Thanks. That is one I have listed but delivery is extra. I have one at £117 including delivery. There are quite a few aftermarket alternatives includng one by ATEK (Germany) at £79 + £7 delivery. It is quite hard to get an answer when you ask if it is a DAN501 - they usually say 'does it have AC' when the model is 105A and I have said I have it has AC! One ebay company has replied three times without confirming it...

The autodoc ones fluctuate in price everyday and for me when the discount reached 15% the delivery was free.

Autodoc's free delivery option now requires a £140 minimum spend for UK customers, which is a PITA.

Over the past few months, spares prices on all fronts (and especially from the likes of European ones like Mr Auto and Autodoc) have gone up markedly. Something like 20% I'd guess. So if you're looking to buy any larger items like these alternators, I'd be buying them now if you can afford it. Prices are only going UP.

I bought a load of stuff from Autodoc on their Black Friday sale last November; got the Denso alternator for less than £100.

I agree!
If you look on ebay the Denso DAN501 is available from opieoils at £128.90 and from carpartsinmotion at £117.16 both including delivery. Bearing in mind the close on 10% ebay fees I did check on opieoils web site and the same one is £103 incl del so that is the one I bought.
Their picture is a generic one but it was the 105A one. (Beware there are 90A and 105A models and also a 120A one.)
https://www.opieoils.co.uk/search/go?w=denso DAN501
Now the snow is thawing I will try and get on with the job.

I am still up the creek without....
I still haven't got the seized alternator off while I look around for my socket set's extension bar or buy another one to remove the top bolt! My shiny new alternator is sitting here waiting for this and that problem will then be over.

Unfortunately my son's Multipla has developed exactly the same symptoms and is immobile! It started with the same flashing instrument panel and relays clicking. I thought that is easy - just wiggle the fuses in B5. Didn't make any difference
I then explored the suggestion of a bad earth. Removed and cleaned the gearbox connection and the earth point it is connected to and the cable from it to the battery. Thought I discerned some movement in it at the battery end. Used my bus pass to collect a new cable from town. No difference

When I turn the key the lights flash and relays click. When I turn the key all the way all the dash lights go off. There is a definite current drain over several tries as the car's battery went down from 11.9 to 11.3. It doesn't attempt to turn the engine over. I cant believe it but all the symptoms are the same except for the persistent flashing lights.
I noticed when I replaced the battery negative cable that there was a small spark as if something is drawing current
If I pull the 30A ignition fuse I get nothing
If I replace it and pull the other 30A fuse I dont get the flashing but when I turn all the way all the lights go out.

Went out to try again after recharging the battery. It started but the battery charge lamp was going on and off intermittently. I could hear noises from the area of the alternator. After a couple of minutes there was another noise and the engine ran smoother. The battery charge lamp is not lit now and there is 14V at the battery. I suspect the alternator may be on the way out.
I am dare not switch the engine off but will have to soon

Can you swap relays between the 2 cars to try to prove that is not an issue ?

Likely not relevant but maybe useful to others.

When I had problems with fuse box bought a direct current meter clamp and was great for fault finding it goes from mAmps up and 100 Amps helped me find heated mirror was pulling a 11 amps without disconnecting any wiring

£35 from amazon but I will use it for work as well.
UNI-T UT210E True RMS AC/DC Current Mini Clamp Meters w/ Capacitance Tester

Be careful lots of them do AC on current clamp and show DC Amps but it is only when putting in circuit they measure amps, not on the clamp.

Thanks. I turned it off and it started again no problem. The battery lamp lit and the noises and current drain tell me that there is a need for a new alternator. Logged on to opieoils and put in their voucher code xbox10 and got the Denso DAN501 for £93.28 delivered.
Note: The voucher code is about to expire

I don't feel quite so miffed that I have to replace two alternators in a week

Can you see if either of these two alternators have got the classic cracked ribs in their casing?

The first one has a crack across the middle from pulley front to back. Is that what you mean? I haven't yet got under my son's because my axle stands and jacks are under mine

I'm struggling to find a thread that hasn't had it's pictures crocked by Photobucket (spit) but guizzo has a couple that show it in his post:

https://www.fiatforum.com/multipla/229971-replacing-alternator-jtd-115-a.html

A more typical failure is through 2-3 of the ribs around the alternator pulley bearing, so you'll see them when the alternator is viewed end-on.

Thanks. That is like mine. It may have the more typical ones as well!

I wonder if this is all related to a crank pulley that is failing or has failed at some time in the past? All of these cracks look like fatigue failures to me. If the crank pulley gives up and leads to the bag 'o' spanners rattling that we're all familiar with, it's not going to be doing the alternator any favours.

The link to the engine out video seems good on the post link 2 above.

[ame]https://youtu.be/ZeJj3UOY-FQ[/ame]

In that post it also shows a guy putting one in and out on his back from below. (looks warm and dry and no bolting done.)

Both cars done now though I have broken a bonnet release cable

Attached is a how-to on fitting an alternator