Thanks,will this show up on diagnostics or trial and error.
Not sure on diagnostic codes, but this is from the horses mouth, so to speak:
Earlier pre 2009 EGR valves were prone to sticking, but improved since that date and rarely a problem. Although DTCs may point to EGR valve issues it is invariably the Throttle Body or Solenoid Valve that is at fault. As you have had two fairly recent EGR valves fitted it does suggest the chances of a faulty EGR valve as being extremely remote.
Always worth checking the air intake and filter housing for evidence of mice nesting, as this is not unknown. Check wiring loom below the nearside headlight for any evidence of damage, and also condition of the engine earth strap. Often replacing this, even if it looks OK, can resolve a number of niggling apparent electrical faults.
The test for the throttle body is to remove the rubber pipe on the left hand side so that the metal flap inside the throttle body can be reached with your fingers. If it moves very freely and returns unaided to the position that it was before, you may be lucky and it might be alright. If it is even slightly 'sticky' in operation or is stuck or does not return it is broken and will need to be replaced.
The initial units fitted from 2006 were brittle and did not last long. The pivot for the flap was attached in a very weak manner to the actuator (motor drive) and broke frequently. The later revised devices were not much better until 2009 when a completely new and much more substantial unit was offered (and fitted at the factory after September 2009). The only problem with this one is that the electrical plug is incompatible with the earlier loom and requires a converter lead.
The replacement of the throttle body is a job not for the feint of heart. It requires the removal of the front panel and radiator(s) to provide sufficient access. Some of the bolts that secure the body and the EGR piping will inevitably break and you will need to have access to the right kit to deal with that. It will take even a garage that does this job regularly at least 4 hours to complete and you may well require additional parts like gaskets and seals (plus a few screws) to get it done.
This kind of throttle body will not be improved by 'cleaning'. This is an absolute waste of time since the device is normally not just sticking, but broken.
If there seems to be nothing wrong with the throttle body you should go straight to the solenoid valve and replace that. The bobbins used to fix it to the metal plate often break so you may need a couple of those too. Don't forget to remove the little exhaust part from the bottom of the valve and fit it to your new one. The plastic plugs that are inserted in the new one MUST be removed, and there are 3 of them. Make careful note of which of the two pipes goes to which side!