500 Clutch Issues

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500 Clutch Issues

Klankelly

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Evening. Apologies as I am sure this request is in wrong section of Forum ? Here goes anyway - My Daughter just bought 2010 Fiat 500 1242cc POP. One major issue is clutch ! Appeared to lose Clutch all together - mechanic called, recovered and said it had been leaking hydraulic fluid from a small reservoir on left hand side of engine. Seemed better for a day then biting point was just off the floor - stalling and crunching ! Another mechanic drained fluid, said there was an airlock. Worked great for a couple of days then back to biting point on floor again ? What is going on ? Should we replace clutch ? 53k miles on clock and otherwise good condition !
Any advice most welcome ?
 
Evening. Apologies as I am sure this request is in wrong section of Forum ? Here goes anyway - My Daughter just bought 2010 Fiat 500 1242cc POP. One major issue is clutch ! Appeared to lose Clutch all together - mechanic called, recovered and said it had been leaking hydraulic fluid from a small reservoir on left hand side of engine. Seemed better for a day then biting point was just off the floor - stalling and crunching ! Another mechanic drained fluid, said there was an airlock. Worked great for a couple of days then back to biting point on floor again ? What is going on ? Should we replace clutch ? 53k miles on clock and otherwise good condition !
Any advice most welcome ?


Hi.and welcome to FF :)

Correct section ;)

Ok.

Sounds like a HYDRAULIC issue.. rather than the wearing components of the clutch.

You have.. :

A reservoir holding the bulk of the fluid

A cylinder..on the clutch pedal

PISTON.. on top of gearbox.. moving the clutch arm.

Somehow.. you are losing pressure from the system.. so the piston isnt able to push the clutch arm properly.

It sounds as if you had work done which has introduced air.. getting this air out is proving problematic.

How am I doing??
 
Thanks for reply. Wife and Daughter been dealing with mechanics ! Think he drained the system - I will confirm ! I will also check fluid level when I get home. Cheers?
 
Clutch hydraulics are a known weak point on RHD 500's (LHD models have a cable clutch; the whole hydraulic system is a bit Heath Robinson and looks like an afterthought).

It's most unlikely there's anything wrong with the clutch itself, but if it's actually leaking, or if bleeding doesn't fix the problem, then I'd recommend you replace both master and slave cylinders; they're connected by a quikfit connector that generally corrodes itself solid within a few months and is usually impossible to either undo or recover.
 
Thanks lads. Reservoir under bonnet is completely empty with no obvious signs of leaking , if that makes sense !
Will get mechanic to check tomorrow and mention what you have both stated. ? Will keep you updated. ?
 
If it's like the Punto,you need to lift the filling filter with the gauze up when you top up clutch/ brake fluid,as the fluid seams to struggle getting throu when topping up. Pull back the rubber boot on the slave cylinder(gearbox end) and check for fluid leaking.
 
If it's like the Punto,you need to lift the filling filter with the gauze up when you top up clutch/ brake fluid,as the fluid seams to struggle getting throu when topping up. Pull back the rubber boot on the slave cylinder(gearbox end) and check for fluid leaking.


An empty reservoir..
Thats enough missing fluid to see:feel

Not sure why the mechanic didnt spot that.
 
Hi, I was driving the wife's 500s a couple of days ago and whilst stood at traffic lights, the clutch pedal just went very light with no function. The fluid level in the clutch reservoir looked ok, but when the recovery guy arrived, he showed me the small leak from the hydraulic fluid connector under the near side wheel arch. Apparently this is a common failure and sure enough the aluminium cylindrical connector was split and leaking fluid.
The car is 3 months out of warranty and I asked my local dealer if they might look at it as a good will gesture, because this is a common fault, (so I'm lead to believe). They were very reluctant to commit to an under warranty repair, sighting possible master and slave cylinder failure etc. (sounding very expensive already)!!!
Instead, I cut out the offending connector and used a good quality stainless steel 8 mm pipe connector (a dedicated 8 mm to 8 mm hydraulic pipe fitting will do the trick) all for just a few quid. Then simply bleed the system through and hey presto, a working clutch pedal.

Hope this is helpful.(y)
 
I've not done a clutch one, but if replacing both slave and master it's easy just need to remove battery tray and some simple nuts, good time to replace engine earth strap too? Just be careful to route the pipes correctly as it's easy to get it the wrong side of some pipes first and only "clip" together the quick connect once happy, takes some force to click in place too. Bleed lots, only remove the slave cylinder keeper once mounted or the plunger can pop out? Master arm pops off the clutch pedal inside the car with a screwdriver or lever.
 
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