Thought it might help spur me on to get this done... and posting on progress will be a good way of procrastinating said progress
Not done a clutch since Bedford CF... or a transverse clutch since I did my mini van in 1970 I was a nipper!
Now I'm into codgerism - forgetting where I put the tools. When I find 'em - I forget what I wanted 'em for lol

so some crossed off already:

1) Disconnect battery (only 'cos it's knackered lol)
2) Remove starter motor
3) disconnect exhaust pipe at manifold
4) disconnect reversing lamp lead
5) disconnect speedo drive (easier from below)
6) drop gearbox oil
7) disconnect gear linkages
8) remove fixed gear lever mounting from transmission
9) remove front wheels
10) split ball joints from hub carriers
11) remove calipers (hang aside on wire supports)
12) disconnect steering tie rod ball joints
13) disconnect clutch cable
14) unbolt transmission lower mounting
15) undo driveshaft gaiter retaining plates
16) remove flywheel cover plate from below
17) support engine from above with bar
18) unbolt flywheel housing
19) support transmission with trolley jack
20) disconnect top mounting
21) lower transmission onto jack

meanwhile:
22) save up for clutch kit...

1,2,4 & 13 - 'cos they easy...

no blood spilt yet... but watch this space

That don't make sense... as usual...

1, 2, 4 & 13 are the ones to cross off - try and get her up on stands tomorrow...

Well as it took so long to change the oil on Lucy yesterday I didn't get anything done on Ruth...

I'm surprised no one's picked me up on one vital operation required that's not on the above list... you all dozing till it comes to an oil change

lightweightmick said:

Well as it took so long to change the oil on Lucy yesterday I didn't get anything done on Ruth...

I'm surprised no one's picked me up on one vital operation required that's not on the above list... you all dozing till it comes to an oil change

Click to expand...

Gearbox won't come out very far without disconnecting the prop shaft.

lightweightmick said:

I'm surprised no one's picked me up on one vital operation required that's not on the above list... you all dozing till it comes to an oil change

Click to expand...

Ah, I see what you mean:

lightweightmick said:

1) Disconnect battery (only 'cos it's knackered lol)
-cup of tea
2) Remove starter motor
-cup of tea
3) disconnect exhaust pipe at manifold
-cup of tea
4) disconnect reversing lamp lead
-cup of tea
5) disconnect speedo drive (easier from below)
-cup of tea
6) drop gearbox oil
-cup of tea
7) disconnect gear linkages
-cup of tea
8) remove fixed gear lever mounting from transmission
-cup of tea
9) remove front wheels
-cup of tea
10) split ball joints from hub carriers
-cup of tea
11) remove calipers (hang aside on wire supports)
-cup of tea
12) disconnect steering tie rod ball joints
-cup of tea
13) disconnect clutch cable
-cup of tea
14) unbolt transmission lower mounting
-cup of tea
15) undo driveshaft gaiter retaining plates
-cup of tea
16) remove flywheel cover plate from below
-cup of tea
17) support engine from above with bar
-cup of tea
18) unbolt flywheel housing
-cup of tea
19) support transmission with trolley jack
-cup of tea
20) disconnect top mounting
-cup of tea
21) lower transmission onto foot
-swear
-cup of tea

Click to expand...

VmanC said:

Gearbox won't come out very far without disconnecting the prop shaft.

Click to expand...

Vernon - sharp as ever lol

firstcar-Y10 said:

Ah, I see what you mean:

Click to expand...

I see you have time on your hands...

so far in actuality:

1) try an find keys... get distracted for half an hour. Try and remember what you were looking for. Remember where you put all keys when you did a tidy up last year. Find said tidy bag after 10 minutes... 'coffee is ready...' shouted from downstairs. Spend 20 minutes on phone... try and remember what day it is...
half and hour later find said keys in ignition from last time it wouldn't start.
Turn key - nothing even lights up... where's that 8mm open ender spanner...
eventually take battery off. Get side-tracked in wonderment at fully functional heater matrix valve - wish other Panda had same - consider swapping it to other Panda. Dismiss idea after some head scratching. Find battery charger, but can't find bulldog clip connecter, as use charger to power pump for cider. Ahah, hung up in garage. Put battery on charge only to find ammeter needle doesn't budge - decide battery knackered, but leave it on charge anyway...

2) Begin to remove starter motor. Lunch is ready... After lunch remove 2 most obvious bolts but need 13mm spanner as can't get socket on for 3rd. Spend half an hour trying to find 13mm spanner. Decide said spanner has been nicked by same scroat that nicked cooling fan off dash. Decide to start locking van up... abandon project until 13mm spanner can be procured.

Next day visit no1 cider fan (or poss no2..?) - spend half hour chatting about nothing in particular but come away with loaned 13mm spanner anyway.
Put spanner under seat and forget all about it.
Allow 2 days to pass before making decision to make determined effort to remove starter motor. Realise with horror that Panda is so close to gargae door that on opening it scuffs front edge of bonnet if left in safety catch postion ie. just 1" higher than closed position. Vow to never let that happen again.
Remember 13mm is under car seat - but spot 13mm small socket from 3/8" drive socket set. Try it with short extension of same and realise I don't need 13mm spanner anyway... Remember to put bolts in a bank bag in case I never see them again. I know I have a bank bag somewhere...
Eventually get starter motor off - well, down at least and sitting on exhaust.

4 & 13) Decide to do next easiest jobs on list to feel as though you're getting somewhere lol - Dinner eady - close garage door only to remember at last moment that garage door catches edge of bonnet... time stands still before impact... This now leaves a red primer line because garage door never got a top coat because 'she inside' didn't agree with your choice of top coat colour.

Time to take blood pressure...

:bang:

this kinda sounds like the fallout project.. only you are putting it way more easy.

VmanC said:

Gearbox won't come out very far without disconnecting the prop shaft.

Click to expand...

That would be that ring of allen bolts then onto the transfer box... the one I haven't got a socket for... I haven't tried just an allen key yet though but I doubt that'll crack 'em off.

Otherwise progress good today apart from forgetting the most important one on list: no.6! ...that soon took care of itself though as the O/S inboard boot came adrift as I disconnected the ball joint from the lower arm - it was only secured with a tie wrap (I prefer the metal bands...) - surprising how long it takes to grab something to catch oil... I found the drain plug afterward - caked over as it was...

Can't (as yet) see the need to disconnect exhaust... (any thoughts..?) - doesn't appear to be in the way..? Dare say I'll find out when the manifold cracks or something equally drastic happens...

Good to learn I can now just get the balljoint dust covers - (at least one good thing to come out of new MOT law!) This didn't used to be the case and I didn't fancy buying two new hub carriers (if I could get 'em..?) - I have just replaced the ball joints before now but they are a b*gg*r to get in! I wasn't getting anywhere with two big hammers on the sides of the joint (must have lost some of my 'umph' lol) so I came inside and did a bit of research before searching out the balljoint splitter...
Anyone used these dust covers..? - do I need the small ones? and are they same size as tie rod ball joints?

Doing well - no blood lost yet...

Thanks for the encouraging banter you guys - it makes a world of difference to know you have the might of the Fiat Forum behind you

If you use a small piece of tube or a ring spanner to extend your allen key it may undo the bolts, or it may just break your allen key.

all cracked-off but one... maybe I can get to it from other side, if not, all I got to do is work out how to turn the prop. Lets hope it don't fall off the stands if I jack a back wheel up...
Be wise to put a bigger chock under the other side first methinks otherwise cider production could be down this year lol
Need to find a way of supporting the engine next...
3 piece clutch kit on way :slayer:
cheers Vernon - you're just a big softie at heart... :hug:

Could just reach it from other side but couldn't exert enough pressure... as front's on axle stands (under body) very carefully jacked one wheel up just enough to be able to turn it. Thought I'd got handbrake on at first lol... so rear brakes gonna need a bit of attention...

So prop's disconnected now - and another one not on list:

?) Uncouple 4x4 warning lamp sw



got fed up with allen key - so ground about an inch off to fit 6mm socket - much better! It must be a piece of p*ss for you guys who have all the right tools an' stuff - like ramps and nice level concrete floors

hmm, that reminds me, I'll need to put some good flat surface underneath or that box won't be going anywhere...

Yet another tea break... firstcar-Y10 nearly got it right lol

Haynes manual:
'one bolt is very high up by the driveshaft opening'

huh, so that's why that lower cover plate won't come off... but is it bolted to the clutch housing or the transmission... transmission surely..? - got to be...

It can stop on if it's attached to the transmission

My engine support leaves a lot to be desired...

That big chunk is now sitting on the jack... er, and the tie rod. Terrifying as it starts to lower - but that tie rod will have to be disconnected. You also have to remove the mounting bracket - not just disconnect the mounting as the transmission can't be moved sufficiently away from the engine to lower otherwise.
Getting a fair collection of nuts and bolts... hope I can remember where they all go

Tie rod still on? Is now a good time to mention when I dropped my gearbox out I just dropped off the strut, tie rod & bottom suspension arm as a single unit, you need the space to manoeuvre if you're splitting 'box from engine on the car and leaving the engine in situ. Also disconnect top radiator hose (is that one the same on the 4x4?) and probably whip the dizzy off too as you need to angle the engine down & back slightly to pull the box out the wheelarch to disengage the input shaft.

I reckon it'll come down with tie bar (radius rod) just loosened on lower arm and disconnected at front and pushed aside under wheel arch

Now I can see into the housing it looks like oil contamination... though could be a combination of worn driven plate and oil... oil seal anyone..?

DIY engine support lol - doing job though - it's amazing what you can do with a bit of string

Well she's 'down and out' - in the end I had to remove the radius rod front mounting - I couldn't budge the rear (is it a taper fit bolt like a balljoint..?) - don't seem to remember having problems when changing that lower arm in the past - but I gave up and just dropped the mounting - it can then just be pushed aside.
The transmission's gonna be a pig to get back in though...
Now for that clutch! theres def too much oil around in there though so will need a new seal on the transmission side - might do the engine side at same time...
decisions decisions...
:slayer:

Mick.
A post in the classifieds perhaps........

Panda 4x4 for Sale
Open to Offers
Free swarfega and a pint of Cider available
Cash up front
Bring your own spanners as buyer reassembles


Dave