New to Fiat diesel

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New to Fiat diesel

drpancho

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Hi, I'm Pedro from Portugal. Recently just moved and will have a long commute to work making my current Busso a weekend car only.
I plan to find an old diesel suitable to run on wvo and was looking into Peugeot 106 or corsa b.
I would like however to get confirmation that fiat 1.7 and 1.9 td diesel engines are capable of running wvo (100% or mix).

I'm specially interested in running a 155 1.9 Td but could live with a punto 1.7 td.

I would also like to know if there's any page/site/book dedicated to these engines since I can't find much info about them.
 
WVO.. not a phrase I recognise

http://bfy.tw/OV8r ;)

Welcome to the forum, I remember there being a lot of discussion about WVO fed diesels 10+ years ago when I first started driving, the discussion is much diminished now though. I do remember that people said it wasn't recommended on the 'later' JTD/MJet/etc engines but you should be fine on the old 1.7/1.9 lumps.
 
Hi And welcome :)

The 1.9 was popular in the tipo and tempra.

But is OLD.

The td100 of the bravo marea was ok.. but not as tough.

WVO.. not a phrase I recognise :eek:

Is this vegetable oil?

Charlie

Hi , yes ... WVO stands for wast vegetable oil .
I really need to go low/old tech so that I don't mess up new expensive systems that I can't afford to repair :D
 
Welcome to the forum, I remember there being a lot of discussion about WVO fed diesels 10+ years ago when I first started driving, the discussion is much diminished now though. I do remember that people said it wasn't recommended on the 'later' JTD/MJet/etc engines but you should be fine on the old 1.7/1.9 lumps.

thanks , in the meantime I tested a 155 but it was in a really bad shape .
Also my wife doesn't like the "sedan" format .
 
If running WVO then I would suggest not going any newer than 1995 - 99 you might find an old punto 1.7.

Newer engines tended to be more modern common rail set ups. Even then you may need to look around the net to find out what fuel pumps are ok with wvo, I remember in the mid 2000s this being all the rage and one car would be ok when another one would be destroyed all because of the types of seals used in the fuel pumps.

If you modify the oil it opens up a broader range of cars which will run it, but then you may be liable to pay tax (modified veg oil in the U.K. is still taxable as a fuel)

These days for all the effort, storage and mess, as well as having to run an old car which will require higher maintenance costs because of age and because of the oil you’re burning, there isn’t a lot to gain from burning wvo.

WVO is far better in a heating system or water heater than a car. (IMO)
 
Hi Andy, yes an older car is what I'm looking for.
I don't have a problem with old cars since I love the freedom of actually doing some maintenance/repairs. From my experience even though the cars might require higher maintenance than a new (equivalent)one it's usually cheaper to maintain an old car (DIY) than just servicing a new one.

I'm not a fan of diesel let alone WVO but I'm willing to give it a try for the daily commute since there's no added value in using a high tech (expensive) diesel car to commute at 30mph. Also, the car is to remain at a parking lot unattended for several hours (so it's a bonus if it's an unattractive car)
 
Around Y2000, I was involved with biodiesel and waste vegetable oil. The precombustion chamber VWs loved the stuff. Biodiesel was better but WVO was a good second best. If there is a catalyst, the exhaust gas has no smell what-so-ever. Fuel consumption is about the same as dino diesel.VW TDI and PD were great. Others(?) who knows as most manufacturers would not warrant biodiesel. A friend needed the head gasket doing on a VW 2.4 showing nearly 200,000 miles. The engineer could not believe how clean the engine was and after doing the repairs set up his own biodiesel plant.

WVO must have hot fuel oil and it's own (heated) fuel filter or the injection system will not cope. You need to start on normal diesel and switch to WVO when engine is fully warmed. You need an additional accurate engine temp gauge to know when to switch. You also have to switch back a few miles before arriving so the WVO gets fully purged. Its a big hassle only worth doing if you do long journeys.

The recipe for biodeisel is here https://www.answers-to-your-biodiesel-questions.com/Biodiesel-recipe.html


Assuming the engine and fuel systems are compatible there is no problem.
BUT -
Biodiesel strips waxy deposits from inside the fuel tank leading to clogged pipes and lift pump. You have to properly clean the fuel tank with caustic soda and hot water = tank off the car to do it.
If the car is not compatible you will quickly have leaking fuel seals and O rings. All rubbers go hard very quickly in methyl ester. Even silicone rubber can't cope. The ultra fine injectors of common rail systems might be ok as methyl ester is a good lubricant. Tell us how it goes. ;)
2 litre pop bottles are (clearly) not convenient. You can make a successful batch processing system. But its a lot of work and you have to dispose the crud from the waste oil and the soap byproduct from the biodiesel.
Bulk methanol is hard to get today because its used for methamphetamine manufacture. Its also a nasty neuro toxin. Waste vege oil still has to be properly cleaned. The best way is boiled over water - you can imagine how that smells. Methanol and caustic soda mix is a paint stripper that will painlessly burn holes in your skin.


If you want to save money on fuel, a liquid phase LPG system is by far the best option. Cheap and easy to install though you might have to remove the intake manifold to fit the gas injectors. Gas phase systems are a bit cheaper but more hassle to fit and less economical.
 
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