That is the sensible , safer next step, along with the other checks suggested.
If when it starts black smoke comes from exhaust likely too much choke being used.
Make sure oil and coolant are in engine.

Make sure air filter not blocked

Air filter is removed. Thanks all will try again today and let you know. Thanks! [emoji5]

jackwhoo said:

what year was your panda built?

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1989

Ok so little update. I connected the battery and put fuel directly in the carb. The car started and ran but as soon as the fuel ran out it shut off and didnt fire back up. Pulled the choke, car started for a few seconds and shut back off. Disconnected the fuel hose that goes into the carb and put it in a bottle to check that the pump is working which it is as the bottle filled up. What should i check next? Thanks

turbo93 said:

So the best thing to do is to connect a battery to the engine and try again? It might work?

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Hey electric. Spark fuel crank. Battery off car could be temperamentally jack states. but you do need something to dump the alternator charge to. Then check pump then check fuel delivery. Then check spark if all above it will start It’s already started once so it’s just a matter of itermittent. Fuel spark or both. Use a Hayens manual for the model. To find jets. For cleaning only if it’s running intermittent. Rough running I had blocked fuel. Incoming line cleared by air line down the fuel supply from tank

Sjvarley said:

Hey electric. Spark fuel crank. Battery off car could be temperamentally jack states. but you do need something to dump the alternator charge to. Then check pump then check fuel delivery. Then check spark if all above it will start It’s already started once so it’s just a matter of itermittent. Fuel spark or both. Use a Hayens manual for the model. To find jets. For cleaning only if it’s running intermittent. Rough running I had blocked fuel. Incoming line cleared by air line down the fuel supply from tank

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If i put fuel directly into the carb it starts. From the pump it only starts with the choke on and for a few seconds and stalls

turbo93 said:

If i put fuel directly into the carb it starts. From the pump it only starts with the choke on and for a few seconds and stalls

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Great from there try the plastic bottle header tank keep it above the carb. No leaks please. Then if succsfully try feeding the pump inlet
If successful it’s a blocked fuel line or a split pump diaphram check this by cranking it should have a vacum on the tank side will suck in. And blow on the out let Good luck

Sjvarley said:

Great from there try the plastic bottle header tank keep it above the carb. No leaks please. Then if succsfully try feeding the pump inlet
If successful it’s a blocked fuel line or a split pump diaphram check this by cranking it should have a vacum on the tank side will suck in. And blow on the out let Good luck

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So to check of the diaphragm is gone you check to see if you feel any air coming out of the outlet of the pump to the carb? And if so, is it replaceable of i have to replace the whole pump? Thanks

turbo93 said:

So to check of the diaphragm is gone you check to see if you feel any air coming out of the outlet of the pump to the carb? And if so, is it replaceable of i have to replace the whole pump? Thanks

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Yes also check the pull of the pump put a finger over the intent while st cranking it should get sucked on to the pipe if good

Sjvarley said:

Yes also check the pull of the pump put a finger over the intent while st cranking it should get sucked on to the pipe if good

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Ok will check it out and keep y’all updated [emoji108]

Sjvarley said:

Yes also check the pull of the pump put a finger over the intent while st cranking it should get sucked on to the pipe if good

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If still having probs you could do a face time thingy

Is there a metal mesh filter inside the inlet stub of the carb ? Is it restricting fuel flow into carb?

Car has been sat a long time, float needle valve could be sticky.
Put fuel bottle onto carb inlet and hold up. If car continues to run, needle valve ok. If it stops or is intermittent, valve is sticking. May only release when float falls a long way down, hence it restarts, but won't keep running, as during normal running float drops only a little bit.

Hello and welcome, no such thing as too many questions I don’t have too much to add other than to ask if you have the choke all the way out? It may only require about halfway out

onemanmade said:

Hello and welcome, no such thing as too many questions I don’t have too much to add other than to ask if you have the choke all the way out? It may only require about halfway out

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It only restarts with the choke fully opened

Good morning to all, i just noticed these two inlets/outlets. Should there be something connected to it? Thanks

Ok so i managed to remove the carb and give it a good clean as it was very dirty on the inside. Put it back on and the car is starting with the choke and stays on. Idles quite rough without choke and shuts off. Adjusted the mixture screw anti-clockwise and it starts and idles but when the accelerator is pressed it shuts back off. Could ot be the pump?

hey there, that problem can be cause by 2 things.

in the carb theres a jet, this jet can get blocked. try revving the engine very slowly. if it does build RPMs then that could be the fault. heres a video i made to show the issues i had:




the second thing that causes this fault is the vacuum advance on the distributor. you cant miss the thing, its the large disc shaped object with the pipe going in it from the back of the carb. theres actually 2 pipes on the back of the carb. the small hard to see pipe which controls the choke flap can split, so check for that.

anyway unplug the pipe going to the distributor from the back of the carb now i know it sound a bit grim but suck on the pipe. if you meet resistance like you are sucking on a spring that shoots back when you release the vacuum the thing is in good health. sadly if you can keep sucking on it like the pipe is not blocked off on the other end then the diaphragm has failed inside.

you should be able to get a new one from Ricambio >>here<<.
alternatively, one from a citroen AX will fit if you drill a extra hole in one of the mounting feet.

naturally check for vacuum leaks, check to see if the brake servo (if you have it) is not leaking vacuum and just listen to see if anything is hissing.

once you have done that and fixed any potential vacuum leaks, you will have to adjust the fuel mixture screw back to its original position or there abouts.

hope this helps!