General Buying my first panda

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General Buying my first panda

RJW

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Hi

All going well, I am about to purchase a E-reg 1987 Panda 4x4 off my neighbour after many years of expressing an interest. The long term plan is to take this car to the in-laws in Sweden, to use as a runabout when we visit, including trips to the north in the winter, etc. I also have a bit of dream of driving to the Saraha and this could be the car to do it in, if it turns out to be reliable. From what I’ve read, the scope for budget 4x4ing with this car seem endless. I have seen many in the Italian alps in winter, where they are clearly loved. I am very excited, but there are a few questions that I would love answers for.

1) The current owner is always messing with the rear drum brakes, which stick. My plan involves the car standing for a couple of months at a time, so it’s likely I’ll experience the same problems. So I was thinking of replacing old for new parts which will require less maintenance. What are parts that will I need?

2) There is a creaking sound coming from the area of the offside back wheel when the car corners. This can also be made to happen by standing on the door sill. Is this something to do with the springs? What can be done about it?

3) Apparently, it has been years since the current owner has engaged four wheel drive. This feature is essential to my plan. Given that it has not been used for ages, is there anything that I should check or do before I engage this? I wouldn’t want to break the gear box on the test drive or worse still after I have bought the car.

4) Are there supposed to be some gaiters on the universal joint of the drive shaft, because there isn’t on this car?

5) I will need to fit roof bars to take a top box and or skis. Given the age of the car, where should I get this, what makes are best and what am I likely to pay?

6) I will need to replace the tyres for winter use out there. Current tyres are 145/80 R13. I have two choices: Either buy a complete set of rims and fit dedicated winter tyres (these have little metal studs in them). Change them over in winter and use the current wheels in summer. This is a common practice out there. Or fit all weather (is that the same as mud and snow?) tyres to the current rims. Are either of these tyre types available. What make/model should I search for, where should I search and what sort of price am I likely to pay?

7) Is there anything else that I should look out for on the car (known problems, etc)

I hope there is someone out there that can help with these questions. Best wishes :) .
 
Hello, good to see another (soon to be) panda owner (y).

1: If you want to replace the rear brakes its best to get new brake shoes, cylinders, and drums, and remember to copper grease all the handbrake linkages behind the brake back plate, also if its possible you should leave the handbrake OFF when you put it in storage (and take the battery off too).

2: My old panda 4x4 had the same creaking noise as did my panda selecta, but the noise disappeared from the selecta when i replaced the rear shock absorbers :)

3: Sorry i cant help with information of the 4x4 system, but i'm sure someone will be along soon who can.

4: Sorry cant help with this either :eek:

5: Thule roof bars are the best for the job, but dont forget Paddy Hopkirk which also make a good roofbar :)

6: For a place like Sweden, i would recommend getting a set on normal tyres for Summer, and a set of Winter (spiked) tyres for when the going gets tough. For all round tyres try Pirelli Euro 2500 tyres (mud and snow rated), or Colway tyres (used by many of the 4x4 owners on this forum)

7: Dont forget to get an oil change with an oil that can withstand very low temperatures :cool: :)
 
Hi RJW... firstly, the petrol consumption is higher thanmost expect for a 1litre engine... but not bad just not as high as you'd expect. to balance this parts are cheap and pretty easy to get hold of.

RJW said:
1) The current owner is always messing with the rear drum brakes, which stick. My plan involves the car standing for a couple of months at a time, so it’s likely I’ll experience the same problems. So I was thinking of replacing old for new parts which will require less maintenance. What are parts that will I need?

All brakes stick if left long enough... a sharp knock is a common remedy, but also a wise idea is to issue new shoes and drums which should set you back about 25 quid. fitting is interesting but a novice with time should be able to do it in a hour or so with the right tools (pliers, flat head screw driver & lots of swearing).

RJW said:
2) There is a creaking sound coming from the area of the offside back wheel when the car corners. This can also be made to happen by standing on the door sill. Is this something to do with the springs? What can be done about it?
sounds like old rubber or dampers...

RJW said:
3) Apparently, it has been years since the current owner has engaged four wheel drive. This feature is essential to my plan. Given that it has not been used for ages, is there anything that I should check or do before I engage this? I wouldn’t want to break the gear box on the test drive or worse still after I have bought the car.

shouldn't be a problem, give it a little consideration and check the linkages. if the box is there it can be worked on.

RJW said:
4) Are there supposed to be some gaiters on the universal joint of the drive shaft, because there isn’t on this car?

No gaitors on the main axle... only at the wheels and front drive wheel drive shafts

RJW said:
5) I will need to fit roof bars to take a top box and or skis. Given the age of the car, where should I get this, what makes are best and what am I likely to pay?

well, that's a pretty broad question... you'll run out of money before answers... I can't recommend using the original equipment however as it was poo. the second generation roof bars are very solid though but involve drilling holes through the roof. and the 3rd generation 4x4 roofrack is very solid but you are only going to be able to hold of one on the continent... because the car wasn't sold in the UK by that time.

RJW said:
6) I will need to replace the tyres for winter use out there. Current tyres are 145/80 R13. I have two choices: Either buy a complete set of rims and fit dedicated winter tyres (these have little metal studs in them). Change them over in winter and use the current wheels in summer. This is a common practice out there. Or fit all weather (is that the same as mud and snow?) tyres to the current rims. Are either of these tyre types available. What make/model should I search for, where should I search and what sort of price am I likely to pay?

well unless you are shooting straight across to Sweden this winter i'd give the spikes a miss, there's not much call for them in the UK... a decent set of tyres should cost less then 100.00, and be suitable for road and off-road use.

RJW said:
7) Is there anything else that I should look out for on the car (known problems, etc)
Rust... check the areas just in front of the rear springs and across the back of the boot floor. check the bottom of the black area just by the bottom front of the rear window for stress fractures. Check the rubber bushes for splitting from age etc... basically it's not going to anywhere near a mint condition car... so if you are going to buy it place 200 on one side for new spares and possible more than that if the bodywork is looking bad... if you see rust near the main suspensionwalk away quickly unless you are feeling rich.

cheers

Tony M
 
Just to add to Tony's list as far as the brake & handbrake goes they may be fine but if you know your going to be leaving the car for some time either place the car on axle stands so the tyres don't get brittle & crack on an ice laden ground for weeks, or chalk the wheels put into first or reverse gear & leave the handbrake off BUT not if it's on a road.
 
RJW said:
4) Are there supposed to be some gaiters on the universal joint of the drive shaft, because there isn’t on this car?

There are none on the rear 2 joints (but check they havo no play), but the front 2 joints are CV joints and do have boots, which need to be in good nick. These had broken up on mine and then let water and crud in which will knacker the joint (like one of mine). They're available from Fiat (£15 ea.) and reasonably easy to replace with the front section of propshaft off the car. Otherwise a new joint is something like £110 (!!), which is why mine is living with a crappy one for the time being....
 
Many thanks to Christopher, Tony, Alan & Totnesmonster. What a great response. It's nice to know that there are so many knowledgable people out there willing to help an unknowledgable one! I'll keep you posted. If anyone else wants to add to what has already been written then please do so.
 
Hic ...whats that alan ?,im struggling to read this and put the lid back on the bottle !
at least i only paid £82 for ODY off e-bay so they sort of 'ish' even themselves out.:)
 
Alan.D said:
Was it not a wine fueled purchase :) Kind of in the same area that Jim's idea's come from :D

I've been really good recently!

...other than in the daft ideas department:eek:

Buy 100 pound car...

Distroy 400 pound car to make 100 pound car drive

Drive to Sahara

Drive to San Francisco

Sail from Belast to Scotland in now worthless 400 pound car... (without ferry)

Ermm... did I miss anything?

Jim
 
e505jpy said:
I've been really good recently!

...other than in the daft ideas department:eek:

Buy 100 pound car...

Distroy 400 pound car to make 100 pound car drive

Drive to Sahara

Drive to San Francisco

Sail from Belast to Scotland in now worthless 400 pound car... (without ferry)

Ermm... did I miss anything?

Jim
did you mention the red one?
 
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