Technical Problem 1 : Coder reader for a year 2000 Multipla

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Technical Problem 1 : Coder reader for a year 2000 Multipla

QinteQ

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My old, but still unmarked multi is starting to have problems. The ' injector ' warning light is on, indicating [ it's down on low end rev's but put your foot down and off she pop's full wellie ! ] a malfunction.

If I lived near Shaun1 I'd take it round, but I'm hundreds of miles away !

- anyone know which plug type [ reg date 06:09:2000 ] fitting the code reader needs, and ;
- which code reader will read a year 2000 multi, and ;
- where the reader socket is located

Any help is appreciated, Richie
 
hello richie
you need a obd2 code reader, but not a cheap one ebay sell some but a decent one at cheapest is at least one hundred pounds! al the readers that are obd2 sockets will read your car and the socket is located at the right hand side of the steering wheel is a little tray for not a lot really lol but where that tray is there is a cover you can pull off and behind the tray is the socket, hope that helps.... if you manage to get it read post the code up here for more info
 
hello richie
you need a obd2 code reader, but not a cheap one ebay sell some but a decent one at cheapest is at least one hundred pounds! al the readers that are obd2 sockets will read your car and the socket is located at the right hand side of the steering wheel is a little tray for not a lot really lol but where that tray is there is a cover you can pull off and behind the tray is the socket, hope that helps.... if you manage to get it read post the code up here for more info

Thanks shaun1,

- I read somewhere the pinout [ number of pins on the obd2 ] was different for the older year 2000 multi's, maybe mine has an old obd1 engine bay type. I've just read elsewhere that the X reg Punto JTD ELX 80 was obd2, so maybe mine is also.

- Also fell in lucky (1) I rang a mate for advice and he has a snap on MT 2500, flash sod !
- Also fell in lucky (2) or unlucky cos the ' injector ' warning light has gone out after 5 days of being on.

I'm going to take it for an hours ride over the moors [ big nasty 1 in 3's ] to see if the warning light comes back on. I'll have a look for the ' little tray ' you mention that should be evidence of obd2 not obd1 - I'll come back here about 9pm and tell you what I've found.

Thanks again shaun1.
 
no problem mate, let me know how you get on, as for the light going out that is usually a good sign, it means that the car did detect a fault but know feels the fault has been rectified if it comes back on it could point to a loose connection etc, so for example it says engine temperature sensor, check the wires arent loose first and that the connections are clean and sound so if you have it read try that first
 
I'll come back to : "" loose connection etc, so for example it says engine temperature sensor ""

- 1/2 hour onto and 1/2 hour back,chewey hairpins, big banks, plenty of pull needed by the engine. Faultless, absolutely no probs and it's only a little 105 SX, and it performs as well as my very pokey old 110 ELX used to. So ~ no ~ I couldn't re-produce the fault.

- diagnostically : the car had an intermittent fault for about 3 days, which seemed to happen when going over a little bump in the road [ not big speed bumps just the tiny sort of bump on any road even a motorway surface ] this eventually meant that the ' injector ' icon became a permanent feature. It's interesting that you say ' loose connection ' because it seemed to start with those little bumps !

There is a obd2 socket exactly where you said !

Where is this engine temperature sensor ?
I'll have a look at my ePER when I've hit the send button with this message !
 
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i worded the reply a little bit awkward, i was using the engine temperature sensor as an example for a code, im not saying that is the problem what i meant was when you get the code and the corresponding problem for the code stored in the ecu check them connections, hope that makes a bit more sense.

as for the light coming on over bumps then yes definately points to a lose connection, any code that causes the injector light (engine management light) the code is stored in the ecu's memory so my suggestion would be have it scanned and post the fault code on here because if there is a loose or faulty connection, when you next hit a bump you could be unlucky and cause an engine short or more electrical problems etc hope this helps but as i mentioned im not saying the temperature sensor is at fault i was using it as an example for what to do once you find the code related to the problem in your car..
 
Ok shaun1, thanks mate.

I thought once the fault had gone the code would not be available.

If it's still recoded on the ECU I'll take it to my M8 on Saturday and get him to read any codes on there, then wipe them.

My car's so old it doesn't have temp gauge / aircon / tach counter, the only luxury's it has are flicky back mirrors, leccy seat and an ash tray.

It looks as nearly good as : http://s577.photobucket.com/albums/ss219/st1vo/Multipla Abarth/?action=view&current=DSC00376.jpg but with the original plastic bumpers, and is the exact same original gray. And it's never been kept in a garage in it's life ! - I love me Multi !
 
shaun1,

There were three codes & descriptions archived :

- P0220 - Pedal Position Sensor
- P1320 - Timing Revolution Synch
- P0404 - EGR

I've had them wiped, the 0404 I can tackle, I'll look around and see if there is any info around on what / where the other two are

BTW it as a Solus ProTool
 
sorry about the delay

p0220- get someone to press the accelerator in and out look in the engine bay and look for the cable connected to the housing when you find the end of the cable that is the throttle housing there should be some electrical connections around that area take them off one by one and give them a good clean and ensure they are back together properly.

p1320- does the car misfire at any point whilst driving.

and the egr as you know is on here all over the place
 
sorry about the delay

- no problemo

p0220- get someone to press the accelerator in and out look in the engine bay and look for the cable connected to the housing when you find the end of the cable that is the throttle housing there should be some electrical connections around that area take them off one by one and give them a good clean and ensure they are back together properly.

- Thanks shaun1, I'll have a go this weekend if it's not kissing down !

p1320- does the car misfire at any point whilst driving.

- no, never known it to other than "" down on low end rev's "" as per post #1

and the egr as you know is on here all over the place

- I always wondered if / when I'd have to do it, but I'm an "" if it aint broke don't fix it man "" :)
 
describe "down on low end revs" i only ask because p1320 is described as ignition control unit intermittent no pulse.
 
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"" describe "down on low end revs" ""

- means that in any gear at any [ no tachometer in this old SX ] speed at I guess, twice the tickover speed of 2000RPM , when I went over a small bump in the road the revs would drop right off. If I then floored the throttle she [ what are cars always female ? ] would pick up her skirts and go off at the usual very very responsive rate of knots.

- this rail motor although it's had it's 10th birthday has only done 8k miles

- I've just googled " ignition control unit intermittent no pulse " and all it finds are petrol engines ?
 
ok i get you now, as i think you know the down on low end revs is the egr valve, but the p1320 is a mystery at the minute i shall have a dig around in a few of my work books and let you know if i find an outcome
 
ok i get you now, as i think you know the down on low end revs is the egr valve, but the p1320 is a mystery at the minute i shall have a dig around in a few of my work books and let you know if i find an outcome

BTW that 8 thousand should be 80 thousand miles :confused:

- that £1500 snap-on kit I used gave it as : Timing Revolution Synch.
- I assumed it would be ECU / synched / engine's cycle timing or whever, I did'nt know these rail motors could advance / retard an individual cylinder's ignition, but I'm not a mechanical type.

When I can work out how to get my ePER to take more than half of the vin numbers it might tell me the problem !
 
sorry about the delay

p0220- get someone to press the accelerator in and out look in the engine bay and look for the cable connected to the housing when you find the end of the cable that is the throttle housing there should be some electrical connections around that area take them off one by one and give them a good clean and ensure they are back together properly.

p1320- does the car misfire at any point whilst driving.

and the egr as you know is on here all over the place

It's definitely the Throttle Position sensor [code 0220]

A mate loaned me a snap-on ETHOS, I got the ' injector icon ' [ error 0220 ], cleared the code and took the ETHOS out with me every day until the error appeared again, pulled over re-read and yes, Throttle Position sensor [code 0220].

- ere : http://www.shop4parts.co.uk/?name=store&op=Results&keywords=throttle+position+sensor
- I've looked at the diag in autodata and the potentiometer itself is just above the accelerator pedal, there is also a wiring / module, anyone know where it goes to?

- anyone any ideas other than changing the unit out which costs £100 ? anything else that goes wrong in the wiring / terminals etc.
 
Follow on, problem still not resolved, but this may help others !

- the code 0220, there is not a cable going to the engine compartment, the rheostat sends a series of ohms values to the ECU which in turns transmits it to the engine. [ anyone wants these values ask ! - I have them ]

- the wiring from the Throttle Position Sensor goes straight left to the passenger side bulkhead to an 8 pin connector.

Now this is the bit that may help others. Apparently 9/10 times this connector is making a bad contact and most garages just solder the wires together. Saves you £100.

But not in my case, looks like the TPP wil have to be changed, the connector was in perfect nick !
 
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