I'm doing the Mk1 Punto 1242 16v MPI conversion to my panda. I have everything to make it work now, except the codebox and aerial to remove the immobiliser!

At my local scrappies there are a couple of Punto's, mainly mk1 1242 8v Punto S's.

I asked the guy to remove the codebox and aerial for me but when I took my engine loom to make sure they fit, there was no connection between the two.

Is there a piece of under-dashboard wiring I need to plug the codebox into my engine loom? And does anybody know if an 8v codebox and aerial is able to work with my 16v ECU?

Pictures would be very much appreciated as I dont really know what I'm looking for, and don't want to have to send my ECU off and wait a few days when I can have it all running by then.

Cheers,

Alex

As far as I know you one THE SAME set (key-with immo, code box and ECU)
Without "magic people" you can't use differnt code box with and ECU
I wanted to do the same....as I've got 1.2 16V from Punto and just ONE key

But you can find somebody who can "switch off" immo from ECU and then you don't need it at all OR if you've got code box, aerial and 2 key or code card and master key you can ask this "magic people" to "clear" immo details from ECU and connect it to your "code box set" after that your "clear" ECU will pick codes and will be assing to you own key (code box)

Hope you know what I mean

jangcy said:

As far as I know you one THE SAME set (key-with immo, code box and ECU)
Without "magic people" you can't use differnt code box with and ECU
I wanted to do the same....as I've got 1.2 16V from Punto and just ONE key

But you can find somebody who can "switch off" immo from ECU and then you don't need it at all OR if you've got code box, aerial and 2 key or code card and master key you can ask this "magic people" to "clear" immo details from ECU and connect it to your "code box set" after that your "clear" ECU will pick codes and will be assing to you own key (code box)

Hope you know what I mean

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Yep I understand, I guess in that case I'll be sending my ECU off for de-immobilising now then.

Thanks for the help though

Alex

Hi Alex - Yeap, I believe the same. It's all matching all round - once I get mine started I'll be posting some pics - pitfalls and all!

PS - If there are too many... Then a recoded ECU may be the way forward!

Dufty

Bluestreak are the guys I used to test and decode my ECU in my 1242 8v mpi conversion http://www.bluestreak.co.uk/bs/

£45 plus delivery. I think it was a 48 hour service.

Saved me a lot of hassle as I didn't have the code box, red key, etc etc from the Punto.

Cheers

Dave

Dave Henry said:

Bluestreak are the guys I used to test and decode my ECU in my 1242 8v mpi conversion http://www.bluestreak.co.uk/bs/

£45 plus delivery. I think it was a 48 hour service.

Saved me a lot of hassle as I didn't have the code box, red key, etc etc from the Punto.

Cheers

Dave

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Yup, my ECU is currently on it's way there

Does the immobliser removal affect re-mapping at all?

alexbpl said:

Yup, my ECU is currently on it's way there

Does the immobliser removal affect re-mapping at all?

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Good stuff.

Don't know the answer on the re-map but would also like to find out. I am running a standard ECU but it is running too rich so would like to know if the ECU can be remapped to sort this out.

Cheers

Dave

Dave Henry said:

I am running a standard ECU but it is running too rich so would like to know if the ECU can be remapped to sort this out.

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If your engine is standard and you're using the standard ECU, that's a bit odd isn't it? Not knackered water temp/lambda sensor?

lewey said:

If your engine is standard and you're using the standard ECU, that's a bit odd isn't it? Not knackered water temp/lambda sensor?

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Odd indead. I had put it down to not running a cat but now think a sensor might not be working right.

I will get a new lambda sensor ordered to see if that cures it.

Where is the water temp sensor located on the mpi 8v engine?

Thanks

Dave

Dave Henry said:

Odd indead. I had put it down to not running a cat but now think a sensor might not be working right.

I will get a new lambda sensor ordered to see if that cures it.

Where is the water temp sensor located on the mpi 8v engine?

Thanks

Dave

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Don't bother with the lambda just yet as they are expensive for good ones. Try the coolant sensor as they are cheap and would make the car run rich as ECU thinks engine is always cold. Not sure where it is on that implementation, but will have a blue two pin socket on it and be in the head somewhere.

Well this evening I finally got my flywheel back after they spent a week lightening it using flint hammers and sticks

Decided to make a start by undoing things, labelling connections and de-plumbing and removing the radiator and coolant systems.

A few minor problems I have already encountered:

The Haynes manual actually less useful than a chocolate teapot when it comes to engine removal for a fuel injected Panda. Also is it actually possible to remove the engine on its own without the transmission?

Lewey I think you said you did it that way, leaving the gearbox and driveshafts on their own and just hoist the engine out. Or did I misread?

Also whilst down there, I noticed my Y10 Radius arms had unscrewed themselves and were literally on by the last thread! LOL close or what!!!!!

I'm on a tea break now whilst my brain recovers.

fun fun fun

You can just about take the gearbox off and leave the engine, but not the other way round . If I wanted to deal with either, I would drop them both together though as it doesn't really save time with all the silly fiddling you have to do.

Put NEW nylock nuts on the tie bars and do them up really tight. As tight as you can with a normal wrench is fine. You could have had a proper wierd accident. Surprised there wasn't a lot of slapping noises going on? Crazy!

lewey said:

You can just about take the gearbox off and leave the engine, but not the other way round . If I wanted to deal with either, I would drop them both together though as it doesn't really save time with all the silly fiddling you have to do.

Put NEW nylock nuts on the tie bars and do them up really tight. As tight as you can with a normal wrench is fine. You could have had a proper wierd accident. Surprised there wasn't a lot of slapping noises going on? Crazy!

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Funnily enough - the reason I was looking there in the first place was because the steering had become sloppy, the wheels were catching on the mudflaps constantly and it had started to pull over to one side when I let off the throttle!!! Obviously this is all because the wheels had moved back about 5 inches!!!

I've put new nyloc nuts on AND wire locked the little b'stards so they wont be going anywhere every again

with regard to the box and engine, i'm just going to drop them both at the same time as there is some tinkering to be had with the starter and box which will be easier with both of them out.

Am I right in thinking I can remove the whole engine bay loom including the ECU?

Just reading the 'how to fit a 16v fire engine in a panda' thread and can't really work out what he's trying to say lol

Cheers,

Alex

You can remove the loom in one if you disconnect everything first, inlcuding earth connections. The ECU is inside under the dash. Disconnect the plug and push the plug through the bulkhead.

lewey said:

You can remove the loom in one if you disconnect everything first, inlcuding earth connections. The ECU is inside under the dash. Disconnect the plug and push the plug through the bulkhead.

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Sorted

There was a huge rubber bung that was a pretty tight fit but it's all out now. Did you by any chance have this 'inertia fuel cutoff' switch thing in the passenger footwell?

I think I should be done pretty soon (famous last words). A few mates came round and poked fun at how it won't be done till the year 2050 but I think loom out, plumbing out, driveshafts disconnected and all the relevent tricky bits done - isn't too bad for a 2pm start

The only parts that I can see holding me up now are waiting for the ECU to come back, getting a set of HT leads off a guy from here and then spending a long time figuring out the wiring. Although hopefully when I get into it I'll be able to see everything clearly.

Oooh also what did you do about the fuel vapour recycler thingy inside the bumper?

Hi - yeah I agree the box comes out with the engine in but not the other way... I've done that on a 4x4 - no problem. This time, for the 1242, I have taken it all out in one as I want to mate the engine and box outside of the engine bay.

Well, finished my front struts now and I'm trying to find a place for my 5" rev counter with change light

Alex - I think that is the Charcoal filter?!? I think... I've read as long as you block the feed and let the return 'breath' a little all should be OK - well that's what I've done on my Corrado G60-16v...

Re: Panda I'm removing filter for induction pipe to the 'trumpet' end into front bumper for full cold air ram

We shall all have to meet up! Anyway... Been out tonight with my mate (he's a member and I'll let him paste a link) - just picked up a Black 1991 1000 Super - This is it in black

https://www.fiatforum.com/panda-classic/233151-fiat-panda-super-pic-request.html

She looks/drives OK! Buy for now

Leave the inertia switch alone. It's good for when you crash as it stops the fuel pump. You should re-use the wires that go to your fuel pump now as the wires that go to your new pump. That way you will retain the inertia switch's functionality.

It's good for WHEN you crash as it stops the fuel pump.

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Interesting choice of words Lewey.

VmanC said:

Interesting choice of words Lewey.

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Used quite deliberately Vernon. I've been in the car with Alex!

lewey said:

Used quite deliberately Vernon. I've been in the car with Alex!

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Hmmm, guessed as much.