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Technical Fires but cuts out on release of ignition key

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Technical Fires but cuts out on release of ignition key

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Gardeneraceae

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Hi everyone. I have a 1988 Panda 1000cl. I’ve had it a couple of years and although I’m not mechanically experienced I serviced it, replaced the starter motor and fixed the gear linkage. There are 63000 miles on the clock. It has been running nicely and I recently drove her from Belfast to Tunbridge Wells where I have a new job. Last night I took her out to the shops then stopped for a kebab and when I got back in and tried to start her up she fired but cut out when I released the key on the ignition. I repeated this quite a number of times. Sometimes she failed to fire and sometimes successfully fired but cut out again when the key was released in the switch. The AA came out and couldnt she’s any light on it. A colleague checked the fuel pump this morning and it seems to be okay. He suggested replacing the ignition coil. Any thoughts would be hugely appreciated!
 
Gardeneraceae said:
Hi everyone. I have a 1988 Panda 1000cl. I’ve had it a couple of years and although I’m not mechanically experienced I serviced it, replaced the starter motor and fixed the gear linkage. There are 63000 miles on the clock. It has been running nicely and I recently drove her from Belfast to Tunbridge Wells where I have a new job. Last night I took her out to the shops then stopped for a kebab and when I got back in and tried to start her up she fired but cut out when I released the key on the ignition. I repeated this quite a number of times. Sometimes she failed to fire and sometimes successfully fired but cut out again when the key was released in the switch. The AA came out and couldnt she’s any light on it. A colleague checked the fuel pump this morning and it seems to be okay. He suggested replacing the ignition coil. Any thoughts would be hugely appreciated!
Click to expand...

Hi,
Check the ballast resistor in series with the ignition coil. This is switched out during cranking but reduces the voltage when running. If the resistor has failed or wire dropped off it will give your symptoms. A quick check is to connect a wire from the coil +ve to the battery and try again. If it runs with that the ballast resistor or its connections are suspect. Note you will have to disconnect the extra wire to stop the engine. Don't leave it connected with the engine stopped or run the engine too long like this as it could burn out the coil.


Robert G8RPI.
 
Last edited:
Thanks Robert. My Haynes manual doesn’t refer to a ballast resistor but Im assuming it’s the coil attached to the bulkhead? I’ll give that a goin the morning and I’ll let you know. Much appreciated.
 
Gardeneraceae said:
Thanks Robert. My Haynes manual doesn’t refer to a ballast resistor but Im assuming it’s the coil attached to the bulkhead? I’ll give that a goin the morning and I’ll let you know. Much appreciated.
Click to expand...

Hi,
I'm ak is the resistor?ssuming it has a ballast resistor as it is typical for engines of this era. They are typically white ceramic rectangular blocks bolted to a bulkhead or inner wing.
Can you take pictures of your coil and what you think is the resistor?

Robert G8RPI.
 
Have you ever checked or changed the points in the distributor?
 
No but I know now this is something I probably should do as part of the service. Back to the manual!
 
g8rpi said:
Hi,
I'm ak is the resistor?ssuming it has a ballast resistor as it is typical for engines of this era. They are typically white ceramic rectangular blocks bolted to a bulkhead or inner wing.
Can you take pictures of your coil and what you think is the resistor?

Robert G8RPI.
Click to expand...



I think the coil you mentioned is the dim dip resistor.
 
it is interesting, could it not just be an ignition switch fault? i have had little to no experience with the points type distributor but when looking on other peoples pandas, i never noticed any kind of resistor myself?

could there also be a possibility that it could be somehow earthing through the starter only while its on? try the old jump lead from the engine to a bolt on the chassis, then to the battery - terminal... who knows..

defiantly an interesting issue.

if you feel like giving the ignition switch a test, here is how to bypass it once you take the plug out:

as you are looking into the ignition switch connector on the column.. not the wiring harness:
 
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Fuel. Pump crank the engine with the fuel pipe off into a jar to check a steady flow of fuel. Debris in the tank will stop the fuel

If all good look for the 12v on the coils. Constant. When the key is released. Finally if all good to that point. Spray neat fuel into the carb using a household spray like mr musel If this works and continues to fire its s carb blockage issue. No firing means a spark issue so then add a spare plug to a plug lead look for a spark.
This is the basic fault route to follow
 
Last edited by a moderator:
I think you could be right about this. When I turn the key once to its pre-ignition settings am I correct in thinking the electrics should come on, heater lights etc. This does not happen. So when I turn the key the engine fires but release it and everything cuts out. Is this conclusive proof that the fault is the ignition switch and that it needs replaced I'm wondering?
 
g8rpi said:
Does sound like either the switch its self or the wiring.
Follow Dragon Mans guidance to by-pass switch in post #8 to determine if it's switch or wiring.

Robert G8RPI.
Click to expand...
Okay. I'm sure Ive found the problem now.. I dismantled the steering colum and removed the connectors from the ignition barrel. One of the terminals is burnt out. I've tried to post pics below. Ricambio dont seem to stock replacements and I'm more interested in what could have caused this and how I prevent it happening again before I replace the necessary parts. Any advice would be hugely appreciated!
 
Gardeneraceae said:
Okay. I'm sure Ive found the problem now.. I dismantled the steering colum and removed the connectors from the ignition barrel. One of the terminals is burnt out. I've tried to post pics below. Ricambio dont seem to stock replacements and I'm more interested in what could have caused this and how I prevent it happening again before I replace the necessary parts. Any advice would be hugely appreciated!
Click to expand...

Hi,
The root cause is probably corrosion due to age. The contact then gets hot due to the resistance and it degrades further.
You need to clean up the blade on the switch with a fine file or emery paper. You can cut the burnt crimp out of the damaged connector and replace it with a single push-on crimp. Alternatively you can clean up the blade on the switch and solder the wire on or a short extenson wire and in-line crimp. This is less original but is likely to be more durable given the damage to the switch blade.

Robert G8RPI.
 
Last edited:
Robert thank you very much indeed. I'll try that over the weekend and let you know how I get on. Much appreciated.
 
The fault is the ignition switch. Ordered one last Friday from Ebay. Of course it was sent by snail mail and hasn't arrived. Looks like I might have to drive over to Ashford tomorrow to pick one up if I ever want to get back on the road!
 
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