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Multipla 4th time lucky*
- Thread starter shedenvy
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OP
OP
Thanks WMF,
The fork looked ok and the release bearing was replaced.
I think this is now just a bleeding problem. After I bled it again just this afternoon it was ok the first few presses. Then it got progressively worse until the grinding re-appeared. Will try a conventional bleed from top down tomorrow, perhaps play with some pedal pushes during the bleed and go from there.
If it is the slave I'll definitely be in touch!
The fork looked ok and the release bearing was replaced.
I think this is now just a bleeding problem. After I bled it again just this afternoon it was ok the first few presses. Then it got progressively worse until the grinding re-appeared. Will try a conventional bleed from top down tomorrow, perhaps play with some pedal pushes during the bleed and go from there.
If it is the slave I'll definitely be in touch!
Hi,
Multiplemultis mentioned the bleed nipple on the damper in the clutch pipe which is attached to the bulk head.
Sounds as if air could be being drawn into clutch fluid somewhere.
Could be worth checking in drivers footwell
, pull back dust boot from clutch master check for fluid leak .
Good luck
OP
OP
Thanks Jackwhoo, I will have a go at that bulkhead bleed nipple. Obviously at this point you start to think ”hmm did it need a clutch or was it just not bled properly”
You are bang on about low pressure though as you can see the fluid start to aerate if it flows too fast.
Watched a yootoob Vidya the other week where a guy used a big syringe to pull the fluid from the nipple.
Watch this space.
MultipleMultis
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clear 6mm OD was too small to reverse bleed on slave nipple with big syringe. Cannot tap bubbles out. Kiwi guy had larger than 6mm diameter on youtube.
I sorted out mine with forward pressure bleed recently as that is kit I have, just on slave. It had been sat for 10 months not moving. I think lower pressure comments sounds like good advice.
I dropped tyre to about 18 psi any higher is a bit violent and uncontrolled.
Full 2.4 bar blew the seal and made a mess some years ago!
Good luck
I sorted out mine with forward pressure bleed recently as that is kit I have, just on slave. It had been sat for 10 months not moving. I think lower pressure comments sounds like good advice.
I dropped tyre to about 18 psi any higher is a bit violent and uncontrolled.
Full 2.4 bar blew the seal and made a mess some years ago!
Good luck
You're having some fun with that clutch - ain't we all?
My favourite method is (I thought) universally known and it's easy too...
(What you're trying to achieve, doing what I do, is to get the near-side of the car as high as you can without the off-side wheel leaving the ground, this is because of the way the hydraulic system was built, it sort of faces downhill from the master, with the n/s high it's easier to get the air out) This is also why you push the clutch pedal to the floor, so that the piston in the m/c is right at the bottom so won't hold any air)
Using the Eazi Bleed pressure bleeder (keep the pressure down to no more than about 20 psi (I use a wheel barrow wheel for ease of use)
1: Face the car uphill (if you can) if you can't it just means a bit more faff.
2: Securely chock rear wheels especially the off-side wheel.
3: Use a piece of wood to push the clutch pedal to the floor, jam it on the seat front to hold it.
4: Axle stand at the ready - start jacking your nearside front end up. (I usually get the jack under the frame near the swing arm knuckle - don't forget to use a piece of wood on the jack head so it won't slip)
5: Put your axle stand under the normal jacking point, you might need it if your jack doesn't go high enough.
6: Jack up the car up until the off-side front wheel starts to get 'light' but don't allow it to leave the deck.
(I don't know if you are familiar with how easi bleed works, but some don't have valves to control the air supply and can be a pain operating on your own - if you've got a second pair of hands it'll be a breeze - OR, put a little control valve into the airline from the tyre - I used one from a fish tank air line, it works great ( remember - you DON'T need a lot of air pressure or flow, be very gentle with both)
7: Get your easi bleed ready, 1/2 to 3/4 full of new DOT4, screw your cap on to the brake res, make sure your clutch bleed is ready for action, VERY gently apply air and keep your eyes on both the fluid level and the clutch bleeder.
8: You will see when the air is out by the lack of bubbles
9: before dropping the car, put the clutch pipe and clip back and give it a test prod. Don't worry about the easi bleed still connected.
If you're happy with the feel excellent, if it does feel a bit spongy replace the wooden pedal holder and repeat process.
Good luck
George P/S The bulkhead nipple is notorious for rusting so be gentle if you intend bleeding from there.
My favourite method is (I thought) universally known and it's easy too...
(What you're trying to achieve, doing what I do, is to get the near-side of the car as high as you can without the off-side wheel leaving the ground, this is because of the way the hydraulic system was built, it sort of faces downhill from the master, with the n/s high it's easier to get the air out) This is also why you push the clutch pedal to the floor, so that the piston in the m/c is right at the bottom so won't hold any air)
Using the Eazi Bleed pressure bleeder (keep the pressure down to no more than about 20 psi (I use a wheel barrow wheel for ease of use)
1: Face the car uphill (if you can) if you can't it just means a bit more faff.
2: Securely chock rear wheels especially the off-side wheel.
3: Use a piece of wood to push the clutch pedal to the floor, jam it on the seat front to hold it.
4: Axle stand at the ready - start jacking your nearside front end up. (I usually get the jack under the frame near the swing arm knuckle - don't forget to use a piece of wood on the jack head so it won't slip)
5: Put your axle stand under the normal jacking point, you might need it if your jack doesn't go high enough.
6: Jack up the car up until the off-side front wheel starts to get 'light' but don't allow it to leave the deck.
(I don't know if you are familiar with how easi bleed works, but some don't have valves to control the air supply and can be a pain operating on your own - if you've got a second pair of hands it'll be a breeze - OR, put a little control valve into the airline from the tyre - I used one from a fish tank air line, it works great ( remember - you DON'T need a lot of air pressure or flow, be very gentle with both)
7: Get your easi bleed ready, 1/2 to 3/4 full of new DOT4, screw your cap on to the brake res, make sure your clutch bleed is ready for action, VERY gently apply air and keep your eyes on both the fluid level and the clutch bleeder.
8: You will see when the air is out by the lack of bubbles
9: before dropping the car, put the clutch pipe and clip back and give it a test prod. Don't worry about the easi bleed still connected.
If you're happy with the feel excellent, if it does feel a bit spongy replace the wooden pedal holder and repeat process.
Good luck
George P/S The bulkhead nipple is notorious for rusting so be gentle if you intend bleeding from there.
Last edited:
OP
OP
Thanks George, I will admit I haven't been using inclination to help with air evacuation.
I had a brainwave though:
My pressure bleeder now identifies as a vacuum bleeder.
And my goodness didn't it do a swell job. Pedal feels good but the battery was flat. Charging now so I can assess the results!
I had a brainwave though:
My pressure bleeder now identifies as a vacuum bleeder.
And my goodness didn't it do a swell job. Pedal feels good but the battery was flat. Charging now so I can assess the results!
OP
OP
Definitely the best yet. Bite is low but not awful and the gears select without grinding. Think I'm going to check over the obvious and plop it in for an MOT.
The only thing I'm not keen on with vacuum is the chance of pulling more air in than you're tryin 't gerrout.
As you have found it's only a partial success.
I found thru trial an erra that air like to go up hill - (see, there is a brain cell in there somewhere) - so (brain startin to function, so any thins likely) why not give the air an easier way out?
Me an our kid set about jacking it up and doing as I said, an it worked.
No flies on me - but you can where they've bin.
Good luck
George p/s Good luck for the MOT
As you have found it's only a partial success.
I found thru trial an erra that air like to go up hill - (see, there is a brain cell in there somewhere) - so (brain startin to function, so any thins likely) why not give the air an easier way out?
Me an our kid set about jacking it up and doing as I said, an it worked.
No flies on me - but you can where they've bin.
Good luck
George p/s Good luck for the MOT
Last edited:
OP
OP
No MOT yet, gone an immobilized the Jaguar infront of it by cracking the oil filter housing. New one on order.
Thought I'd fix the 1-2 bars on the temp gauge the only way I know.
Offending top hose with clip removed:
Renault thermostat showing the task in hand:
Mug o hot water to soften the hose and some cv joint grease on the thermostat:
Took some squeezing to get it to here believe me! But it's enough to get a decent land on the jubilee clip ahead of the safety bead on the fiat thermostat housing:
Job done.
Thought I'd fix the 1-2 bars on the temp gauge the only way I know.
Offending top hose with clip removed:
Renault thermostat showing the task in hand:
Mug o hot water to soften the hose and some cv joint grease on the thermostat:
Took some squeezing to get it to here believe me! But it's enough to get a decent land on the jubilee clip ahead of the safety bead on the fiat thermostat housing:
Job done.
That's exactly how I fixed mine. Worked a treat and still does,4 years on!
Cheapest way to fix a stuck open thermostat is to block half the radiator with a piece of cardboard. Of course I have never actually done that
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That's exactly how I fixed mine. Worked a treat and still does,4 years on!
Yep, 18 months on and mine still working well....
Yep, 18 months on and mine still working well....
OP
OP
Well done that man. I always had a nice feeling after successfully doing some work on the ole gel.
Happy motoring bro.
George
Happy motoring bro.
George
OP
OP
Hello All,
If anyone fancies picking up the baton on this let me know.
MOT Jan 2022, 136k.
Faults: Aircon didn't last long after regassing, sunroofs don't work, and the MOT guy was saying the rear radius arm bearings are worn but are not giving any unwanted movement yet.
Clutch good, recent oil, air, fuel filters.
Tow bar & roof bars.
£800 Colchester.
Nowt really wrong, I just want a change.
If anyone fancies picking up the baton on this let me know.
MOT Jan 2022, 136k.
Faults: Aircon didn't last long after regassing, sunroofs don't work, and the MOT guy was saying the rear radius arm bearings are worn but are not giving any unwanted movement yet.
Clutch good, recent oil, air, fuel filters.
Tow bar & roof bars.
£800 Colchester.
Nowt really wrong, I just want a change.
To be replaced with another 'pla, or are you moving on to other things?
I'm sure you won't have trouble selling it for that kind of money. Roundnose models are getting hard to find now and yours looks basically sound.
I'm sure you won't have trouble selling it for that kind of money. Roundnose models are getting hard to find now and yours looks basically sound.
I legit would be interested but theres no room at the inn i'm afraid :shrug: as above though, if you are in the market for a prefacelift (not the biggest market granted) theres not much about. I've had my eye out for a decent one since my daughter was born, been to see a few but not come across one I'd be happy to own yet - really hard to find one with a remotely nice interior still lol
OP
OP
Thanks all,
No not another Multipla, if I win the lottery there'll be a space reserved for a turquoise SX with grey bumpers but for now I'm going to move on and get a Ford S-Max or Galaxy. Stupid dog now warrants a bigger boot with room for the three kids and bikes and what have you. It'll still be old, crappy and unreliable but then again that's all I've ever known!
No not another Multipla, if I win the lottery there'll be a space reserved for a turquoise SX with grey bumpers but for now I'm going to move on and get a Ford S-Max or Galaxy. Stupid dog now warrants a bigger boot with room for the three kids and bikes and what have you. It'll still be old, crappy and unreliable but then again that's all I've ever known!
That's a shame, especially after going to the effort of getting the black one pretty much sorted.
You'll be missed
You'll be missed
