do look different. The car seems to have a number of randomly chosen parts on it, very few things match from side to side, and there are signs of a "bush mechanic" having worked on it in the past. Runs well though.
I will replace all of the brake parts anyway on reassembly as they are cheap as chips and I have no idea of their history.
Then I get to make up a load more brake pipes, as most of them are pretty awful. Yippee.
Making and fitting new brake pipes is one of my favourite jobs. Not so much the striping off of the old ones though
 
We are off for a 5 day trip to Wales with 5 people in the car.

Fitted roof rails and a roof tray / cage for the luggage. Makes the 2022 Panda Cross look a little more purposeful.
Total cost with roof bars only £125. Roof boxes are soo expensive. This is the cage (not my car though). Will add a photo of it on my car tomorrow.

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Maybe some spot lights in the future :)
 
We are off for a 5 day trip to Wales with 5 people in the car.

Fitted roof rails and a roof tray / cage for the luggage. Makes the 2022 Panda Cross look a little more purposeful.
Total cost with roof bars only £125. Roof boxes are soo expensive. This is the cage (not my car though). Will add a photo of it on my car tomorrow.

View attachment 410947

Maybe some spot lights in the future :)
 

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Mrs J has a birthday coming up so she went, with our daughter and her children - who are visiting for the week - to North Berwick for the day as a treat. They say they are going to swim in the sea! Anyway I stayed home and decided to wash the cars - Bah Humbug. They haven't been washed in some time so I was concerned how much work they might need but they came up pretty good with not too much effort:

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Started at about 09.15 and finished around 14.00. Of course as soon as I'd finished it started to rain and I can see that there's not much by way of a polish/wax protection left now though so I'm going to have a try at doing more than just a quick polish - which is usually what I would do.

I'd greatly appreciate help in choosing products from those of you who know about this sort of thing, so I'm going to start a new thread "Detailing Becky" in the leisure lounge in the hope of attracting more than those who are reading this particular thread.
 
Oh dear I'm going to be exposed here. I have spent years trying just about everything in the sensible price bracket and will checkout and list what I use, Gladly, I have found some very effective things at sensible prices. No longer do you need massive elbow grease. Apart from the clay bar use, but even that is easier than hte old waxes used to be and far more effective than you will believe. Daughters car had one of these coatings applied new and it really wors. From a dealer £500. From eBay £12!
 
PS That red "thing" is not a car. Its a DIRTY GREAT GYNOTMOUS PANTECHNICON!!! Its enormous. You deserve all you get in terms of arm aches from polishing that. Its more like an HGV than a car........ Road tax should be more for huge things like that.......

Pandas on the top!
 
Oh dear I'm going to be exposed here. I have spent years trying just about everything in the sensible price bracket and will checkout and list what I use, Gladly, I have found some very effective things at sensible prices. No longer do you need massive elbow grease. Apart from the clay bar use, but even that is easier than hte old waxes used to be and far more effective than you will believe. Daughters car had one of these coatings applied new and it really wors. From a dealer £500. From eBay £12!
Looking forward to that list.
 
PS That red "thing" is not a car. Its a DIRTY GREAT GYNOTMOUS PANTECHNICON!!! Its enormous. You deserve all you get in terms of arm aches from polishing that. Its more like an HGV than a car........ Road tax should be more for huge things like that.......

Pandas on the top!
Assuming you're referring to my Ibiza? Now that's really got me Hornswaggled! GYNOTMOUS? Never encountered Gynotmous before or could it be that you meant GYNORMOUS? which is defined as "very large in size, quantity or extent". The Ibiza is quantified as a "supermini" and noted for it's efficient and frugal engines - it's a "tiddler" when compared to all the Chelsea tractors that are so commonly seen on the daily school run. Please do feel free to put me out of my misery and enlighten me as to what you mean
 
Assuming you're referring to my Ibiza? Now that's really got me Hornswaggled! GYNOTMOUS? Never encountered Gynotmous before or could it be that you meant GYNORMOUS? which is defined as "very large in size, quantity or extent". The Ibiza is quantified as a "supermini" and noted for it's efficient and frugal engines - it's a "tiddler" when compared to all the Chelsea tractors that are so commonly seen on the daily school run. Please do feel free to put me out of my misery and enlighten me as to what you mean
TOOO big!!! Like my fingers on the keyboard..... To many cylinders to many CCs. Oversized over weight and over here. Pandas on the top!!! OK our Seat is parked out side today and er from Manchester is back for the weekend. I cant deny they are competent machines. We are still on the first clutch, and alternator and 3 of the 4 wheels on the origianl calipers, master cylinders and slave all original. I do need to change the steering oil its never been done and I am sure it would improve things a lot. The gear knob need changing, the gaiter like wise and there is a wear line now on the drivers seat bolster. Door card seals needed and the engine sis now a lot sad, but still running . From the house about 20 yards it looks new. I had her drive Ruby last night when we went out but the old Sear has always been a nice drive and it of course is free. The only other thing thats needed is the gear linkage is stiff. It needs removal and cleaning and it would be fine again unfortunately I cant do this at the moment so I hope it will soldier on until I am able again.

Speaking of key boards our computers have been typing the wrong characters presumably since the latest windows update. Hows yours bee behaving?
 
TOOO big!!! Like my fingers on the keyboard..... To many cylinders to many CCs. Oversized over weight and over here. Pandas on the top!!! OK our Seat is parked out side today and er from Manchester is back for the weekend. I cant deny they are competent machines. We are still on the first clutch, and alternator and 3 of the 4 wheels on the origianl calipers, master cylinders and slave all original. I do need to change the steering oil its never been done and I am sure it would improve things a lot. The gear knob need changing, the gaiter like wise and there is a wear line now on the drivers seat bolster. Door card seals needed and the engine sis now a lot sad, but still running . From the house about 20 yards it looks new. I had her drive Ruby last night when we went out but the old Sear has always been a nice drive and it of course is free. The only other thing thats needed is the gear linkage is stiff. It needs removal and cleaning and it would be fine again unfortunately I cant do this at the moment so I hope it will soldier on until I am able again.

Speaking of key boards our computers have been typing the wrong characters presumably since the latest windows update. Hows yours bee behaving?
Computer seems to be working as normal although there's been a few "strange" things I've noticed - like the background has changed to black when uploading pictures from my digital camera.

Regarding size of the car. I run it because it suits my needs. Frequent need to transport grandchildren and all their paraphernalia, inc scooters, bikes, dolly's pram etc. Collecting DIY "stuff" - Lumber, bags of compost/cement/sand/ballast/etc/etc. The estate car rear end, not much longer than the hatch, makes a real difference. As to the engine - 3 cylinder, 999cc, 95 hp (which is adequate) with good turbo torque. Does 40 to 45 mpg on the sort of journeys I typically do without trying and 60mpg on the nose on our trips to the "deep south". As long as I'm physically capable of doing all the "stuff" I do (which may not be all that longer) I couldn't get by with anything smaller. - or - are you just maybe - trying to get a reaction from me?
 
Computer seems to be working as normal although there's been a few "strange" things I've noticed - like the background has changed to black when uploading pictures from my digital camera.

Regarding size of the car. I run it because it suits my needs. Frequent need to transport grandchildren and all their paraphernalia, inc scooters, bikes, dolly's pram etc. Collecting DIY "stuff" - Lumber, bags of compost/cement/sand/ballast/etc/etc. The estate car rear end, not much longer than the hatch, makes a real difference. As to the engine - 3 cylinder, 999cc, 95 hp (which is adequate) with good turbo torque. Does 40 to 45 mpg on the sort of journeys I typically do without trying and 60mpg on the nose on our trips to the "deep south". As long as I'm physically capable of doing all the "stuff" I do (which may not be all that longer) I couldn't get by with anything smaller. - or - are you just maybe - trying to get a reaction from me?
Ah ha grandchildren.. I can see economy changing your life. Promote teh Panda to No 1 car. Sell Seat to pay for January electricity. Sell grandchildren to pay for more electricity in Feb / March April. If you train them right they can run home after a few days and oyu can sell them again to someone else. My Dad bought a dog from someone like that in the 60's.

995 cc is very big for a car engine. But you will only fall into band 2 of my road tax regime.

Band 1 Two cylinders or less and no more than 875 cc You receive £2000 a year.
Band 2 876 to 1248cc up to 4 cylinders Free
Band 3 Above 1249 and above no limit on cylcinders £10,000 a year

Best no to mention CO2 and emissions (noop being a Twinair)

I met a chap towing a little caravan with a Seat estate like yours a couple of years ago. He was a former Panda driver. I must say I was very impressed with what that car was carrying. I think he was actually living in the caravan full time and so his entire lie was loaded in the car.
 
Oh dear I'm going to be exposed here. I have spent years trying just about everything in the sensible price bracket and will checkout and list what I use, Gladly, I have found some very effective things at sensible prices. No longer do you need massive elbow grease. Apart from the clay bar use, but even that is easier than hte old waxes used to be and far more effective than you will believe. Daughters car had one of these coatings applied new and it really wors. From a dealer £500. From eBay £12!
Still very keen to see your list of "sensible price bracket" products?
 
Still very keen to see your list of "sensible price bracket" products?
Right I have now taken photos. Ive decided just Autobright Clay bar and clay bar mist spray followed by a really good buff up. I have run out of autoglym polish but sometimes follow with this. I am pretty impressed with Diamondbright polymer sealant. The treatment is two parts and it needs a dry hour after the 1st coat then a light buff and the final and the effect is profound. The best straight polish I have used is Armorall shield as the effect lasts much longer than standard car polish. At least 3 months, but is does sometimes leave runs on the paint after rainfalland dont do the screen. Rain and washing restore armoral shine and the runs can be rubbed off with a micro fibre cloth. This can be topped up with their orange liquid wash n wax. The auto bright spray seems not only to be a lubricant for the clay bar but als the most effective shine product I have ever used. NOTHING comes close in my experience and its easy to use and can be used on the entire car, As can and should the Diamondbright be. They said do the whole thing. Diamondbright seals the plastic bits well and my car is still looking new a year after its last treatment. I try and avoid the front screen as I believe its better left totally unmolested. I clean this with Carb and brake cleaner as the best thing to reduce smeary grime. Armorall shield on tired black pastic is one of the best things as a quick and easy restorer. Diamond bright definitely stops insects and bird pohh sticking to the paint to a great extent.

Basically clay block evry inch, glass plastic and all untill its shining and spotless These things remove the lot, residual insects, residual bird pooh, tar, oxidation and bloom and also micro scratches. Its not hard but is a bit slow and tedious. The spray is outright astonishing and the fastest way ever to really shine a car. Once done with clay I usually polish with autoigym too and then I now coat the whole car once a year with Diamond bright. My car was treated with Supaguard when new which is similar but extremely poor in comparison, as well as being outrageously pricey. Supagard do do a very good trye treatment but its expensive and a bottle does not last long. I always wash the wheels and / or wheel trims with either armoral wheel treatment or wonderwheels and find it does reduce brake dust sticking impossibly. On wheels not cleaned for yonks, I have an electric tothbrish for cars cant remember who made it but its 1st rate at wheel cleaning with some chrome polish it will with care shift everything leaving them like new. I follow with Diamond bright spray and wonder wheels or armorall wheel.
 

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