Technical Rear brake pipe inner union access..?

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Technical Rear brake pipe inner union access..?

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Sep 1, 2005
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Anyone managed to gain access to these I was hoping to change the brake pipe, but it looks as the Omega axle has to be dropped or maybe the petrol tank to get at the ba**ard... :confused:
It looks as if you can get it 1 flat at a time but the double union to the flexi hose moves slightly making it impossible to gain any leverage.

I'm changing the N/S wheel cylinder and as I had an advisory on the brake pipe last year - 'slightly corroded' - I thought it'd be a good idea to replace it while I'm doing the wheel cylinder, but looks like I'm scuppered... :eek:
 
Brrr... had to come in for a cup of tea :p - bloomin' wind's got up and is whistling down 'drive... Least mi back's holding out. I keep stopping for a walk round lol and am kneeling instead of sitting on the removed wheel as I did doing the other side :)
knees are killing though now lol - can't win...
So anyway, I've managed to get a flare on the end of the brakepipe, but it kept pushing the pipe back through the pipe clamp to begin with, but on tightening the clamp as tightly as possible with a screwdriver hooked into the wing nuts, I did manage to get a flare. I've done this to put a new union on as it's been undone twice now with molegrips... It says it'll cope with malleable steel on the flaring tool box that I've borrowed but it struggled - hope the flare's okay - will soon find out lol
I don't think the corrosion on the pipe is any worse than last year and I'll just give it a coat of grease.
Those bottom springs on the brake shoes take some getting back on and I was losing mi rag a bit there lol. I think when doing the shoes it's better if you can find a way to move the self-adjusters before fitting :bang:
All I got to do is bleed now - might have to do both sides though as had quite a bit of fluid loss despite removing float from M/C reservoir and covering with plastic film under cap... just hope I got enough brake fluid now...
'tea break over, back on yer heads...'
 
all done, job's a good un - back's okay this time - life left in the old git yet lol :slayer:

thanks for the PM Allen (y)

MOT not due till 5th Sept and I'm away for a few days this week, so I'll book it in end of week

Just got to return the flaring tool in case they need it this week - good chance for a road test...
 
Well done for getting it sorted (y).

Access is poor to that union, it is a case of either taking off the shocks at the bottom so you can swing the axle down for more accessability, or taking out the front mounting bolt and letting the front of the axle drop a little, you will need the axle supported though as the road springs will be trying to push the axle down.
 
Cheers Vernon - hopefully a job for next year... fingers crossed...
(y)
I haven't tackled the Omega axle yet, I just haven't had to. Testers must have a job inspecting that rear flexi as you can only see about 2" of it lol

I had the idea of sliding a ring spanner down the pipe once the other union was off - which I tried, but there was just no way it was going to work even though I could get it onto the union nut - just no room to turn it, no matter which way I fed it down.
 
Just a note on that float removal...
If you want to minimise fluid loss, here's how without breaking it (like I did...)
Straighten the connectors up with pliers carefully...
Ease off green rubber 'push/test' cover
Prise off nylon cap
Remove the tiny circlip to release the float and plastic rod

(Don't just assume it's a push fit like I did...)

Once the float is off, cover the reservoir with a piece of plastic bag and screw top back on.

If you do break it (and lose the test function :rolleyes:) - when reassembling heat the washer held in some long-nose pliers (not too much though!) and press it onto the end, this will melt enough of the collar on the shaft and enough will show above the contact washer to melt over with a hot soldering iron to secure the washer.
Either way when re-assembling, don't forget the contact washer needs to be above the two contacts - otherwise the brake warning light will be on all the time as the float pushes it up against the contacts.

It would help to have a scrap spare cap just for the thread... or maybe some sauce bottle or other has a same size threaded cap?
 
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