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Old 04-01-2004   #1
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1986 Panda 4x4 queries

Hi All,

I have just removed the gearbox from my 1986 Panda 4x4 to change clutch. Gear box removed today, albeit with a slight struggle getting it onto the floor. I have left the engine in place, and this does not leave much room between end of gearbox and control arm / radius rod to free and drop the box - will remove these before re-fitting.

Queries found during removal of bits and bobs to get gearbox out:-

Are the nylon gear lever link rod ball ends replaceable?
Is the inboard rubber bush replaceable on the suspension control arms?
Is the ball joint to the hub carrier / control arm replaceable.
Is the bolt between radius rod and control arm a taper fit?
Porters Manua does not appear to go into such detail on these items.

In passing, I am changing the clutch (in since car bought new in 1986), and after 120K miles started to slip occasionally. Also my flywheel teeth have stripped, making starting difficult. On removal, the clutch plate was not particularly badly worn, but appeared to have oil impregnation. The clutch plate was also in good condition. There are no apparent leaks from the crankshaft rear oil seal. The inside of the bell housing was coated in dirty black oil. Culprit appears to be the flywheel cover plate, which has a breather hole near the bottom, which is located just under the offside inboard drive shaft gaiter (which is worn and slightly leaking oil). I summised that this leaking oil has somehow been 'sucked' into the bell housing through the flywheel cover plate breather? I will install a home made rubber cover over the end of this before refitting. Intention to overhaul drive shaft gaiters etc.

So armed with a s/h flywheel, a new clutch, bearing and plate, I just need to put the whole lot back together.

This will be phase 1 of a complete overhaul of the car.

I am taking pictures with digi camera and keeping a written log of how I am changing the clutch, as I proceed. I intend to knock up a CD with pictures and text when I have finished - may help some other poor soul in the future.

Regards,

Tom

tjs
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Old 05-01-2004   #2
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Quote Quote:
Originally posted by waddow

Are the nylon gear lever link rod ball ends replaceable?
Is the inboard rubber bush replaceable on the suspension control arms?
Is the ball joint to the hub carrier / control arm replaceable.
Is the bolt between radius rod and control arm a taper fit?
Porters Manua does not appear to go into such detail on these items.

In passing, I am changing the clutch (in since car bought new in 1986), and after 120K miles started to slip occasionally. Also my flywheel teeth have stripped, making starting difficult. On removal, the clutch plate was not particularly badly worn, but appeared to have oil impregnation. The clutch plate was also in good condition. There are no apparent leaks from the crankshaft rear oil seal. The inside of the bell housing was coated in dirty black oil. Culprit appears to be the flywheel cover plate, which has a breather hole near the bottom, which is located just under the offside inboard drive shaft gaiter (which is worn and slightly leaking oil). I summised that this leaking oil has somehow been 'sucked' into the bell housing through the flywheel cover plate breather? I will install a home made rubber cover over the end of this before refitting. Intention to overhaul drive shaft gaiters etc.
AFAIK

the inboard rubber bush isn't a separate item.
the ball joint is available
I can't remember how the radius arm fits - Haynes suggests a splitter, so yes: tapered.


Your oil leak may have come from above: the camshaft cover, and distributor "O" ring, both dribble down that way.


With a bit of luck Pandaman Paul may be able to help with specific part numbers/availability as individual items from his parts CD.

The driveshaft gaiters are worth replacing with new: they're relatively cheap, and when they fail, and all the oil comes out of the gearbox... well, gearbox noises and failure are just a matter of time.


Looking forward to the pix.


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Old 05-01-2004   #3
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Quote Quote:
Originally posted by John H
With a bit of luck Pandaman Paul may be able to help with specific part numbers/availability as individual items from his parts CD.
Of course I can. :)

Waddow, if you can send me a PM with your VIN number, I'll have a look for you and post back here.

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Old 06-01-2004   #4
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I recently replaced the hub carrier ball joints on my 4x4, although Fiat don't sell them separately they are available through motor factors for about 12 quid each and are quite easy remove if you take out the difficult to see spring clip first. (I didn't and wasted 2 hours on the first one ,the second one took 10 mins )
If you get to the point of removing the hub carriers it makes sense to fit new driveshaft gaiters (where neccesary) at the same time.
Good luck. Brian
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Old 06-01-2004   #5
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So how did you manage to separate the balljoints, Brian?


Steve - [the barking is having a rest]

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Old 06-01-2004   #6
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I used a splitter to remove the trailing arm and then the balljoints just knocked out with a small club hammer, having removed the aforementioned spring clip.It is fair to say that i did have the hub carriers removed and on a concrete floor so access was not a problem
Brian
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Old 09-01-2004   #7
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Waddow - I've sent you a PM with the information.

Hope it helps ;)

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Old 11-01-2004   #8
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Snip

Gizmo 05/01/04

I recently replaced the hub carrier ball joints on my 4x4, although Fiat don't sell them separately they are available through motor factors for about 12 quid each and are quite easy remove if you take out the difficult to see spring clip first. (I didn't and wasted 2 hours on the first one ,the second one took 10 mins )


<font color="black"></font id="black">Could you please enlighten me as to which Motor Factor you obtained hub carrier ball joints from,

Regards,
Tom

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Old 13-01-2004   #9
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Hi
It was camberley auto factors in reading but i only went there because they had them on the shelf on a sunday morning and all the others i called needed 2-3 days to get them .
I didn't come across anyone who said they were not available separately except Fiat
Regards Brian
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Old 18-02-2004   #10
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Hi all,

Update so far:-

Flywheel and clutch renewed, and gearbox replaced.
Overhauled all gear lever remote linkages (no parts needed), and now like new.
Overhauled and painted suspension legs.
New tie rod bushes
New driveshaft gaiters
New front hubs
New calipers and flexible hoses, new disk pads.
Removed exhaust, cleaned up and replaced.
New spider to rear propshaft. All propshafts removed, painted and replaced.
Wheel arch plastic liners removed, brake pipes checked, all inner wings waxoiled.
Front wiper motor replaced - just need a new wiper arm.


All original parts retained, have been cleaned off and repainted. Starting to look smart!

Tomorrow, just front brakes to bleed, driveshaft nuts to torque, and complete painting wheel rims.

Hopefully, can get started up and enable to turn Panda round in garage for next bout - overhaul all back axle and springs, petrol tank and rear brakes.

Amazingly, for a car bought in 1986, all nuts and bolts have come undone with no major problems to date. Only 'struggles', was replacing gearbox (left engine in car)and there is not a lot of room with the 4x4 to slip the box back in. In hindsight, I would completely remove the engine if repeating the exercise, as after removing gearbox, the engine is only left hanging by two bolts (engine mounts). Fitting the rear prop to diff spider was hellish, largely due to slightly oversize part supplied by Fiat (25) which I managed to bust by over enthusiasm, and had to buy another?

I have digi photoed all work done to date, with a view to mounting all on a CD later.


Best tools to date = Porters Manual and 11mm brake spanner!

Regards,

Tom

tjs
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Old 18-02-2004   #11
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Thanks for the update Waddow :)

Glad to hear it's going well. Good luck with the rest of the work ;)

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