General What did you do with your Panda today?

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General What did you do with your Panda today?

Panda Nut, re your comments on the sump-plug....

They're everywhere; in the RAF they were always known as 'the duty gorilla'
In civil aviation ...they still exist :mad:

I had my car serviced by Cloverleaf Car Services in Gloucester the other week and I knew they had taken the wheels off, so when I got home I had a little check to see just how tight they'd done the wheels up (often done by the duty gorilla with an air-powered gun at many workshops, I've found)
I was really impressed and almost embarrassed for even checking - they were tightened up to perfection; just nicely nipped.

Full marks to them for that!

Mmmm. Gorilla you say... Not exactly what I called them. But may be just, a tad more polite!
 
We went out and bought 2 litres of Tootella Tecnix and 2 litres of Tootella Gear force. Bothe the older two are in for a treat! Decided to be chauffeured by my youngest so arrived unflustered. She decided that the twin air is more fun that the 1.2 but turned down a swap! Looking at the mud and water I think the winter tyres may come out very soon.

My son observed that this is the stupidest name for a product line he can think of. I tend to agree.

The 169 has a bath and looks brand new again. The Autoglym super shine sealant really does a good job - recommended.
 
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Panda Nut, re your comments on the sump-plug....

They're everywhere; in the RAF they were always known as 'the duty gorilla'
In civil aviation ...they still exist :mad:

I had my car serviced by Cloverleaf Car Services in Gloucester the other week and I knew they had taken the wheels off, so when I got home I had a little check to see just how tight they'd done the wheels up (often done by the duty gorilla with an air-powered gun at many workshops, I've found)
I was really impressed and almost embarrassed for even checking - they were tightened up to perfection; just nicely nipped.

Full marks to them for that!

I have a Ford KA with a sump plug that refuses to move ever since it was serviced by a local tyre and exhaust fitters. I have tried every type of tool including those Irwin sockets. Now it is just a chewed up mess. I do the oil changes with a dipstick oil extractor.
 
I have a Ford KA with a sump plug that refuses to move ever since it was serviced by a local tyre and exhaust fitters. I have tried every type of tool including those Irwin sockets. Now it is just a chewed up mess. I do the oil changes with a dipstick oil extractor.

OMG! :eek:

It shouldn't be like that!

I guess when these places employ wannabe mechanics straight from school with minimum engineering skills this is what happens.:mad:

Did you ever try getting some heat into it to undo it?

Even with my vintage cars I've got 80 year-old nuts and bolts undone that appeared rusted solid!
 
OMG! :eek:

It shouldn't be like that!

I guess when these places employ wannabe mechanics straight from school with minimum engineering skills this is what happens.:mad:

Did you ever try getting some heat into it to undo it?

Even with my vintage cars I've got 80 year-old nuts and bolts undone that appeared rusted solid!

The sump is aluminium so I am a bit afraid of breaking it. I have bought a small sharp chisel which I hope will do the job of drifting the plug out. When I get round to it :rolleyes:
 
In aircraft engineering we use a thing called a Dormer Easy Out otherwise known as a 'Dormer screw-extractor'.


There are many cheap copies of this tool but don't risk them - they're more prone to snapping than the Dormer brand and if they do, you can end up with a much bigger problem because they're made out of very hard material and would need to be ground out as they're much too hard to drill - even with cobalt-tipped drills.

However, I'm thinking as I type this, if the sump is alloy I see your concern, but I'd have thought coupled with heat it may just budge the problem could lie when you come to hammer the easy-out into the plug - it could potentially crack the sump

Hmmm tis a dilemma....
 
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From the comfort of my cosy sitting room (central heating on in September - a new record :eek:), watched my Panda slowly disappear up to its axles in water, as the deluge continued for the second day running.

Are you in Norfolk? Although I live in Hertfordshire we own a holiday let at Brancaster Staithe, North Norfolk. Best part of three inches of rain fell there between Thursday night and Saturday night - and horrendous winds too. This saw me drive my 4x4 from Kings Lynn to Brancaster with a 6x5 foot fence panel on the roof to mend the fence at the cottage.
 
The sump is aluminium so I am a bit afraid of breaking it. I have bought a small sharp chisel which I hope will do the job of drifting the plug out. When I get round to it :rolleyes:
With it being aluminium it should respond well to a bit of heat - especially if you have access to the likes of an oxy-acetylene torch which can apply the heat very locally. Because aluminium has a greater coefficient of expansion than the steel the plug is made from you may find it doesn't need to be heated all that much to loosen it's grip enough for a decent tool to remove it. If the end of the plug is hopelessly rounded off I'd go for a Stilson type tool. It will really bite into the metal and give you a decent chance at it. Of course it'll further distort the end of the plug but you'll be fitting a new one so that's of no consequence.

I'd avoid heating the sump to "silly" degrees as you might set fire to the oil inside but, more importantly you are likely to cause localized carburation of the oil which might create hardened particles which then might somewhat block the strainer.

I'm lucky in that I have various welding options and, faced with your dilemma, if I was not managing to shift it I'd be breaking out my MIG/MAG and welding a large nut to the remains of the plug. I find this almost never fails and I think it's largely due to the great heat being applied directly to the plug (or stud, or whatever) causing movement between it and the hole it's screwed into. If you think you're not going to shift it with the tools you have, it might be time to find someone with a welder?

Max mentions Screw extractor tools above. Here's an example: https://uk.rs-online.com/web/p/scre...ncLGfnwFZ6Rw4hX1jwBoCujYQAvD_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds
These are very specialized pieces of kit which work well in a limited set of circumstances and I've used them in the past, at work, with varying success. I own two sets, one being like the above with a reverse thread design and the other being the "American" fluted type. I can probably count the number of times I've used them on the fingers of my hands! In my opinion the big problem with them is that because they have to cut into the existing steel fixing - in your case the plug, you need to drill a hole down the centre of it first - so these tools are made of VERY hard metal. The problem with this is that it makes them pretty brittle. When you are using them it's very easy to snap it off because you get very little "feel" that it's about to give way. If you do snap one in it's hole then you really do have problems because it's so hard you're not going to drill it out with any drill that's either readily available or reasonably priced! So, I think what I'm saying is, they have their place and can be a very useful tool in experienced hands but you may well be disappointed if you've never used one before - When the going gets tough I tend to reach for the welder first!

Finally I'd say there's always more than one way to do something and everyone has their own favourite technique. the above is just my humble offering. Hope it's been helpful? Whatever you end up doing I wish you good luck.
 
Are you in Norfolk? Although I live in Hertfordshire we own a holiday let at Brancaster Staithe, North Norfolk. Best part of three inches of rain fell there between Thursday night and Saturday night - and horrendous winds too. This saw me drive my 4x4 from Kings Lynn to Brancaster with a 6x5 foot fence panel on the roof to mend the fence at the cottage.

I'm surprised you didn't take off, with that sail on the roof! The gusts were very strong. We're in north Suffolk, not far from Southwold. I reckon we've now had over 6" of rain in the last week. All the ditches are overflowing, and our rear pond, which is 40' in diameter, has gone up by over 2'. (Not as bad - yet - as the deluge last autumn, in which that pond overflowed for the first time in over 30 years, but it's still early days...)
 
Talking about Gorillas in the workshop. I may have mentioned this before but, back in the '70's, when I first found myself in charge of a garage workshop I employed an ex HGV mechanic - ever such a nice chap he was. There followed a couple of months of customers complaining that they couldn't undo wheel nuts etc. It all came to a head when he de-shimmed a set of Mini front steering swivels to such an extent that you couldn't steer the vehicle! Unfortunately, for him, that ended his time with us. It really was a shame as he kept us all laughing with his tea time stories, but enough was enough. That experience was the first time I realized how being in management could really "hurt". He was a very popular workshop character and in the pub after work. I liked him personally but he just couldn't adapt to light vehicle duties. His departure didn't go down well in the workshop and it took me several weeks of "PR" to get the workshop fully pulling behind me again.
 
Management can be a lonely place, especially when the people you're managing were previously your mates in the 'other ranks'. You no longer get invited to the pub after work, and when you enter a room, people stop talking. And if you later return to the other ranks (as I did, gratefully, after a gruelling 5-year stint as head of a large University department) things are never quite the same, not least because, as a manager, you often discover stuff about your colleagues that they'd rather you didn't know. Glad to be retired, tbh!
 
Thank you Jock. I might try the heat method. I have a propane blowlamp.
probably worth a try, but don't get too "enthusiastic" will you? remember aluminium gives almost no warning that melting point is being approached - first you know of it is the "shiny" puddle on the floor! Watch out also for electrical insulation and any rubber components which might be damaged or catch fire.

How badly is it mangled it? A picture would be interesting. I'm thinking that if there's not enough to get a decent grip of it won't matter how much you heat it up?

Excuse me for now perhaps stating the obvious but I don't know your skill level so it's probably worth taking on board too that naked flame around fuel and oils is definitely not recommended and many vehicles are now using nylon (plastic) fuel lines and lots of plastic fittings - careful thought is needed about where the "feather" of the flame is going when the main part of it is being played on the seized part. Also, being as how I won't be there to supervise what you are doing - and anyway, I'm a wimpy "feartie" - if you do try this and the car burns down to the tarmac, I'll be very sorry for you, maybe even shed a tear or too, but all consequences will be down to you. If you are not confident of your own ability then you might be better to seek professional assistance? Near me there is an excellent wee engineering company who are primarily marine engineers but happily regrind car crankshafts and surface cylinder heads etc. They would do a job like this for not very much money.
 
Max mentions Screw extractor tools above. Here's an example: https://uk.rs-online.com/web/p/scre...ncLGfnwFZ6Rw4hX1jwBoCujYQAvD_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds
These are very specialized pieces of kit which work well in a limited set of circumstances and I've used them in the past, at work, with varying success. I own two sets, one being like the above with a reverse thread design and the other being the "American" fluted type. I can probably count the number of times I've used them on the fingers of my hands! In my opinion the big problem with them is that because they have to cut into the existing steel fixing - in your case the plug, you need to drill a hole down the centre of it first - so these tools are made of VERY hard metal. The problem with this is that it makes them pretty brittle. When you are using them it's very easy to snap it off because you get very little "feel" that it's about to give way.

This is why I specifically mentioned the Dormer ones; using a very steady but very slowly increasing turning force, you can actually feel them start to twist :eek: It's at that point you stop turning!
Every other brand I have tried have indeed snapped without warning - even top brands like 'Snap-On' have failed in this way.

During one Bahraini summer while outside in the relentless heat and humidity, a colleague snapped a bolt while removing an igniter plug on a jet engine.

Another lad then attempted to remove stub of the bolt but then snapped the easy-out extractor off in the bolt!.

...It was then left to me to use some very small diamond-encrusted grinding tips - a bit like dentists tools - to try and grind out the broken extracor and the bolt.
It literally took me all day to do it - picking bits of metal out of the hole with forceps and a scribe as I made progress, but I saved myself from having to do an engine-change not to mention the fact jet flew the next day!

I arrived back at the apartments that evening in great need of a shower, to find the other engineers and the aircrew sitting around the pool swigging beer, cheering me as I arrived back! :cool::)
 
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probably worth a try, but don't get too "enthusiastic" will you? remember aluminium gives almost no warning that melting point is being approached - first you know of it is the "shiny" puddle on the floor! Watch out also for electrical insulation and any rubber components which might be damaged or catch fire.

How badly is it mangled it? A picture would be interesting. I'm thinking that if there's not enough to get a decent grip of it won't matter how much you heat it up?

Excuse me for now perhaps stating the obvious but I don't know your skill level so it's probably worth taking on board too that naked flame around fuel and oils is definitely not recommended and many vehicles are now using nylon (plastic) fuel lines and lots of plastic fittings - careful thought is needed about where the "feather" of the flame is going when the main part of it is being played on the seized part. Also, being as how I won't be there to supervise what you are doing - and anyway, I'm a wimpy "feartie" - if you do try this and the car burns down to the tarmac, I'll be very sorry for you, maybe even shed a tear or too, but all consequences will be down to you. If you are not confident of your own ability then you might be better to seek professional assistance? Near me there is an excellent wee engineering company who are primarily marine engineers but happily regrind car crankshafts and surface cylinder heads etc. They would do a job like this for not very much money.

It is badly mangled. I think it is made of quite soft mild steel which is why it chewed up so easily. I will try to get a picture today.
 
This is why I specifically mentioned the Dormer ones; using a very steady but very slowly increasing turning force, you can actually feel them start to twist :eek: It's at that point you stop turning!
Every other brand I have tried have indeed snapped without warning - even top brands like 'Snap-On' have failed in this way.

During one Bahraini summer while outside in the relentless heat and humidity, a colleague snapped a bolt while removing an igniter plug on a jet engine.

Another lad then attempted to remove stub of the bolt but then snapped the easy-out extractor off in the bolt!.

...It was then left to me to use some very small diamond-encrusted grinding tips - a bit like dentists tools - to try and grind out the broken extracor and the bolt.
It literally took me all day to do it - picking bits of metal out of the hole with forceps and a scribe as I made progress, but I saved myself from having to do an engine-change not to mention the fact jet flew the next day!

I arrived back at the apartments that evening in great need of a shower, to find the other engineers and the aircrew sitting around the pool swigging beer, cheering me as I arrived back! :cool::)
Yup, Dormer - Dormer Pramet as I believe they now are? - are the absolute dogs whatsits in terms of quality and I agree with all you are saying here but I would argue that you are only going to develop that "feel" for when "twist" becomes "snap" with experience of using the tools?

D'you know?, I must be one of the few mechanics I know who has never bought a Snap On tool! Most of my stuff was Britool (the high quality old stuff - I believe today's Britool tools are a somewhat different "animal"?) with a sprinkling of better quality German stuff mixed in.

Here's a wee "pick and mix" from the tobacco tin which holds my screw extractors:

P1090383.JPG

The ones on the left are indeed Dormers which feature the usual left handed twist. The fluted ones on the right are a set of Protos I bought when I went tool shopping with a chap I know in Southern Maryland, a very interesting fellow who was my daughter's neighbour and was rebuilding a Mk1 Corvette. I spent many happy hours neglecting my grandchildren helping him in his lovely large garage/workshop. Oh how I envy him that garage!

Here's a close up of the Protos:

P1090384.JPG

As you can see they have no reverse thread. As I'm sure you'll know Max H, but for the benefit of others, you use them by drilling a hole into the stud in just the same way as with the Dormers (better quality tools of this type will have the recommended drill size on their shank). Then you tap the tool into the hole with a hammer until it's flutes bite into the stud. The only comparison I would make between them, and both work well enough, is that if you have a very tight stud then I find the reverse screw type (like the Dormers) will screw themselves more and more deeply into the hole. The unfortunate outcome of this is that it spreads the stud and tends to lock it even more firmly into the hole! rather like a Timesert. The fluted design doesn't do this and I think I slightly prefer them - not much in it though.

I once made one out of an old thread tap to remove a bit of broken screw from a carburettor. It's the one at the bottom of the 1st picture - here's a close up, including the bit of stud:

P1090385.JPG

Must be over 30 years ago, wonder why I kept the bit of stud? In fact that was a one off, I've never used it on another one.

I also have a couple of things that look like the end of a reverse cutting drill - there's one at the bottom of the first picture. The idea is that if you have a damaged Allen screw head (or similar) the reverse twist will bite into the head and get enough of a grip to unscrew it. I picked them up at an autojumble. No idea of the make. They were in a tatty cardboard box and look brand new. In fact they still do as I've never had reason to use them!

Interesting to hear of your Your Bahraini experience I've, luckily, never had to deal with this type of scenario. I've also heard of spark erosion but I've never seen it in use. I can well imagine how slow and laborious grinding it out must have been to say nothing of the heat, sounds like my idea of hell. My brother in law was a pilot with BEA (Trident and BAC111's mostly) who in later years saw his time out with Cyprus Airways largely as a training captain, so they lived in Cyprus. We had some really lovely family holidays out there but I remember well the blast of heat which hit you as you exited the aircraft to walk down the steps! After that we mostly went in spring or autumn. We've also spent quite a bit of time in Southern Maryland where, in the height of summer, you either live indoors, in the car, or wandering around Malls, all air conditioned, because it's just so darned hot outside. Can't even begin to imagine what working outside, probably on a concrete apron? in the height of summer in somewhere like Bahrain would be like! Hope you were quickly supplied with a beer that evening?
 
Pugglt Auld Jock - what an excellent article!

I've never seen the Protos type extractor before - they look very er, businesslike!

You're right about feeling those Dormers start to twist - it's down to experience. I too have never bought any Snap-On tools - we have them almost exclusively at work and I think they're the most overrated tools on the planet. Most aircraft engineers choose Facom or believe it or not - Halfords professional range when they buy their own tools. Lifetime guarantee on the Halfords stuff just as with Snap-On but at a fraction of the cost. I don't even like much of the Snap-On kit to be honest.

The lad that snapped-off the easy-out in the igniter in Bahrain refused to go near the jet after that little drama for fear of wrecking the threads in the engine casing - which would have effectively written the engine off. The aircraft in question was a BAe 146 from what was left of the Royal Flight at RAF Northolt. And yes I was very quickly rewarded with ice-cold beers when I got back that evening!

Working in Bahrain was something I got used to - the heat I could manage; but the humidity was outrageous and much harder to deal with. If it wasn't for air conditioning in the apartment I'd never have got dry after a shower!

Working outside you got used to the feel of your continually soaked overalls from the sweat, and you could never drink enough water to keep up with the loss of fluids which was really odd.
In summer at night the heat and humidity was still the same - you just didnt get cooked in the sun, so if there were major jobs like an engine change, it was done at night, albeit no cooler than the daytime - you just didn't get burnt.
The other challenge was sandstorms. Driving in these was unbelievable! Visibility was significantly less than a real pea-souper fog that we get here, and of course, cars there aren't fitted with fog-lights so everyone puts the hazard-lights on which in itself made things even more disorientating - not to mention the driving styles in the Middle East leave a lot to be desired at the best of times! It was interesting to say the least!

A couple fo pics - one from Bahrain during a more mild sandstorm and the other in Al-Udeid Qatar - not so much humidity there - just scorching heat! Both taken some 6 or 7 years ago...
 

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Pugglt Auld Jock - what an excellent article!

I've never seen the Protos type extractor before - they look very er, businesslike!

You're right about feeling those Dormers start to twist - it's down to experience. I too have never bought any Snap-On tools - we have them almost exclusively at work and I think they're the most overrated tools on the planet. Most aircraft engineers choose Facom or believe it or not - Halfords professional range when they buy their own tools. Lifetime guarantee on the Halfords stuff just as with Snap-On but at a fraction of the cost. I don't even like much of the Snap-On kit to be honest.

The lad that snapped-off the easy-out in the igniter in Bahrain refused to go near the jet after that little drama for fear of wrecking the threads in the engine casing - which would have effectively written the engine off. The aircraft in question was a BAe 146 from what was left of the Royal Flight at RAF Northolt. And yes I was very quickly rewarded with ice-cold beers when I got back that evening!

Working in Bahrain was something I got used to - the heat I could manage; but the humidity was outrageous and much harder to deal with. If it wasn't for air conditioning in the apartment I'd never have got dry after a shower!

Working outside you got used to the feel of your continually soaked overalls from the sweat, and you could never drink enough water to keep up with the loss of fluids which was really odd.
In summer at night the heat and humidity was still the same - you just didnt get cooked in the sun, so if there were major jobs like an engine change, it was done at night, albeit no cooler than the daytime - you just didn't get burnt.
The other challenge was sandstorms. Driving in these was unbelievable! Visibility was significantly less than a real pea-souper fog that we get here, and of course, cars there aren't fitted with fog-lights so everyone puts the hazard-lights on which in itself made things even more disorientating - not to mention the driving styles in the Middle East leave a lot to be desired at the best of times! It was interesting to say the least!

A couple fo pics - one from Bahrain during a more mild sandstorm and the other in Al-Udeid Qatar - not so much humidity there - just scorching heat! Both taken some 6 or 7 years ago...
So pleased to see I'm not alone in being a "Snap On Less" engineer! I wouldn't presume to say they are "bad" tools but I think they don't truly deserve the, almost mystical, reputation they have. In the motor trade it's almost like a "qualification of credibility" that you have a large wheeled tool cabinet with at least one top box displaying at least one snap on logo! It makes me laugh when, sometimes, maybe half of the drawers are almost empty! I also find it just a little disturbing to hear of the pretty enormous debt that some of the younger lads take on to stock up with this brand of tool. Yes they are good quality but I worked all my earlier years out of 4 cantilever tool boxes mounted on an ex hospital tea trolley - which I painted post office red! They were filled with a fair selection of the crappy tools I'd acquired as I grew up which I slowly replaced with better quality stuff. I did spend real money on the Britool stuff but never took anything on credit and I must have been at least 8 years into my chosen career before I bought my first "proper" cabinet. I'm definitely not what you would call a "Tool Snob" - I just like a good quality product no matter what it's brand.

Halfords Professional/Expert/Advance branded tools. Yes, I agree, for the money I think they are almost unbeatable. Some of the Draper Expert range are pretty good too. I have a few of both brands myself and, being now retired, find they do the job just fine. Most notably I bought both of the Halfords Vortex go through (pass thru, as the Yanks call them) socket sets (Draper do the same tools but I have a Halfords Trade card so get extra discount) after seeing them in the States (over there they are Gear Wrench branded) These tools are, I'm pretty sure, actually manufactured by Apex Tooling. They do not have a solid "T" or universal handle, coming only with a ratchet which worried me at first as ratchets tend to pack in if you really lean on them. However I've tackled a couple of really tight fixings and all seems fine so far. Of course I've got that lifetime cover if needed and I would tend to default to my Britool sockets unless I need the "Go Through" function.

Talking about being permanently soaked with sweat. I think the nearest I've been to that was a few years ago when my sister's daughter got married. They live in "small town USA" about 2 hours drive west of Boston Mass. Very cold with lots of snow in the winter - Very "Bing Crosby White Christmas", and swelteringly hot with high humidity in the summer. The wedding was in August and by golly it was hot. Being Scottish our contingent were all in the Kilt. Thank goodness we elected to go with open Gillie shirts though and not the full black jacket etc. The perspiration was running down my front and back and collecting in the waistband of the kilt. By the time evening came the kilt was so wet it looked as if I'd just jumped in a river! I sent it to the dry cleaners twice before wearing it again!
 
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