panda was put to work today manovering a boat trailer about the yard in a blizard. as it has small turning circle 4x4 and starts more predicably than my tractor. did the job well. steering is definetly wonky on full lock but ok wheen straight cant think why that would be?

Have you got exactly the same amount of turns from centre to left as right ? If not you have the rack off set and wheel may be rubbing on the arch inner wing !!!! May also need rack sims adding to add more riditance backlash when turning

my panda lipstic doner car will soon be going to scrap all thats left on it is the omeaga axle and fuel tank as that wont work as a spare for my 4x4 most other removable parts have been boxed and squriled away. it is rusty round the sills and floor but ok further up if any one wants me to cut any body work out for them get touch

so today i drove my now legal road goin panda to the shop for its anagaural spud run and bought some spuds and beer. On the way i filled up when i came back from paying there was a puddle of petrol under the car (i suspect the fuel gage sender) i pretended not to notice and drove off quickly its not leaking any more.

so today i drove my now legal road goin panda to the shop for its anagaural spud run and bought some spuds and beer. On the way i filled up when i came back from paying there was a puddle of petrol under the car (i suspect the fuel gage sender) i pretended not to notice and drove off quickly its not leaking any more since i got home. wheel alignment is better now but there was still alot of road noise when we atempted to go fast. also the spuds tasted good.

Is the fuel filler neck on properly? I know ours wasn't fully pushed on when we got it and couldnt fill more than 3/4 of a tank without it pouring out. Another jubilee clip helped until it was properly sorted.

I bought a cork seal and some hylomar to fix the fuel tank leak but it might have fixed its self. the fuel pump also apears to be improving with age. on my 3rd fan belt. have removed the rear propshaft as it was vibrating badly at speeds over 40, caution to all those who rebuild there popshafts make sure everything is marked. haven't finished my off rack or fitted stereo, sump guard or bullbars yet.
think my bakes bind a bit but it helps to lift the pedal with my toe, I fitted a extra spring to pedal but it hasn't eradicated the problem. perhaps that's why may fuel economy is not great. get box deals bit lumpy, has any one rebuilt one ? but I have been do ing a few miles in the car and it always gets me home. o and the heat isn't great.

one year on and i am fitting new front shocks and rod end boots for mot. i notice one of my steering arms is bent. probably the cause of my un explained wheel scrub. the steering rack was broken on the car when i got it perhaps the arm was bent by the same incident. found a rusty but straight one in my box of 2wd parts, looks to be a better job.

bullbars

I bought these bull bars a while back they seem to fit but don't look like many others I've seen don't attach the same way either.

the bull bars haven't made it on yet but i did make my self a stainless steel exhaust its made of a Peugeot 107 exhaust and a ford ka back box got them from my local breakers for £40 i think these are made 409 grade stainless they are magnetic and a bit corroded but will hopefully last ok. i tig welded them with 316l filler rod. pehaps i could have found a slightly bigger bore than the 107 exhaust its kinda wee.

also got round to fitting the Lexus master cylinder got of eBay bout a year ago. I had been meaning to follow sjvarleys lead for a while but i eventually found the motivation to do the job when my brakes failed due to all the fluid having leaked out of my flaky old master cylinder job was handy enough done bit of a cut and shut on the forfend and had to cut a few mll of the connecting rod as the fist time i fitted it the rod was to long and made the brakes bind. ive had problems with brakes binding before but this time they were binding equally on both sides so i new it was the rod length.
i got round to bypassing the dip-dim resistor which had come with my rhd wiring loom. took about 10 seconds and was a big improvement wish id done it earlier. striped my dash and changed the speedo mechanism a gain it now i fitted a uk face to the Km mecanisam so i now have a working speedo reading mph and kmph and a mileometer displaying kilometers. is that a kilometermeter? i am still trying to get my engine to idle reliably but thats on another post

binhoker said:

trying to make this electric pump work reliably is not so easy keep either drawing in air or vapor locking despite being now mounted as close to the tank as possible and having been resealed several times. i am considering my next move
A improvise some sort of return line to bleed air out of system.
B fit an in tank high pressure pump and pressure regulator.
C replace existing pump with similar pump that costs more than £12.99.
D some combination of the above.

i cant use mechanical pump as apparently i don't have a lobe on my camshaft to drive it

Click to expand...

9 years later i realize that i can fit a cam pump to my engine