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Technical JTD crank pulley renewal

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Technical JTD crank pulley renewal

missionary

missionary

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I have the infamous workshop CD but the real knowledge is on forums !

I intend to put a new crank pulley, polyvee serpentine belt and tensioner roller on my 83,000 miler.

Are any special tools needed other than the usual sockets, torque wrench, and a torx up to I think a 50? As I have not gone in deep yet, does the crank pulley run in a shaft seal that also has to be renewed at the same time too? And I assume all is achieved by removing the arch liner - yes?

TIA
cheers
mish
 
So, 3 days on and no response. Does this mean that no one on this forum has ever done this job?

Mr Moderator, you regularly peruse the postings, can you recommend a thread elsewhere were I might find the answer please? TIA

mish
 
Not to bad to just change bottom pulley ,belt and tentioner.15mm spanner to let the pressure off fanbelt and remove belt.13mm to remove tentioner. 4 torx bolts hold the pulley on, only need to remove them but check and line up the little pip on cam belt pulley,with the alternator pulley. leave wheel arch linner on as it wont help you if you remove it............
 
Hello,

Remove the offside front wheel. You need a 10mm socket to remove the bolts on the small plastic shield. A torx socket for the four bolts on the pulley itself. And finally, a 13mm socket to turn the tensioner to get the belt on/off. It took me about 30 minutes to do the job tonight on my wife's JTD.

Cheers

Ian
 
Gentlemen thank you both.

So if I remove the wheel, that suggests there can be a divergence of opinion about going in via the wheel arch then ?

Considering that I have gorilla proportions, especially my sausage-like fingers, do you both still think I can do it from overhead?

You both mention a torx bit but is it better if I get a set of proper ribe bits?

Although I wanted to get these 2 jobs out of the way for peace of mind with this new (to me ) car, I am hoping it will also stop the slight squeak that I hear with window lowered and passing parked cars, bridge parapets etc. Do you concur please?

many thanks
mish
 
missionary said:
Gentlemen thank you both.

So if I remove the wheel, that suggests there can be a divergence of opinion about going in via the wheel arch then ?

Considering that I have gorilla proportions, especially my sausage-like fingers, do you both still think I can do it from overhead?

You both mention a torx bit but is it better if I get a set of proper ribe bits?

Although I wanted to get these 2 jobs out of the way for peace of mind with this new (to me ) car, I am hoping it will also stop the slight squeak that I hear with window lowered and passing parked cars, bridge parapets etc. Do you concur please?

many thanks
mish
Click to expand...

I get this same noise and have noticed that it is caused by the belt moving ever so slightly left and right on the top plastic pully (the black one nearest the alternator). This seems to be as a result of the bottom wheel, the large metal one with the 4 bolts in - sorry I don't know the names of the parts - anyway, I was thinking of stripping it all down, putting a new belt on and making sure everything is seated properly so I'd be interested to hear how you get on.
 
Ok, well I hope to renew both the crank pulley and tensioner as well as the belt this weekend and will post back - as long of course Shop4parts get the bits to me by Saturday morning !

PS to others - did you use loctite blue or red on the crank pulley bolts and the tensioner bolt please?

cheers
mish
 
FOR VT22

I did the job today, despite other advice, you need to remove the inner wheel arch liner - and you need a couple of very long socket extensions to get to the front bolt too ! My crank pulley had perished in the rubber hub, but it was just cracked and starting to go, so I don't think that was the problem.

I think the problem (indicated by the squeak) was the tensioner pulley tensioner assy. The 2 halves are kept apart by a thin, maybe 2mm, plastic disc. This had worn away totally at the bottom - where the leverage is greatest - and the squeak was obviously the 2 diecast components rubbing together. Therefore the pulley was running out of line, though thankfully not so much that it was casting the belt to one side - yet. But whilst in there I discovered that the upper plastic guidance roller has a tad of play in it, so I will get a new one for there in the next week. I may have taken my time so it took 2 hours. But I guess I could have done it in an hour and will certainly do so when I do the other roller. But relaxing the tensioner while putting the belt over the crank pulley needs 3 hands and a lot of weight on the spanner !

I guess the belt was original and the smooth surface was just starting to crack across its width, so time to renew. And yes, its worth getting a set of Ribe bits, don't use torx.

By the way, you can't replace the tensioner assy without removing the crank pulley, so its best to replace it at the same time anyway I think. HTH

cheers
mish
 
Last edited:
Could anyone give me the part number for the crankshaft pulley, and best place to buy? Mine's on its way out too.

Thanks
 
missionary said:
FOR VT22

I did the job today, despite other advice, you need to remove the inner wheel arch liner - and you need a couple of very long socket extensions to get to the front bolt too ! My crank pulley had perished in the rubber hub, but it was just cracked and starting to go, so I don't think that was the problem.

I think the problem (indicated by the squeak) was the tensioner pulley tensioner assy. The 2 halves are kept apart by a thin, maybe 2mm, plastic disc. This had worn away totally at the bottom - where the leverage is greatest - and the squeak was obviously the 2 diecast components rubbing together. Therefore the pulley was running out of line, though thankfully not so much that it was casting the belt to one side - yet. But whilst in there I discovered that the upper plastic guidance roller has a tad of play in it, so I will get a new one for there in the next week. I may have taken my time so it took 2 hours. But I guess I could have done it in an hour and will certainly do so when I do the other roller. But relaxing the tensioner while putting the belt over the crank pulley needs 3 hands and a lot of weight on the spanner !

I guess the belt was original and the smooth surface was just starting to crack across its width, so time to renew. And yes, its worth getting a set of Ribe bits, don't use torx.

By the way, you can't replace the tensioner assy without removing the crank pulley, so its best to replace it at the same time anyway I think. HTH

cheers
mish
Click to expand...

Thanks for this, it's very helpful indeed. I think I might give mine a go soon seeing as you had no major problems with it and the time factor was not great either. I have spent some time looking at my belts going round and my squeak is definitely coming from the belt moving a couple of mm every now and then on the first plastic wheel. Basically if you look at the front of the car with the engine running, the belt goes from the alternator to the plastic wheel then to the large metal wheel at the bottom with the four bolts in. I had the tensioner and new belt fitted recently so not sure why it's playing up again. It's not moving enough to flip the belt off and the squeak is pretty intermittent so it's not life or death just yet.
 
Pleased it helped.

Looks like you have diagnosed the problem. There is no rocket science to doing the job. But perhaps you should sketch a diagram of the route of the belt before you pull it off. If you have another pair of (male) hands to pull down on the tensioner whilst putting the belt back on over the crank pulley, you will be grateful.

cheers
mish
 
I have just replaced my belt deflection pulley and the tensioner. I did not need to touch the crank pulley to remove the tensioner. Just undid the bolt that holds it on the front of the engine and the tensioner came out between of the gap.My engine is a 2005 JTD. Took 10 minutes to do job.

Jack up car, turn wheel on full RH lock, remove inner plastic engine guard, 15mm socket and T Bar on tensioner to remove belt, undo 13 mm bolt holding tensioner, wriggle tensioner out, put in new tensioner and put pip into the hole in the engine, refit bolt and torque, fit new deflection pulley, fit new belt.
 
i have a 1.9 jtd,MW with a rattle coming from the pulley,ive ordered a new pulley,so need to see if this will cure the rattle.
 
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