i ditched the Bosch injection system on my 999 panda 4x4ie cause it was not working and had a rep for unreliability. i fitted a carb and manifold and a electric fuel lift pump as that seemed like a simple way to get the car running. the carb has never let me down but i has never been brilliant either. its spluttery prone to stalling when cold and never had a steady idle. i have 2 carbs and some times i strip and clean the spare and swap it over with disappointing results (i have never splashed out on a rebuild kit that might help) i have also switched between points and electronic ignition with little difference. all this makes me think fuel injection might be a good idea so iam pondering my options which are.
1 find a working marelli injection system.
2 fit a 1.2 mk 1 punto engine
3 fit a mk1 punto injection system to my 999cc engine. what would this involve? i would need throttle body. ecu, engine loom, fuel pump, manifold (would the punto one work or would it be custom) probably i need a crank position sensor in there some where. the old bosch system i think ran of a signal from the ignition coil. has anyone tried this? any thoughts?

I would do a rebuild of the carb personally. Especially since you have a spare to be on the car whilst your busy rebuilding the other. The 1242 is certainly a good option however is much more involved than rebuilding the carb. As for converting the current engine to fuel injection, I don't really know but I would guess it makes more sense to just drop in the entire 1242cc lump with loom etc since it will give you more benefit for the effort involved.

mk 1 puntos are geting a bit rare. ive been keeping my eye out for one for a while but nothing local. best i can find is a 98 1.1 none runner 100 miles away. mybe i shoud just spend £40 on a carb kit and find some one with a ultrasonic tank in the mean time.

So the original fuel system was bosch mono jettronic. I still have lots of parts for this system. To change to a marelli system i would need a crank position sensor.

i have converted to and from injection on my 4x4. it was good to start with but i could never get it to idle right. i went back to a carb.. i used the bosch system.

the only issue with the twin coil type ignition system is to fit it to a 999cc engine, you also need to change the oil pump housing as that has the bracket for the CPS. other than that, just swapping the manifold and installing the wiring harness from any non fly by wire SPI 1.1 engine should be easy. just make sure its from a car thats pre 2000. also dont forget that the immobiliser stuff is needed too. but thats only the key, ignition barrel antenna and code box. it only uses one wire to communicate with the ecu.

i have fit a 1.2 to a panda 4x4 with great successes. it was a while ago but if you do go down that route, be sure to ask me for help. i remember how to wire it all in... its honestly not that hard as you can keep most of the pandas original engine loom.

thanks dragon man thats very useful. i have nothing against the 1.2 engine but haven't found any in non fly by wire form. if i can harvest a useable injection system of a blown engine that widens the net a bit. i was also wondering could i run the bosh throttle body of a third party ecu speeduino the i expect that option my not take more time and money than its worth. i dont want to build a race car just looking for a bit of economy and a steady idle.

the carb lives. so i got a carb rebuild kit and had my carb ultrasonically cleaned. i seem to have one very small o ring left over after the rebuild? running ok but haven't had the car up to temperature yet to give the verdict. Gona also fit a lexus master cylinder new pads and a stainless steel exhaust which will be made of a Peugeot 107 exhaust with a ford kia back box.

I usually have an o ring left over from the rebuild kit too so I assume it's not in the Panda TLF anyway... glad the carb lives!

Tiny o ring could be for the idle mixture adjusting tapered needle but don't worry about it(-:

jackwhoo said:

Tiny o ring could be for the idle mixture adjusting tapered needle but don't worry about it(-:

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yup thats were it goes. its in now, but none of the annoying traits are cured. next i will remove the intake manifold and see if i can find an air leek.

binhoker said:

yup thats were it goes. its in now, but none of the annoying traits are cured. next i will remove the intake manifold and see if i can find an air leek.

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When you tried electronic ignition was that a complete electronic distributor and coil from an uno?
Or an after market electronic part that replaced the points in the awful original distributor?

carbs are forgiven. i love carbs!
decided to check ignition timing this morning and could only just get rotor arm to line up with the arrow on dust cover when i set engine to tdc by the fly wheel. further investigation revealed that the cam wasn't timed very well. i moved it on one tooth reset the ignition and my car now starts runs idles and accelerates much better. it must have been like that for a long time i do remember experimenting with cam timing before but it was years ago.
The marks for setting up the cam are a bit awkward to see. on the cam pulley its best to put a straight edge through the mark and the center bolt and line that with another straight edge running through the mark on the bak of the engine.
long live the carb.

my car is a 4x4 IE. it had electronic ignition that also pulsed the Bosch injection system it stil has a distributer and rotor arm its just the points that are electronic. i think this is what an uno has, but i dont know much about unos.

binhoker said:

my car is a 4x4 IE. it had electronic ignition that also pulsed the Bosch injection system it stil has a distributer and rotor arm its just the points that are electronic. i think this is what an uno has, but i dont know much about unos.

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Great.
The original points type distributor was awful even when new .

Set ingnition timing with a strobe light the arrow on the distributor is just a very very rough guide where the rotor arm points to.