Technical Advice on Clutch,DMF and DPF

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Technical Advice on Clutch,DMF and DPF

Small update. Engine management light came back on again. I have torque app and it read a code of P2002 which is a diesel particulate filter efficiency below threshold. Getting to the point where I'm losing patience with this trouble some car.
 
Turns out the aftermarket dpf is no good. Doesn't register the percentage of dpf so isn't possible to regenerate. Planning to try and send this back and then send original off for professional clean. If that does not work I am completely lost as new one will be loads of cash.
 
Hi everyone. After getting the original dpf filter professionally cleaned yesterday for £240 I have had this fitted to car today and now thrown up code P2085 which is the pressure sensor. I'm now at the point where I feel like getting rid.

Along with a new clutch, possibly gearbox as leaking oil and small weld for rear bumpstop on cone, there is alot of work to be done and wonder if it's worth it.

I've had new battery, oil change, egr valve, tyres, brakes etc.

Any help or offers welcome.
 
hello

i'm new here! I have a 2004 JTD MULTIPLA with a clutch peddal really hard. We had the clutch changed couple of eeks ago but since the mechanic is so far, we're trying to figure out if we can solve the problem at home.

I'm trying to find some clutch bleeding tutorial as a last try.... could you give me some tips? I cannot find the slave cylinder nor how to bleed the clutch or the cylinder.

Thanks in advance

Maria
 
hello

i'm new here! I have a 2004 JTD MULTIPLA with a clutch peddal really hard. We had the clutch changed couple of eeks ago but since the mechanic is so far, we're trying to figure out if we can solve the problem at home.

I'm trying to find some clutch bleeding tutorial as a last try.... could you give me some tips? I cannot find the slave cylinder nor how to bleed the clutch or the cylinder.

Thanks in advance

Maria
A clutch needing to be bled is normally because there is air in the system. Because air is compressible, if this is the problem, you will find the pedal is going a long way down (near to the floor) before the clutch frees and it will have a spongy, not hard, feel to it. Likewise, after you've selected the gear the clutch will "bite" almost as soon as you start to let the pedal rise. This will not really cause a "heavy" or "hard" pedal. Can you be more specific about what you mean by "Hard"?
 
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Hey! Thanhks for the answer!

The clutch pedal is really heavy and hard to push. so hard that the clutch cable broke. That´s when we were told that our clutch would eventually nead to be changed. So we agreed on changing it.
After one week, the gear box was really har when the car was warm. I couldn´t put first or reverse. Had to wait until the car was cold again. So I went again to the mechanic, who put an extra ring to the gear box. It fixed this problem.
But the pedal is becoming harder since then.
We think that we probably spend money with a new clutch without it being the issue.. We don't know.
BTW, since this clutch has a cable, does it mean it's not hidraulic?
Can it be a slave cylinder issue? (We are still trying to find this exact location)

Thanks
Maria
 
Hi all,

Small update. I have now replaced the temperature sensor and this has solved the problem. Plan to take it for a drive this weekend to make sure it stays OK.
All readings were OK. Only thing is that it would not do a forced regen and stopped saying generic error. - Was advised by DAM Motors that this could be due to a software update?? - Anyone shed any light on this?

Anyways, thought long and hard about it and plan to keep this going. I need a new Gearbox (has a leak and whining) and clutch but for the money to fix which I have been quoted, I am not going to get anything better.
 
<snip>

BTW, since this clutch has a cable, does it mean it's not hidraulic?
Can it be a slave cylinder issue? (We are still trying to find this exact location)
<snip>
Maria

Hi Maria,
Left hand drive multiplas (at least the diesels, not sure about petrols and gas versions) have clutch cables whereas right hand drive multiplas have hydraulic clutches. Go figure.Maybe there was no space for a master cylinder in the LHD version. So if your car is LHD there is no slave cylinder, just a long arm, and the cable is connected to the end of it.

The gearboxes are interchangeable though, you just have to move over the bits that are different from the old box.
 
All readings were OK. Only thing is that it would not do a forced regen and stopped saying generic error. - Was advised by DAM Motors that this could be due to a software update?? - Anyone shed any light on this?
That sounds strange. One thing I can think of that could prevent a forced regen is if it the oil quality counter in the ECU is degraded due to the car not having had a recent oil change and ECU oil reset. But I'm sure your garage would know this. Or maybe some sensor reporting an impossible value thus preventing the regen from running? Or some temp or pressure sensor not reporting the expected value change once the forced regen has started? An exhaust leak especially on the engine side of the DPF could also cause issues due to pressure sensors getting unexpected readings..

AlfaOBD can track and plot a custom list of selected sensors and other readings to help diagnose this type issue.

If the manual regen won't run then the automated ones for sure won't either and then you will end up with a clogged DPF again before you know it.

Are any error codes seemingly unrelated to DPF coming up or are there other known issues somewhere or is everything in tip top order apart from the failing regens?
 
Hi Maria,
Left hand drive multiplas (at least the diesels, not sure about petrols and gas versions) have clutch cables whereas right hand drive multiplas have hydraulic clutches. Go figure.Maybe there was no space for a master cylinder in the LHD version. So if your car is LHD there is no slave cylinder, just a long arm, and the cable is connected to the end of it.

The gearboxes are interchangeable though, you just have to move over the bits that are different from the old box.

Thanks!
The clutch seems fine, after we made a deep lubrication.
The gearbox still gets really hard to put First or reverse after a small driving. It's really strange. We drained it and the oil was pretty bad. But still the problem. We drive a bit, the car warms as normal, but it seems that when the car is warm is when the first and reverse get really hard to enter. We're trying to figure out...
 
That sounds strange. One thing I can think of that could prevent a forced regen is if it the oil quality counter in the ECU is degraded due to the car not having had a recent oil change and ECU oil reset. But I'm sure your garage would know this. Or maybe some sensor reporting an impossible value thus preventing the regen from running? Or some temp or pressure sensor not reporting the expected value change once the forced regen has started? An exhaust leak especially on the engine side of the DPF could also cause issues due to pressure sensors getting unexpected readings..

AlfaOBD can track and plot a custom list of selected sensors and other readings to help diagnose this type issue.

If the manual regen won't run then the automated ones for sure won't either and then you will end up with a clogged DPF again before you know it.

Are any error codes seemingly unrelated to DPF coming up or are there other known issues somewhere or is everything in tip top order apart from the failing regens?

Hi, sorry for late response.

Oil has been changed and all counters reset.

No error codes remain on system related to DPF. One this is there but not on dash is climate control which is a bit confusing.

I have dropped the car to DAM motors for clutch and gearbox change now. MPG has improved alot since DPF has been cleaned. was running at around 50 MPG. Dont know how accurate that is mind you.

I guess plugging in the Diagnostics and seeing the percentage of DPF being Blocked would give me some idea as 2 hours driving it on Saturday on motorways would surely of cleared the DPF if it was working correctly??
 
Yes that should work. Diagnostics will also tell you if automated regens are being run and how many miles ago the last one ran. You may want to replace the thermostat while you are doing timing belt/water pump as they are fiddly to get at and always broken. If you are getting less than 4 bars normal operating temperature then it is gone. With the engine running too cool (typically 2 bars with a stuck open thermostat) the ECU may decide not to run the regen.
 
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Yes that should work. Diagnostics will also tell you if automated regens are being run and how many miles ago the last one ran. You may want to replace the thermostat while you are doing timing belt/water pump as they are fiddly to get at and always broken. If you are getting less than 4 bars normal operating temperature then it is gone. With the engine running too cool (typically 2 bars with a stuck open thermostat) the ECU may decide not to run the regen.

Ok, only seen 4 bars on thermostat very rarely. When i dropped the car to DAM motors at weekend, it was showing just two bars and very rarely gets warm. - so guessing it is stuck. - would a new one make the heater warm up alot quicker?
 
I wouldn't say a lot quicker but it does make a difference.
 
I wouldn't say a lot quicker but it does make a difference.

Many thanks for your reply. appreciate the feedback.

Decided that as its in the garage there to have thermostat replaced along with the cambelt and water pump.

That SHOULD resolve the issue.

I will almost be driving a new car when i get it back!! :)
 
Hi all. Big update.

Went and picked my car up from DA motors.

New clutch was fitted along with gearbox. Didn't need a flywheel as was ok. Had cambelt done with water pump and have had a new thermostat fitted.

Drove car home and was very pleased with the clutch and how it drove. Difference is loads. Just a shame it's so windy so couldn't give it a good blast!

Thermostat showed 4 bars fairly quickly and heater was loads warmer also.

Car has had alot of work recently along with cleaned dpf also. The guy at garage said car is in good condition so should last me a few more years now.

Fingers crossed!!! Only concern is this dpf but I will make sure the car has a longer run once a week.

Thanks for all your help everyone. Will post up a picture of my car.
 
If the car now gets to temp it should be able to regenerate the dpf itself
It won't run I'd the engine is below 80c running temp
Ok good to know. The car was toasty when driving yesterday!!
 
As promised. Here is a picture of my Multipla.
 

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That sounds strange. One thing I can think of that could prevent a forced regen is if it the oil quality counter in the ECU is degraded due to the car not having had a recent oil change and ECU oil reset. But I'm sure your garage would know this. Or maybe some sensor reporting an impossible value thus preventing the regen from running? Or some temp or pressure sensor not reporting the expected value change once the forced regen has started? An exhaust leak especially on the engine side of the DPF could also cause issues due to pressure sensors getting unexpected readings..

AlfaOBD can track and plot a custom list of selected sensors and other readings to help diagnose this type issue.

If the manual regen won't run then the automated ones for sure won't either and then you will end up with a clogged DPF again before you know it.

Are any error codes seemingly unrelated to DPF coming up or are there other known issues somewhere or is everything in tip top order apart from the failing regens?

Still getting issues with this car. I have took the car out on longer runs. and last week the engine management light came on. when I rigged up the diagnostics kit it said issue with particular filter and the status of the filter was 100%.

The other error codes showing was Borletti MCC55F climate control which im lost on as cannot clear the code.

Marelli code 2 electronic key was also showing which I cleared - anyone any ideas on this one?

Also it showed brake switch fault which I cleared. I did a forced regen but again it didnt finish the cycle completely as said generic error again. This reduced the status to 89%

I left the engine running and then took the car out on a drive. as soon as i pulled away on main road the car went back into limp mode. - Im guessing as it tried to carry out regen but could not.

I drove the car for an hour on the M4 and when i came off the motorway the car started doing an active regen. The engine management light was still on. I turned round and then drove it a further 30 mins on motorway to try to clear it.

Engine light is still on however. - Question is how hot does dpf need to be to do regen? previously it only got to 200c and lasted 76 secs.

im yet to plug in again and see status.

I am using a mechanics diagnostics kit to do readings but would really like something of my own.

Alfaobd is what people use but the blue tooth dongle i have does not connect. As I would like it on my phone as will always have this on me.

Anyone recommend a dongle for this and any further advice?

sorry to ask continuous questions on this subject but car is doing my nut in tbh lol
 
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