Hey all,

An issue with my car. When I first got it about a week ago the vaccum advance hose was disconnected and plugged with a screw and the car ran a little rough. In neutral when slowing down or waiting at a stop, the car would stall if I didn't have the choke out a little. I plugged the vaccum advance into the distributor and it sounded better especially when revving up as is the reason for the vaccum advance. We also tried to adjust the carburator hoping that adjusting the mixture would fix the problem. The screw seems like it's too loose so we aren't sure if that is the way to adjust it but it did sound better at idle. We adjusted the screw at the top of the carburator towards the front half of the carburator. It's a flathead screw with a hole in the middle. It may have moved while driving as it was really loose. But the problem is still there. If the choke is not on, the car will stall if not in gear and slowing down or if you're idle and stopped. I have a Haynes manual that's in the mail at the time. Hopefully it'll be here sometime next week, but I was wondering if anyone has had this problem before and/or they have any ideas.

Cheers,
Serge

'86 750L FIRE breather

Check that the vacuum advance cartridge on the distributor to see if it's diaphragm has popped:
try blowing through it with the hose which would normally connect to the carburettor. (You can suck if you want to - as suggested elsewhere - but I don't like the taste of petrol.)

That may well be the reason why the pipe was plugged - you get a bad inlet air leak ( as well as the lack of vacuum advance ), both of which are bad for tick-over.

I couldn't comment about which screw to adjust, as I am unfamiliar with the 750.


Regards


John H

Does your Panda come up to proper operating temperature? When I got mine it would often stall at idle w/o choke, the heater gave luke warm air etc. Replacing the thermostat let the engine get to proper op temp, heater worked, fuel consumption dropped, idled properly w/o choke etc...

Sounds like you've had a kid on your car....people who hear of road side fixes, then use them in the wrong situation. The disconected vacuum line with a screw in it, for no aparent reason, is a good indicator. If you look in your Haynes, when it arrives, look under carb rebuild. Check if the screw w/ hole is meant to be seated, or loose, and if loose, how many turns backed off from seated.

I don't suppose it's the jet/needle, but is it the idle air adjuster you're playing with?

Justin- who really thinks all vehicles would be better if fitted with a sidefloat chamber AMAL carb- like on my Matchless- SIMPLE!

That´s not the mixture adjustment you moved, that screw actually touches the float if you take the carb apart(the screw is located over the float and comes out by the air intake, right in the middle). The idle adjustment screw is by the throttle linkage on the bottom side.





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