Hi

Was driving fine and then heard a rattle noise coming from the front of the car. Pulled over into a car park and stopped. It sounded like some gravel had jumped into the grill at the front and was rattling about but fairly loud.

Anyway when i looked at the front i could see a cable hanging down through the drivers side of the front grill. I popped the bonnet to have a look. There appears to be two wires with a connector at the end that's come loose from somewhere. Looked everywhere to see where it can possibly go but with no luck. The wire isn't that long so it can't have come very far. The wire seems to be a spur from the main cable, with a connector going off to where the fan belt is. At the end of the two wires is a square block with a thin wedge coming out the centre - bit like a wide flat pin but appears to be plastic like the block so puzzled as to how it could make a connection with anything. There is a metal wire clip that runs around the block housing.

Any ideas? When i turn the ignition the engine turns over and sounds strong but just doesn't start. There are no warnings on the dashboard indicating any problems. I'm stumped?

Only other problems we've had with it over the last 6 months is that the drivers side indicator gets stuck on sometimes if you use the remote central locking.

Grateful for any help.

Ian

any chance of a picture of this 'plastic block thing' ?

right have to work out how to get a piccy on here - off to go take a snap now

http://img9.imageshack.us/img9/7892/dscf4385.jpg

here's the link for the image. Thanks

Have you reversed that image?

im thinking thats the rad at the front right?
is this spur coming from the wiring from by the headlamps ?
if so it may just be the foglight cable if you dont have any and just coincidence you have spotted it when your problem appeared.

no i've not reversed the image, and yes thats the rad on the bottom right of the pic. the spur does come from the really thick cable that has spurs off for the headlights and indicator etc but it ain't the foglights as i have them and they work. i've had the vehicle jacked up and had a good look but i ain't got a clue.

in the image you can see the horn, just below the connector block. i've moved the block up so i could take a photo but it was hanging right down by the side of the rad when the problem occured.

just another quick thought. after i stopped to check the rattling noise i moved this connector and secured it out of the way, the car started and the noise had gone, however after moving a couple of metres it stalled and then that's when it wouldn't start. I'd been driving for about 1 minute when the problem happened and so the engine was cold.

It wouldnt explain the knocking but is there a sensor on the rad missing some wires?
im not sure it has a sensor on it but it could well be the fan wiring maybe?

JTDman - not too clued up on this type of thing - can you explain your last post for me? is there a sensor missing from the rad?

No im not saying its missing but there is prob a wiring connector in that area for the rad fan , just thought it could be whats fell off.
Ill go look at mine see if i can find out.

Hi. I've had the car jacked up again and looked under. There are two connectors running to the rad fan which seem ok. There isn't much play on the 'loose connector / sensor' as it will only move a max of 6-8 inches in each direction due to the length of the wires. One of the wires is grey and green, the other is black / green.

can anyone tell me where the fuel cut off switch is on a JTD. The owners manuals says that it's under the dash near the drivers door, however the diagram is a LHD - I've looked and looked but can't find it.

I was thinking it might be worth a go.

IanC123 said:

no i've not reversed the image, and yes thats the rad on the bottom right of the pic. the spur does come from the really thick cable that has spurs off for the headlights and indicator etc but it ain't the foglights as i have them and they work. i've had the vehicle jacked up and had a good look but i ain't got a clue.

in the image you can see the horn, just below the connector block. i've moved the block up so i could take a photo but it was hanging right down by the side of the rad when the problem occured.

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Hiya, just had a look underneath the bonnet. I have exactly the same connector hanging down. There's nothing connected to it, it's just a spare in the loom for different model etc. Mine hasn't got the connection protector on like yours has though and is very mucky
Good job it's not needed

Just had the mobile mechanic out. Ran a diagnostic and came up with two faults.

380 - Plate Heating Relay
1320 - Timing Sync

The timing belt has snapped. It's a 1.9 JTD so have to wait and see what damage has been done etc.

He's said presuming the engine isn't totally shot he reckons it'll be between 500-800 quid to make good. Does that sound about right?

It's on a 02 plate with 85k miles.

oh dear

IanC123 said:

He's said presuming the engine isn't totally shot he reckons it'll be between 500-800 quid to make good. Does that sound about right?

Click to expand...

If you're very, very lucky...

engines (petrol & diesel) for around £300-350 on ebay. Stick on new belt/tensioner/phase sensor before fitting if you go down this route.

Do you reckon it would be better to go down the route of replacing the engine rather than fixing the exisiting one?

He's quoting up to £800 to fix - that's supply and fit all the parts and service (not inc electrics etc).

If replacing the engine - Even if i were to pick up all the parts for £500 wouldn't the labour be more than £300?

In any event, what's the odds the engine is totally shot anyway once he gets a good look at it?

Bin it! , fiat/alfa engines dont like throwing their belts at all! if you go down the repair route then yes you will have a great engine at a lot of money but a quote at the start of the job does not allways remain the same.

When the belt goes it wrecks all the valves and poss the giudes , personally id enjoy rebuilding my own if i had the time but pay someone NO! there is no way id change the top end over without replacing the shells for the crank at a bare minimum or as most do after a belt snap you will have a loud knocking from the bottom end in about 6 months time.

BOOKLADY! NEW ENGINE OVER HERE PLEASE