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Old 07-03-2016   #31
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Re: Tyre rotation

Quote Originally Posted by jrkitching View Post
.....if you had a flat right now, and had to change it at the roadside using only what's in the car right now, how would you cope? Is there anything you could do in preparation to make the experience less unpleasant?
Should have added previously that, in my experience, the only safe place to pull off the road and change a puncture may well be on a slope or on soft ground. I always carry a couple of wooden wheel chocks (one of them was supplied in the toolkitof a 2CV that I ran for a few years in the 1980s) and a small plank (approx 400x125x20mm) to put under the jack.
Quote Originally Posted by portland_bill View Post
From your answer it would appear that you've not had the need to remove wheels fromyour Fiat yet. You'll find that it has one or two small studs to locate thewheel, removing the need for your rod.
Having run a Panda Cross and a more recent Panda 4x4 MJ for a total of around 90k miles over fairly rugged terrain, and fitted wheels quite a number of times during those years (punctures, front-rear swaps, braking system maintenance, shock absorbers, drop links, etc), I do have relevant experienceof those models. (And of numerous light and heavy vehicles from different manufacturers, but not of any other Fiats).

What you have written applies to steel wheels. On most vehicles, steel wheels can be easily aligned on those two pegs because:
(1) the holes in the wheel are machined to be a fairly close fit over the pegs;
(2) the person fitting the wheel can see the pegs (through the holes);
(3) steel wheels are relatively thin, and the pegs usually protrude sufficiently to support the wheel while it is being pushed towards the hub.

None of the above applies to alloy wheels because:
(1) they do not normally have machined holes for location on the pegs, just a recess on the inner side of the casting;
(2) there are no “through holes”, so the person fitting the wheel cannot see the pegs.
(3) the recesses are large in relation to the peg diameter, and therefore do not support or align the wheel on the hub (even when the wheel is fully seated, it is not in contact with the pegs);

The Panda 4x4 alloy wheel has a large primary recess, and then a slightly tapered blind hole. Diameter of the blind hole is about double that of the peg, so there is not the nice neat location that would occur when fitting steel wheels. The depth of the primary recess is only about 1mm less than the width of the hub flange, and that is why the wheel butts up against the hub before the pegs can provide any support.

My picture isout of focus because it was grabbed from the background of a photo taken awhile ago for another purpose, but the shape and size of the recesses in the casting are visible.
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