Hi guys... first post here so hope you can help .

While checking the valve clearance on my 03 115 JTD ELX at about 60k I stupidly used the cam shaft nut at the end to turn over the engine, rather than clear the crank and use that :bang: It all seemed to move ok, although the cam pulley nut tightened a tad...

All went well (ie valves all in tolerance) but then I started the engine there was an ominous BIG rattle at tickover, and I stopped tha engine immediately. So I've now stripped the LHS of the engine for a cam belt change (which is due soon anyway). I find that I cannot turn the engine on the crank nut to TDC position as it rotates so far and then there is a hard 'stop' which I can't rotate it beyond and I can imagine a valve stopping against a piston...

My plan is to change the cam belt for a new one and use the marks on it to make sure that the crank and cam are aligned (the cam is fine but I see no mark anywhere around the crank pulley on the surrounding casing...) So I will put the cam to the TDC mark and use the mark on the new belt to set the crank pulley position.

My question is - how hard should it be to turn over the engine on the crack nut, and is this the right procedure - so if I still cannot turn the engine on the crank nut does that mean a bent valve and head-off time? I do hope not...

Thanks for any help - I am most concerned...

Heya..
It's relatively easy turn the engine from the crank nut... If your getting considerable resistance there is something wrong... It should be obvious compression only.
There is a timing Mark on the crank... It's not as obvious as the cam Mark and it's at the 9 o'clock position as you look at the crank casing. ( there is a more obvious looking Mark at the 6 o'clock position but this is actually a drain point)
Hopefully you have not damaged anything.
If I were you I'd just re time it with current belt start it and see if the rattle goes... Decide then if it's worth buying a timing belt kit.
Marty.

Thanks Marty. I did look hard for the timing mark at the 9o'clock ; it must be on the side of the casing lip so will look harder. Pouring with rain now so will need to be tomorrow . Yes, I will try the old belt first, re-timing and turning it over on the crank nut.

Quick one; do I need to re-install the aux belt to just start it quickly and listen for death-rattle? Can't see why I need to, but...

Also, to check before I start it and presuming I can turn it over on the crank nut, if a valve is bent will it upset the valve clearances? My thinking (which has already got me to this sad place ) is that if the valve is sticking due to bent-ness it'll stay down and increase the clearance? A have the measurements from just before... and I suppose it can do no harm?

Cheers again,

Mike

Yes the Mark is on the lip.
Yes you can run engine without aux belt and pulleys...you can even leave the cam belt casings off.
Check your valve clearances against what you recorded.., if one is not seating properly though you'll have compression probs I reckon.
Marty.

So, some progress - now I can work on it witout getting soaked...

There were no markings at all on my casing around the crank pulley... cleaned and cleaned I did, but no sign!

I got a new cambelt with timing marks on it for the cam pulley and the crank pulley TDC, got the cam and crank re-aligned (it was indeed a tooth or two out) and it then turned over by hand with a socket on the crank pulley with seemingly good compression on the engine - no mechanical clashes. So I carried on, fitted a new water pump, tensioners etc and then checked the valve clearances and they are all within tolerance.

Started it up and it sounded fine, so fitted all the other stuff back, aux belt and nonsense, and it now drives around well - plenty of power, all the revs and so-forth. So I wonder if I am a lucky 'soul' and got away with it....? What do you think?

Are there any checks worth doing before I finish putting it all back together? Is it possible to do a compression test on a diesel; if so how?

So many thanks so far - I have also downloaded the manual here and made a CD which has been a god-send.

There is no way I could have got this far without this Forum; excellent :slayer:

Mike

Great stuff!
Not sure if you can have a leak down or compression test done on a diesel...surely through an injector orifice??
But I'm not certain...

I'd be inclined to motor on!!
Could have a cracked valve or guide but is it worth a head dismantle just to check??
Marty.

Yes, will drive it around for a while and see if anything untoward starts to happen... hopefully nothing too dramatic does

Googling the diesel compression; yes, it is possible apparently but the kits are expensive (my petrol tester is redundant in this case!) so I will ask my local garage to do one just to make sure.

Thanks for all the help.

Mike