General FAO Tony M
- Thread starter Alan.D
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General FAO Tony M
the bit that is coloured red... i snapped because i hadn't lined it up properly... came back tonight and it slotted straight on
i guess it was 20 minutes after i should have packed up for the day.
i tightened it in place like you said using the 1 bolt/nut... and it seems secure enough for the moment... I will stick some liquid metal on it later once i have more of the engine together.
i guess it was 20 minutes after i should have packed up for the day.i tightened it in place like you said using the 1 bolt/nut... and it seems secure enough for the moment... I will stick some liquid metal on it later once i have more of the engine together.
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Sorry to butt into your private conversation guys. If you need a distributor body I have one you can have. I just changed mine because the ignition module on it doesn't work but presumably that's easily changed? Mines breakerless by the way.
Let me know if you want it Tony. I'll be travelling down the M6 from J38 to J9 on Saturday evening if that's any good for you.
Let me know if you want it Tony. I'll be travelling down the M6 from J38 to J9 on Saturday evening if that's any good for you.
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The one shown is spare as well, was going to give it to Jim but it was the wrong one so didn't bother so take your pick
it's not often you think getting distributor bodies thrown at you is a desirable thing... but today it's quite a refreshing thing.
I figure the internals are all swappable fairly easily... all i have to worry about is the hole for the control unit.
Are they both the same item?
I figure the internals are all swappable fairly easily... all i have to worry about is the hole for the control unit.
Are they both the same item?
No worries Tony. PM me.
ok, got the distributor off Rick (default) and have stuck the vacuum advance and the cap onto it aswell as the electronic thing that rides piggy back...
no spark... engine turns over and smell of petrol from the exhaust.
I'm guessing that the reason your distributor didn't work Rick has something to do with the internals rather than the worn wiring which you suspected. I will pop everything back on the one with the damaged casing and try again soon... I have had a long couple of days with the car and I thought we both could do with a break.
no spark... engine turns over and smell of petrol from the exhaust.
I'm guessing that the reason your distributor didn't work Rick has something to do with the internals rather than the worn wiring which you suspected. I will pop everything back on the one with the damaged casing and try again soon... I have had a long couple of days with the car and I thought we both could do with a break.
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Did you plug in the electric bit?
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That would def not help get some spark
ok, double checked that... and yes it was connected
however I had a good look at the engine.
3 things struck me..
1. small black wide with a box clip at the end isn't connect... looks like either starter or alternator.
2. two wires coming out from bottom of the heater area just behind the spare wheel. grey wire had the connected striped off it in the past, but i don't think this is a big thing.
3. and this is the biggy, when i turn the ignition to the on position (not the start position) the clock stops. which would indicate that the current is fighting itself somewhere. also the internal cabin light is really dim...
ok, that's it
however I had a good look at the engine.
3 things struck me..
1. small black wide with a box clip at the end isn't connect... looks like either starter or alternator.
2. two wires coming out from bottom of the heater area just behind the spare wheel. grey wire had the connected striped off it in the past, but i don't think this is a big thing.
3. and this is the biggy, when i turn the ignition to the on position (not the start position) the clock stops. which would indicate that the current is fighting itself somewhere. also the internal cabin light is really dim...
ok, that's it
Have you got the engine properly earthed?
If it is the dizzy I'm sorry. I assumed it was the ignition module. At least you should have a spare usable one and vacuum advance unit anyway. If you don't get a spark after changing the dizzy then you may not have reconnected something or connected something wrongly.
This may be obvious but you did put the HT ignition lead back on as well?
By the way, the wire you refer to in point 1 attaches to a spade connector on the alternator near the thick red wire.
If it is the dizzy I'm sorry. I assumed it was the ignition module. At least you should have a spare usable one and vacuum advance unit anyway. If you don't get a spark after changing the dizzy then you may not have reconnected something or connected something wrongly.
This may be obvious but you did put the HT ignition lead back on as well?
By the way, the wire you refer to in point 1 attaches to a spade connector on the alternator near the thick red wire.
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I agree with Rick it's the alternatorTony M said:
Those wires should go to the coil packTony M said:
Why did I leave you to do the wiringTony M said:
I would agree with earth as well did you connect the large black earth wire to the gearbox? one of the starter motor bolts. BUT after asking about all the wiring being off before dropping the engine & box the main earth was streched cause they weren't :bang: I wonder if it needs replaced?BTW do you want that spare dizzy I had?
default_user said:
i removed the bracket that was there for some cabling or something but is nolonger used which also has a bracket to secure the water house past the starter. bolted onto the gearbox as it was a accessible bolt and onto the correct bit of the engine bay... earthed!
default_user said:
After my last visit i don't think it is the distributor... that wouldn't cause probblems with the interior light. or stop the clock when the key is turned to the 'on' position.
default_user said:
yup, i kept a small clip on it so i can tell which one is the correct one... double checked the connection at both ends.
default_user said:
I will have to take the carb off i think... I can't see under the manifold at the moment.
Alan.D said:
ok i will sort out a connection thing sometime soon-ish.
Alan.D said:Why did I leave you to do the wiring
Ok the earth cable is a possibility, but i think if it was that damaged then i would get the same result as having it not attached... and that is nothing at all... no lights on the dash, i did that first... then remember i had left it off.i will try cleaning off the connections tomorrow and applying a little copper grease. you never mentioned the earth cable when i asked what i should disconnect... just the alternator and the starter... which i did
.I don't know yet Alan, i hope not really... i will sort the other points out and then try once again.Alan.D said:
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Just hang on on the coil pack bit as they may go to the electronic part of the dizzy as well, or one to pack & one to dizzy I'll have a look and let you know.
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that's alright Alan, i had already realized you must be wrong about that... as they are both held together by the rubber cover... and i definately didn't put them in there after we dropped the engine.Alan.D said:
OK, so tonights exploration came back with the following results... the electrics are completely wonky. I turn the key and i get the engine turning over but nothign else. no sparks... infact no lights hazards lights... nothing really... I suspect that the earth cable is shagged. i do get a battery warning light and the oil warning light when the key is 'on'.
thanks for the picture of the coil, that's pretty useful... I think the one that we (i) stripped accidentely will be the one that doesn't go onto the coil. the other has got a bullet type connector attached... I will check it out tomorrow.
cheers again
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Tony M said:
If any of the coil wiring isn't right you won't get a spark
