I meant to say, try using metal cable ties for the leaf springs (so good that an old car of mine even passed its mot with those 
).
).
General New Sisley owner, old Sisley problems
- Thread starter Tony M
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General New Sisley owner, old Sisley problems
I'd rather get a new leaf spring or second hand unbroken one at least... just one less thing to worry about.christopher watson said:I meant to say, try using metal cable ties for the leaf springs (so good that an old car of mine even passed its mot with those
Ah! thought it was something different
ok, here's a good question... the rear engine mounting point... doesn't tighten it just seems to turn.
I am right about the 2 following points...?
1. it's not not meant to turn freely 360 degrees...
2. it's a complete git to get to the top. without dropping the whole mount...
as usual answers on a postcard please.
I am right about the 2 following points...?
1. it's not not meant to turn freely 360 degrees...
2. it's a complete git to get to the top. without dropping the whole mount...
as usual answers on a postcard please.
The mount is held in place by 2 x 13mm bolts not the single one, you have to remove the mount to tighten that one. And it's the gearbox mount I think that you can get to it through the floor but not sure on that one.
A simple way to remove the mount is jack under the gearbox undo the three 10mm bolts on the side of the box then the two mount bolts
A simple way to remove the mount is jack under the gearbox undo the three 10mm bolts on the side of the box then the two mount bolts
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No way Jose... i had a look at that but the mount is screwed to a sub plate which is welded onto the floor of the passenger foot well. There is a small round hole at the back of that plate but it's about 12mm diameter. so you wouldn't be able to get a spanner big enough through there... I was pretty sure that the 2 bolts were the only way to the top of the mount...but i thought i would check first.Alan.D said:
yup. that sounds good... looking under there made me really consider taking it for a proper engine bay and underneath valeting... grease, oil and sand... looks to be about 2mm on everything around the gearbox.Alan.D said:
checked the split pin on that rod junction... it's theres... but there's an awful lot of movement in the piece it connects to.
Ok, i have spent a few long hours scrapping away the oily sand from around the plug holes and only dropped a glob into one piston... which considering is bloody good... i have order the compressed air but more importantly i have ordered a minivac... which i will modify (i foresee plastic straws and selotape) to get down to the piston heads. my wife had been after one of those recently anyway...
I tried crankingover the pistons without the plugs in... and it had pretty much no effect. the sand it too saturated with old crud.
the next big question... can anyone think of a really good reason not to take the inlet manifold off so that i can get better visibility and more light into the chambers?
I tried crankingover the pistons without the plugs in... and it had pretty much no effect. the sand it too saturated with old crud.
the next big question... can anyone think of a really good reason not to take the inlet manifold off so that i can get better visibility and more light into the chambers?
Yes........until it's cleaned even more crud will fall into the cylinder or plug ports
I have cleaned the block and number one looks like it's from a showroom car... the rest are just a little grubby.Alan.D said:
that can of gas was quite useful for cleaning the liquid propellant (turn it upside down and you get the condensed gas) was really good at freezing and doing a bicarbonate of soda job on the metal... the dirt sort of froze and ping-ed off. then you turn it back upright and blow what debris there is away. not bad at all.
Tony we need Pics
