Technical Multipla no horn help

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Technical Multipla no horn help

multiplamadness

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Hi ive just bought a multipla diesel and the horn doesnt work, tested it at the horn( no power)tested the fuse thats ok, took the airbag off and tested the horn connections( 12v present ) shorted the connections out and it still wont work, im thinking its the horn relay, does anybody know which is the horn relay thanks Peter
 
I've also just got a Diesel Multipla and the horn doesn't work on that either.
Other fault which may or may not be connected is the red airbag light is on.
I'm wondering if somebody has been having a fiddle with is somewhere as the horn push doesn't sit properly on the steering wheel and is 'pushed in' at the right hand spoke and wont move.
 
Yes its connested at the horn end, im just not getting 12v there, i seem to have it everywhere apart from the horn so i think its the horn relay, i just dont know which one it is. The manual shows all the fuses but not the relays thanks peter
 
Mine stopped working a while back, and I found that the wire had broken just where it goes into the push-on connector on the horn itself. I fitted a new crimp-on spade connector and all was well. (The wire to the horn was pulled very tight from the loom, and the bit of cotton tape around the end of the outer plastic sleeve had come off, putting extra strain on the wire. I teased a bit of slack out from the loom and its been fine ever since)
Pete
 
To find the horn relay...
Open the driver's side glovebox and remove the tray inside.
If you look in the far left corner behind the fuse 'rack', you'll see a largish brown coloured relay. Don't touch this one - it's not the horn relay.
The horn relay itself is on the underside of the circuit board in the area where the brown relay is located - look underneath the dash near the clutch pedal and you'll see it. It should be a black one.

I found another one in the top right of the fuse/relay box.
Personally, changing mine made no difference at all.
After running a lead direct from the battery terminal to the mauve coloured contacts on the horns themselves, one had no response at all, and the other gave a short 'dutt'. Both horns are bu**ered. This is quite common when horns are located at the front of the vehicle.Confrimed this with horns from another Multipla which is being broken relatively locally. Replacement horns work.

One note though. The horn contacts run through the clock spring behind the steering wheel. The clock spring incorporates the wiring for the airbag. :rolleyes:
 
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HI
Check the last post of brigbeale find the relay of the horn underside of the board on the left side. This is the horn relay.

The one on the top right side black relay is for the front fog light.

I just found out as my horn was not working until I change the relay.

Both relay is the same 20v small black one. You can exchange both to see its brown or not. My one was damage, I thinks related to the condensation from the air con.

good luck.

 
:mad: Since i have had our multipla (old shape),the horn sometimes worked and sometimes did not.The interior light never worked,checked the bulb and that was ok so was fuse,drivers mirror got mind of its own,dont no if this is all to do with it.
Car been off the road for a month doing bits for mot,new front pads,discs,tyres,drop links,anti roll bar bushes,and a new clutch.Now all ready for mot the horn not working.Electrics not my thing,so any help would be very gratefull.:worship:
 
Mine was the relay burnt out and I am still waiting for the lazy idiot at Fiat Norwich to put the claim through :eek:Three days and he still hasn't done it if I call him today and it is not done there is going to be trouble:mad:If I was you I would check the fuse and relay.There is another horn thread which might tell you where the relay is.Mine is the new shape and things are in differant places:confused:Could even be your actual horn packed up.
 
:mad: Since i have had our multipla (old shape),the horn sometimes worked and sometimes did not.The interior light never worked,checked the bulb and that was ok so was fuse,drivers mirror got mind of its own,dont no if this is all to do with it.
Car been off the road for a month doing bits for mot,new front pads,discs,tyres,drop links,anti roll bar bushes,and a new clutch.Now all ready for mot the horn not working.Electrics not my thing,so any help would be very gratefull.:worship:

As far as the interior lights go, have you checked the roof mounted switch? Mine was melted inside.
 
As far as the interior lights go, have you checked the roof mounted switch? Mine was melted inside.
(y)Funny really,because if i remember right,its since i opened the roof light panel things started.
Just sorted the horn tho,a doggy wire on horn.Get it to the mot station quick,before something else goes wrong.:D
 
Hmm. I bought bikes-for-me's Multipla, and the horn is not working again (and the front interior lights still don't work)

I've chased back the wires to the horn and replaced those as the copper inside was all black. No horn.

I've taken the horn off and wired it directly to the battery. Although the horn isn't loud when you're in the car, it is when you are holding it! The horn works, and my heart only stopped briefly.

I traced the fault to the mauve wire (live) - the earth is fine.

I was just about to give up when I nudged the mauve wire which goes in to the connector block on the top left of the fuse board - and the horn worked! Hooray!

However, it doesn't work again now, which is a shame as it's having it's MOT in an hour.

I think the problem is the connector on the fuseboard, but I can't get the bloomin' thing off no mater how much I tell it that it's a rubbish design.

Any tips on unplugging it? I'm hoping that the whole connector is knackered and also controls the interior lights :)
 
My multipa horn dont work..took it to garage snd they couldnt find the horn any ideas on where the horn is
 
mine stopped working a while back, and i found that the wire had broken just where it goes into the push-on connector on the horn itself. I fitted a new crimp-on spade connector and all was well. (the wire to the horn was pulled very tight from the loom, and the bit of cotton tape around the end of the outer plastic sleeve had come off, putting extra strain on the wire. I teased a bit of slack out from the loom and its been fine ever since)
pete
+1
 
Hi, I have a 2001 Multipla 1.9 JTD. When my horn stopped working and I found out the wiring/switch on the steering wheel was close to the airbag circuitry, I decided not to meddle and fitted a new horn push button switch completely independent of the old switch/wiring . Got a push button, wiring, connectors and fuse from Halfords. Mounted the new button on the lower dash underneath the driver's glovebox. Made a hole in the dash plastic with a spade drillbit to mount the push button.

One (live) wire, with a fuse close to battery, from the battery positive terminal to the new switch. Second wire from switch to horn. Find an existing hole in the passenger compartment to engine bay bulkhead/firewall to thread the 2 wires through.

When I took my car for it's MOT and explained what I had done, the garage said they do the same thing if there's a problem with horn switches close to airbags! Mechanic also said to put the fuse as close to the battery as possible.

FYI: No horn is an MOT failure.
 
Hello widemouthfrog, yes sir I still have the Multipla. Has been running well till last night when the fanbelt/aux belt snapped a few miles from home.
Had fun trying to steer round corners and roundabouts w/o power steering!!! That's why I logged in. Off topic - but how difficult/easy is fanbelt to fit? Can you direct me to the right thread if there is one?
 
Good to hear it's still going strong, especially after all the trouble you had with the clutch.

Remove OSF wheel and the inner wheel arch liner, then this photo shows you all you need to know:
https://www.fiatforum.com/multipla/445862-cambelt-buggered.html?p=4227426
Before replacing just the belt, check that the tensioner pulley (the black plastic one in the photo, with the spanner on) hasn't had it. Give it a spin and a wiggle to check for free movement. Also, open the bonnet and carefully sight from the front of the car (shut one eye type of thing) to line up the top edge of the black pulley with either the other (larger) black plastic idler that's mounted on the block further forward of it, or the bottom of the larger metal pulley that's above it.

Very often the reason for aux belt failure is a knackered tensioner or the plate/bracket that holds on to it bending over time, allowing the pulley to twist so that it points down/to the left when viewed from the front of the engine. This makes the aux. belt slide away from the engine, eventually jumping ribs and ripping itself to pieces.

If the idler pulley is also knackered and bent out of line, that's easy to replace too.
 

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