Hi, first post so be gentle
Just swapped out the cambelt on my 2001 Multipla 1.9 JTD ELX.
I'm not a professional mechanic, but able to use a socket set. So, if I can do it, then anyone can.
Just a few notes on what I learned. Hopefully these will encourage others to tackle the job. This is not a fully comprehensive instruction list, just some notes !! Hopefully it will help to keep more of the dwindling tribe of 1.9JTD ELX's on the road (less than 500 as of mid 2019! ).
1). The general advice is to use the belt swap as an opportunity to swap the accessory belt (along with pulley and tensioner) and the water pump at the same time.
Obviously, if you're swapping the cambelt, then you will be replacing the cambelt tensioner and pulley as well (my cambelt came as a kit with those parts included.).
2). Put the car in first gear, apply the handbrake and jack up/prop the front right corner. Take off the front right wheel and front portion of the inner front right (driver side)wheel arch cover or you don't stand a chance.
3). There is an alloy casting that bolts to the engine and is connected the the reaction rod in the upper left (as you face the engine) corner, by the fuel filter. You need to remove this casting completely before you can remove the upper cambelt cover and physically remove/replace the belt. From memory it was held in place with a 16mm, a 17mm and a (?-size) Ribe bolt. Oh and the adjacent camshaft cover was also bolted to it.
3). You can complete the job without any "specialist" tools.
Take off the accessory belt using a long spanner on the bolt head in the centre of the tensioner. Remove the crankshaft sprocket (4 Ribe bolts)
Use the crankshaft bolt head to rotate the belt until the camshaft pulley/cog timing mark lines up with the pointer on the inside edge of the casing.
Make a mark on the end of the crankshaft next to the timing mark on the casing.
These two marks, camshaft and crankshaft, are the two marks that need to be kept aligned with the marks on the casing next to them.
The crankshaft really did not want to move and I suspect that, short of applying a spanner, it wouldn't move.
If you look through the "spokes" on the camshaft sprocket, you will see the camshaft sensor. This, on my vehicle, was help in place with two bolts. The rearmost of these was a 10mm bolt. I found that a 16mm socket, on a 5" extension wedged against the water reservoir, fitted through the "spokes" and over this nut. This then effectively locked the sprocket whilst I loosened the camshaft sprocket bolt. This method also worked for tightening the camshaft centre bolt when it came to re-assembly,
KEEP CHECKING THE MARKS ARE STILL ALIGNED through all of this.
4). When you fit the new water pump be very careful to carefully twist and push the new pump into place. Failure to do this, can and probably will, result in a deformed sealing ring. Once you have fitted the new pump, I suggest you refill the cooling system before refitting any further components. If you have managed to deform/damage the pump sealing ring, it will probably be obvious and quicker to rectify at this point rather than after you have put it all back together.
5). The cambelt covers hadn't had all the ribe bolts replaced the last time the belt had been replaced (sloppy!). I fitted replacement hex bolts into all the appropriate holes and , "hey presto", a bloody annoying, low-rev rattle had gone when I restarted the car after the job !!
6.) When it comes to unbolting the cambelt covers a longish (4" ish) hex key worked well. Accompanied by the customary swearing and cursing, of course.
Well hopefully there's something in that lot that will help/encourage a fellow JTD Multipla owner to 'have a go'.
All the best
Just swapped out the cambelt on my 2001 Multipla 1.9 JTD ELX.
I'm not a professional mechanic, but able to use a socket set. So, if I can do it, then anyone can.
Just a few notes on what I learned. Hopefully these will encourage others to tackle the job. This is not a fully comprehensive instruction list, just some notes !! Hopefully it will help to keep more of the dwindling tribe of 1.9JTD ELX's on the road (less than 500 as of mid 2019! ).
1). The general advice is to use the belt swap as an opportunity to swap the accessory belt (along with pulley and tensioner) and the water pump at the same time.
Obviously, if you're swapping the cambelt, then you will be replacing the cambelt tensioner and pulley as well (my cambelt came as a kit with those parts included.).
2). Put the car in first gear, apply the handbrake and jack up/prop the front right corner. Take off the front right wheel and front portion of the inner front right (driver side)wheel arch cover or you don't stand a chance.
3). There is an alloy casting that bolts to the engine and is connected the the reaction rod in the upper left (as you face the engine) corner, by the fuel filter. You need to remove this casting completely before you can remove the upper cambelt cover and physically remove/replace the belt. From memory it was held in place with a 16mm, a 17mm and a (?-size) Ribe bolt. Oh and the adjacent camshaft cover was also bolted to it.
3). You can complete the job without any "specialist" tools.
Take off the accessory belt using a long spanner on the bolt head in the centre of the tensioner. Remove the crankshaft sprocket (4 Ribe bolts)
Use the crankshaft bolt head to rotate the belt until the camshaft pulley/cog timing mark lines up with the pointer on the inside edge of the casing.
Make a mark on the end of the crankshaft next to the timing mark on the casing.
These two marks, camshaft and crankshaft, are the two marks that need to be kept aligned with the marks on the casing next to them.
The crankshaft really did not want to move and I suspect that, short of applying a spanner, it wouldn't move.
If you look through the "spokes" on the camshaft sprocket, you will see the camshaft sensor. This, on my vehicle, was help in place with two bolts. The rearmost of these was a 10mm bolt. I found that a 16mm socket, on a 5" extension wedged against the water reservoir, fitted through the "spokes" and over this nut. This then effectively locked the sprocket whilst I loosened the camshaft sprocket bolt. This method also worked for tightening the camshaft centre bolt when it came to re-assembly,
KEEP CHECKING THE MARKS ARE STILL ALIGNED through all of this.
4). When you fit the new water pump be very careful to carefully twist and push the new pump into place. Failure to do this, can and probably will, result in a deformed sealing ring. Once you have fitted the new pump, I suggest you refill the cooling system before refitting any further components. If you have managed to deform/damage the pump sealing ring, it will probably be obvious and quicker to rectify at this point rather than after you have put it all back together.
5). The cambelt covers hadn't had all the ribe bolts replaced the last time the belt had been replaced (sloppy!). I fitted replacement hex bolts into all the appropriate holes and , "hey presto", a bloody annoying, low-rev rattle had gone when I restarted the car after the job !!
6.) When it comes to unbolting the cambelt covers a longish (4" ish) hex key worked well. Accompanied by the customary swearing and cursing, of course.
Well hopefully there's something in that lot that will help/encourage a fellow JTD Multipla owner to 'have a go'.
All the best
