Is anyone able to help with my Doblo?

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Is anyone able to help with my Doblo?

Good to hear its behaving now :)

I didnt recognise that wired block you found.. the radio issue and it might be related..

Anyway.. putting a different cd unit in there
Will soon prove or disprove..

Charlie

Damn! Came out this morning and it's on the blink again.

I've disconnected the battery again, although I think the radio solved a lot of the issue since it worked fine all day yesterday, I drove it and had it running fine for about 11 hours yesterday. So not quite sure of the problem that's caused it to go overnight
 
It might be a bad connection somewhere in the loom near the radio, and removing the radio improved the connection enough to make it work yesterday ....It can a devil of a job to find faults like this ..keep on with it you will crack it ...
 
Time to delve into the fascia.
Get access to the instruments, and check any earth connections from that module. Might have a separate earth, or might be a poor connection onto the circuit board. Would help explain the instrument activity, or loss of it, when the fault manifests.
 
Quick question to rule out heat. When it works and powered up but no engine on. What happens if you leave it like that for a while? Does it power down? Next try same this time leave it stationary. Perhaps movement when driving pointing at wiring? My guess is imobiliser issue. Does unlocking it when running keep it going?
 
Sorry for the late reply.
I did take the instruments out and had a quick look but not for very long.
And I haven't tried it when it works but no engine on honestly, I'll have to get and have a look. And normally I don't actually drive anywhere with it when it decides to work, I just leave stationary and idling but the engine does vibrate a lot so I suppose it could be doing something. I'll definitely have a look.

Yeah it does seem to be immobilising itself so is possibly a fault there.

I have dropped it to my local garage now for him to have a look but over the weekend I can go down and have a mess around to test a few extra things as it's parked outside and he can't do anything until Tuesday anyway.

I'll check later what happens if I leave it and don't start it and hopefully there will be an interesting outcome
 
Hello everyone. So I managed to get a workshop manual and it seems to me that it the problem is probably the BCM as everything that goes faulty is directly controlled by that.

I know it has to be linked to the ECU and have the correct key etc however I cannot find a kit with it all on eBay etc.

I have however found ECU kits for Puntos and after hearing the Doblo is literally a punto I managed to find ECU kits for a 1.9D N/A Punto and had a look on google and the engine is the exact same, so just wondering, Would the ECU kit work on the Doblo from a Punto?

The part numbers are all the same except the ECU part numbers which are only a couple of digits different but they still have the same Lucas ECU and being a non turbo it should work right?

Any advice would be great
 
Used ECU kits should contain both the engine computer and the body computer, and a full set of keys and locks. Once fitted, the car effectively becomes the donors identity.
That works as long as the donor is of the same spec, or a higher spec, as you can disable features if they're not fitted, but a lesser ECU may not have them programmed to be able to be enabled.

If you fit a kit intended for a Punto, it will effectively become a Punto. There will be questions to be answered.
Is the kit, BOTH ECUs? If not, it is unlikely that your body computer will properly talk to the Punto engine computer. But it might, if it is just a basic engine management unit, although we do not know how it will take the immobiliser information, as both ECUs need to agree before accepting a key.
To operate the doorlocks, I'd guess you'd need a Punto 5-door ECU, but do they send the same signals to the van door locks?
Even if the ECU plugs are the same, so will plug in, have Fiat used the same pins for the same purposes? This could be difficult to determine, unless you are willing to pore over wiring diagrams for both and compare every connection and wiring route. Fiat might use different colour wires on the different vehicles, for the same purpose. Fiat are not known for consistency.
There are probably lots more compatibility issues, these are just off my head quickly.

After spending hours studying wiring diagrams, it might all work, so if you have time, good luck with the homework. Or if the price is right, you could just plug and play, and see what occurs. Couold be exciting, or a can of worms. Take care.
 
Hi, I will put changing parts on the back burner for a while while I research.

Today I removed the BCM again, and checked the circuit board for a broken connection anywhere but everything seemed fine. So I turned to the wiring, After looking at loads of wires some were slightly bent and looked pinched so I straightened them out, and went through every wire that goes to the BCM and fusebox. When putting it back in, everything worked as it should, like it normally does when I reconnect the battery, except now its not reading the key which is driving me crazy, I took everything back out to double check the wires to confirm I hasn't pulled one from the pin, and especially checked the wires I know go to the immobiliser, But had no luck again.

I know its definitely down to me touching it because before I did this I had started it fine and then I removed battery before beginning to fiddle around. Such a huge annoyance as it was all working fine before hand
 
It is possible that copper strands have broken inside the insulation causing an invisible broken wire/open circuit
 
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Turned out I had knocked the little switch down by the door for the cut off,
So when I pressed it back in everything worked as normal again.

Now the van is working for about 12 hours before the electrics go weird so something I have done has definitely made an improvement compared to the original 4 minutes or so.

Although Im not sure what has made the improvement so hard to look further into solving the problem.

I'm considering just disconnecting the battery whenever I park it to allow another 12 hours of use but this is very much a risky thing to do as I am still unsure about the reliability of the van in the long run, Don't want it to just die on me again.

I'm really stuck as to what it could be, without replacing every wire I have tried most things and checked the wiring visually but there still seems to be no obvious cause (n):bang:
 
And this stopped it reading the keychip..?

Theres a clue there..

Im not too sure if that's a possible cause though. When I clicked it back in everything worked fine again.

I think its because it cuts off the fuel pump so it was possibly just a warning that it had cut off, as the light for the key stayed on rather than coming on for 10 seconds or so and then off when it doesn't read, Don't think it was the actual non reading of the key chip
 
Do you remember knocking it, or are you assuming that's what must have happened?

Could it be a faulty switch, that disconnects over mild bumps?
Next time the van cuts out, try cycling this switch.

Yeah I do remembered knocking it as there's an earth block below it and I undone the bolt from the frame to make sure it wasn't corroded and as the bolt came loose I smacked the switch
 
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