Hi all, after reading all the horror stories of how hard the clutch system is to bleed...I thoroughly agree! I tried all the usual tricks, and even made a pressurised reservoir cap to force fluid through, all resulted in failure. About 2 litres of brake fluid wasted. Tonight I tried something even simpler and it worked first time - just attach a clear PVC pipe higher then the reservoir to the bleed nipple, support it from above, and fill the tube with a syringe. Open the bleed nipple (clip up, pipe out half way etc) and sit back and watch the show - the fluid will run back in under gravity, just keep topping up the tube as the level gets toward the reservoir level. Clutch pedal now feels solid and slave cylinder extends!! I posted a youtube video of this: just search "fiat multipla clutch system bleeding"
Hope this helps

Simple, and ingenious. Thanks for posting . Presumably the fluid level will gradually rise in the reservoir until it eventually matches that in the PVC tube?

How many Multiplas are there in New Zealand? It looks as though you haven't made sufficient posts here to be able to add links, so to make life easier:

Thanks for adding the link Fiat sold the mk1 shape Multipla here - in low numbers, but they were well priced at the time for a Euro MPV at about NZ$40000 in 2003 (~GBP20000). 80% JTD, not many petrol ones. I looked for ages to find a mk2 replacement for our ageing but reliable mk1, no joy so ended up importing one fomr the UK 18 months ago. What a disaster - despite having an independent garage do an MOT check (particularly with corrosion in mind), it failed compliance here on underbody corrosion and rear arm bearings. The whole rear subframe was Orange. At the time all the local sandblasters were booked up, so I stripped it myself and did it the hard way. The car is still a relative lemon, lots of niggles At this end of the world, forums like this are a life saver as there's just not enough local support/knowledge. Ordering parts from Ebay has made a big difference also, faster and cheaper than going through the dealer network.
BTW - I'd really like get the aircon working - but multiecuscan doesn't talk to that ecu...any ideas welcomed!

What's not working on the aircon? Do you hear a 'clunk' from the engine bay when you turn it on? Have you got the basic aircon, or climate control?

Have you still got the mk1?

WMF - looks like 'tinternet is no so quick getting down under . . .
George

replaced the master on my clutch as the pedal went to the floor with no leaks on any pipes, tried to change the guts first with no luck. trying your bleeding technique now with unfortunately no luck, have run a full bottle of fluid through the system and still no pedal :bang:
but thanks for the tip

How much travel are you seeing from the slave cylinder rod, when you press the clutch pedal to the floor?

JCMNZ - Did you leave the pedal up or pin it down? (as in the old method)
I'm trying to get my head round your method. I can see the basic's of it so
it sounds bang on, but with the pedal left up it could trap air in the void at the top of the M/C.
George

Wish there was a method that worked first time. I always seem to get there in the end with pressure bleeding but it never confident.

Reverse bleed seems best, but I never had the kit for it.

I need to try this reverse method again with a larger tube. I had 6 mm OD and it did not work.

I'm about to give this reverse method a go. I'll let you know how I get on.
I'm curious to find out if the pedal needs to be up or down for it to be successful.
Later . . .
George

If the pedal is down, won't that close off the feed port on the side of the master cylinder?

Sorry mucka, just got back from Scotland.
Don't know is the short ansa.
When pressure bleeding it's part of the routine, so I assumed it might be similar and jmcnz didn't clarify whether it was or not a requirement.
Best way = suck it and see
George

....or in this particular case: Push it and see