I am new to this site. I have 1996 Fiat Barchetta for 2 years and for few months I have strong gasoline smell in the cabin. I have read previous posts about the problem. My question is: does anybody have any pictures of how to remove the bulkhead and locate the segregator and charcoal filter with the rubber hoses?

Where are you?

Hi Hombre2
Don't have any images, but regarding removing the bulkhead panel, that has been documented on several posts. basically you need to push the seats forward, remove the rear console armrest, remove the two plastic covers that cover the hood mech, remove the black icover that fits over the bulkhead.
The carbon filter is located on the drivers side inner rear wing to remove it. The bolts are located in the hood compartment, undo and remove via the petrol tank area.
The segregator is located under the front passenger wing. remove road wheel, remove inner plastic arch, location is on the opposite side to the screen wash.
Enjoy

hi hombre2 I can help you with the work you need to do . I have been through this task. My car is so much nicer to cruise in now. It is not that difficult to stop the fuel smell from happening and the car will also be much safer once you do. Most everything is left intact but the bulkhead does need to be removed and put back. I live in the Guelph area. You can PM me.

Hi, eramosa, I have purchased new gromets to replace the failing gromets holding the vapour/fuel valves in the top of the fuel tank. I previously revived the gromets with silcon spray but the fuel smell is returning. My question is, do I really need a special tool to remove the valves and gromets? Is there any particular way to extract them without damaging the valves?
Thanks in advance
Steved

Hi StevePD. I can tell you only what I have done here, but it may not be kosher in your case. The fuel vapor solenoid that is operated by the ECM is fastened to the carbon charcoal canister under the passenger fender. The fuel vapor separator is above the fuel tank under the rear wing ,drivers side. Believe me nothing ever goes wrong with the separator it has no moving parts. The two valves on the top of the tank each have a hose attached to them leading to the separator. Then a hose travels from there to the canister and from there to the intake manifold. The real problem is the solenoid stops working, the return fuel rail pushing unused fuel back to the tank pressurises the tank. The whole system is blocked because the solenoid wont open. Do you hear a hiss when you release the fuel cap. Not good. I removed the hose from the valve closest to the separator and sealed the valve outlet. With the other valve next to the fuel inlet I ran a hose from it to the overflow line that runs from the fuel cap down through the floor. The tank is now always at atmospheric pressure. No muss, no fuss, no smell. But as I said it may not be kosher. But at least I know my car wont blow up!!

Eramosa many thanks for the response. I so get a hiss when I open the fuel cap. I will re-read your previous posts, I take it that I will need a ‘t’ piece of different outlet sizes to join the valve tube nearest the fuel filler to the overflow pipe.
If there is anyone out there who has replaced the rubber grommets sealing the two valves in the top of the tank, please let me know how you did it and whether you needed a special tool to remove the valves.
SteveD

Can I just add a note of caution here? As we already know there's no single answer to the fuel smell issue, with my car the cause certainly wasn't the valves on top of the tank or their seals. The fuel smell persisted long after the tank's connection to the charcoal canister and solenoid up front was disconnected and the tank began being vented to atmosphere, and it only stopped after the segregator/separator had been isolated. The separator may not have moving parts but it has seals and connectors for the rubber pipes which attach to it. My earlier posts on this issue probably bored everyone to death so I'm not going to repeat!! Just remember, when you're removing the bulkhead you're aiming to remove it sideways through the door with the seat slid forward, not upwards as I initially tried and failed to do. Hope that helps.

Thanks Cribus all good comments a good previous posts,
If there is anyone out there who has replaced the rubber grommets sealing the two valves in the top of the tank, please let me know how you did it and whether you needed a special tool to remove the valves.
Cheers
SteveD

Hi Steve PD . Once I removed the bulkhead the first thing I did was remove the two valves to see what they were made of and what their purpose was. Once I figured that out I realized the rubber grommets used to secure them had deteriorated . Speaking of that Cribus, is correct regarding the separator, these cars are getting old and rubber hoses can lose their integrity rather quickly.I resealed the valves with Permatex sealant. Yes, I used a plastic t to hook up to the overflow line. Also when I first received the car the fuel pump seal was shot and also needed to be repaired but now everything seems to be finally as it should be.

I thought pressure in the fuel tank was normal. Remember old cars that used to have a small breather hole in the filler cap? You dont see that anymore! Maybe a cheat method would be to drill a small hole in the filler cap.

Hi eramosa, thanks for the response, however, my apologies for being a bit anal but how didyou remove the gromets holding the valves in the top of the fuel tank. I read elswhere that a special tool may be needed to remove them!
Regards
steved

no there is nothing to them. I left the hoses intact so I wouldn't drop the valves and just pulled them out. The grommet stays in the tank so with each ,I carefully pried them out with a plastic trim tool being careful to push them into the tank. I disconnected both lines to the separator and the after resealing the grommets and reinstalling the valves, I capped off the right one(drivers side) with a rubber cap, and connected the other one to the overflow line.
Removing them did not require anything special. Just be careful not to drop dirt into the tank

Hi, eramosa many thanks I now have confidence to pull them out and change the gromets without concerns of needing special tools.
Cheers Steved

I had the same problem recently. The small was only in the cabin.
There was a small hair crack in the top of the fuel pump that allowed fuel to escape and collect in the slight recess in the top of the pump. Took 2 days to find.
New pump fitted and it needed to top down for a few days for the smell to go.

Tom

ERAMOSA and StevePD I have taken out the fuel tank but found it impossible to remove the 2 plastic breather valves from the tank and had to resort to breaking them to remove.
Luckily I have 2 spare ones and have also got new grommets.
How easy are the valves to insert ?
The rubber grommets have a small and large flange which side goes in the tank ?
Also did you put in the grommets and then force in the valves or fit the valve in the grommet and then push home.

Did you need to lubricate the assembly to aid fitting ?
By the way the fiat clips used on the fuel lines are a nightmare to remove, again I resorted to cutting them and will replace with jubilee type clips did you have any easier way to remove ?

Any reply would be appreciated


Thank you

I have just pulled my tank to get it cleaned as there's 10 years worth of old crud in there from it being left standing.
Where did you get the rubber grommets please? And do you have a part number.

Hello

Grommets from Henk at http://www.barchettaparts.com/
15 Euros each plus delivery

mine came out no problem at all and I have abandoned them. The evap system is no longer operative as explained in a previous post. the tank is vented via the fuel cap overflow pipe and the evap feed to the intake manifold has been capped. The car runs excellent and not a hint of fuel smell. not quite kosher but she does less than 12K a year and there is no longer the threat of going out in a blaze of glory

Hi eramosa,
What did you use to seal the holes after removing the vent valves?
Steved