The T-Jet engine should fit the same as the 100HP engine. But get gearbox and all electronics to go with it. The biggest hassle will be getting the 100HP dash to work with the T-Jet computers.

The packaging problem will be radiators. You will need to get creative probably with a pair of 1/2 size intercoolers. One behind each front fog light opening in the bumper.

Consider breaking the car. 100HP parts sell well. e.g. Front bumper alone will make considerable money. New, they cost £350 plus paint plus trim.

If you are selling parts off the car, I'm taking the company pickup on a road trip to cape town ha ha... Seriously.

My biggest concern on the engine swap project on my side is unfortunately the electronics. I would love to keep all the body goodies and keep all lights off but like most of my Italian turbo projects, its probably just going to get a spitronics standalone system... Unless, keep the 100hp engine and body ecu, fit the donor car engine and body ecu and get creative with the wiring. I don't know

Many things to consider right down t wheel sizes. Are those on the 500 bigger rolling diameter? I dont know. If they are different you will have to use the 100HP gearbox or suffer gear ratio issues.

Personally I would break the broken 100HP and put the parts money towards a quick 500. Here;s a list of the issues I can think of there will be many more waiting to catch you out.

The T-Jet engine will need it's own electronics - body computer, instruments pod and key fob. The 100HP key blade that fits your locks can be swapped. You should also take the wiring loom as the 100HP could destroy your new electronics.

Basically you need the whole car so the bits you need can be swapped over including the whole dash if it fits. Huge work and considerable risk of it all going wrong. Great when done but not the easy option.

DaveMcT said:

Many things to consider right down t wheel sizes. Are those on the 500 bigger rolling diameter? I dont know. If they are different you will have to use the 100HP gearbox or suffer gear ratio issues.

Personally I would break the broken 100HP and put the parts money towards a quick 500. Here;s a list of the issues I can think of there will be many more waiting to catch you out.

The T-Jet engine will need it's own electronics - body computer, instruments pod and key fob. The 100HP key blade that fits your locks can be swapped. You should also take the wiring loom as the 100HP could destroy your new electronics.

Basically you need the whole car so the bits you need can be swapped over including the whole dash if it fits. Huge work and considerable risk of it all going wrong. Great when done but not the easy option.

Click to expand...

Heart palpitations whilst reading this #cardiologistneeded

Ya a complete motor change is last resort as that will just incur costs to get it running properly etc a new panda engine is ideal or a rebuild to avoid the hassles of licensing the car again... bit of a pain here in sa for that.

Stripping the car is the last last resort for me. Im going to be taking legal action against the guy who sold me the car due to gross misrepresentation, He sold me the car with full history and promising proof which never materialized, the fact that the belt that stripped its teeth looked to have never been changed which he specifically told me it had been.

So either the car goes back for full refund or I get a big chunk of my money returned which ill then use to repair the car.

How long has it been since the belt was changed

&

Was the belt changed by Fiat or himself/backyard?

It's too late now but the moral is never drive away until you have all the evidence in your hand.

For what they cost these make a lot of sense for checking hidden parts https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/HD-Water...=163906648653c675675acf0f45d0895a9c9b87912c9f


As I understand it, your failure happened at low revs so the chances are the damage is limited to just the valves.

On my Punto the valve damage was on just one cylinder, but many more valves were slightly out of true. From memory I replaced the full set of exhaust valves and just two inlet valves. I had been motorway cruising noticing how good the mpg readout was. I stopped at an exit slip road traffic light and the engine stalled when I tried to move away. The cam belt had probably lost teeth with the revs increase to move away being the final blow. I doubt the teeth all fell off at the traffic lights.

The big problem with the Punto Mk2 HGT was engine access. I had to turn screwdriver torx keys with a ratchet ring spanner just to get the belt cover off. No space for even a 1/4" drive ratchet handle. I also had to remove the head complete with inlet manifold. The Panda should be much easier.

My cylinder head was undamaged - just needed a lot of valves at £20 each plus all the other stuff. I also needed an expensive spring compressor. Today, I would make a clamp from box section tube and threaded bar. ePER should give a good idea of what you need to do.

Justapanda, if you are keeping the panda, im going to pull my motor in a couple of weeks, ill keep you posted, if you are interested.

ChrisPRSA said:

Justapanda, if you are keeping the panda, im going to pull my motor in a couple of weeks, ill keep you posted, if you are interested.

Click to expand...

I didn’t see this reply!! Im finally able to get started on this repair. The car has just been neglected in my parking bay for the last month and a bit... if your engine is still available please let me know!!

Its quite a job but 1.4 parts are not too bad for costs.


Tools -

Torque wrench
Engineer's blue,
Valve spring compressor.
Cam locking tool
Torx bits, Hex bits, Socket set, Spanners, etc, etc


Parts -

Timing belt kit
Water pump
Aux belt and maybe the tensioner - check the bearings
Replacement valves
Cylinder head gasket
Coolant.

If any valves are suspect just change them. Never try to straighten a bent valve even one that's almost perfect. If the business end breaks off, the £20 saved will look very low cost.

There will be lots of "How To" videos on You Tube.

The motor is still available. I lost out on the QV mito as there was a minimum bid amount and the bidding war fell shy of that amount but no worries, next one. The motor is still in the panda, they are super quick to pull out though. Im currently in the states but we have a workshop and can have the guys yank it out for you. Maybe not a bad idea to go see it, start it and drive it whilst its in there. Also do the comp test again if you want to. We have all the tools in the workshop incl diagnostics if you want to scan it through and a lift if you want to yank it up and check it out. Rear main seal needs replacement but you can do it quick whilst its on the floor and wiring loom has seen better days but you can pull that from your car. Also, it has fresh timing belt and tensioner, water pump, headgasket, welsh plugs, all seals front end and all seals on cylinder head replaced, new plugs, oil and filters so i think it would be a good donor

DaveMcT said:

Its quite a job but 1.4 parts are not too bad for costs.


Tools -

Torque wrench
Engineer's blue,
Valve spring compressor.
Cam locking tool
Torx bits, Hex bits, Socket set, Spanners, etc, etc


Parts -

Timing belt kit
Water pump
Aux belt and maybe the tensioner - check the bearings
Replacement valves
Cylinder head gasket
Coolant.

If any valves are suspect just change them. Never try to straighten a bent valve even one that's almost perfect. If the business end breaks off, the £20 saved will look very low cost.

There will be lots of "How To" videos on You Tube.

Click to expand...

Im finding this to be true of it being a job... trying to get the head off now but i cant seem to figure it out... it doesn’t look theres a cam cover per se and its just the head... which my socket set doesn’t seem to fit into the head to get loose....

Ive taken this cover off thinking it would help but nope it just reveals some gears for the cams I’m assuming.

How does one remove the intake manifold. Exhaust seems simple enough but i can only see 5 bolts on the intake I’m sure there should be more though...

ChrisPRSA said:

The motor is still available. I lost out on the QV mito as there was a minimum bid amount and the bidding war fell shy of that amount but no worries, next one. The motor is still in the panda, they are super quick to pull out though. Im currently in the states but we have a workshop and can have the guys yank it out for you. Maybe not a bad idea to go see it, start it and drive it whilst its in there. Also do the comp test again if you want to. We have all the tools in the workshop incl diagnostics if you want to scan it through and a lift if you want to yank it up and check it out. Rear main seal needs replacement but you can do it quick whilst its on the floor and wiring loom has seen better days but you can pull that from your car. Also, it has fresh timing belt and tensioner, water pump, headgasket, welsh plugs, all seals front end and all seals on cylinder head replaced, new plugs, oil and filters so i think it would be a good donor

Click to expand...

Are you just pulling it because of the engine swop or was there a fault found? An engine swop would be easiest route... ill pm you now.

If memory serves me well enough there should be one on either side on top, one in the middle on top and 4 or 5 at the bottom. Get ready to have all sorts of hell scratched out of your arm but a mix between 1/4 inch and 3/8s should get the job done

You will need a mirror on a stick.

However, what about this - swap the whole lump. Job done
https://www.fiatforum.com/classifieds/showproduct.php?product=35898

The images should help with your strip-down.

DaveMcT said:

You will need a mirror on a stick.

However, what about this - swap the whole lump. Job done
https://www.fiatforum.com/classifieds/showproduct.php?product=35898

The images should help with your strip-down.

Click to expand...

This link takes me to an ice thread... but from
A punto sporting - which makes me wonder are the puntos a 1.4 16v with more power? I
Managed to find one at an importers yard which seems to have everything attached ecu would it be worthwhile swop? Haven’t found a tjet engine yet.

I didn’t have the correct spline set to get the head off yesterday so going to go get a set today. Interested to see what damage was done in there. Maybe its salvageable , who knows.

Ive just copied this link from the advert page so it should work.
https://www.fiatforum.com/classifieds/showproduct.php?product=35898

It's in UK so probably useless to you but the images might be helpful.

You will need a Torx/Ribe/Hex 10mm bit set. You can get them for not much money. In areas of poor access, the short bits can be turned with a 10mm spanner.

I have one similar to this. It's cheap but offers a long life with DIY usage. I've had mine since 2010 and not managed to break anything..
https://www.ebay.co.uk/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_trksid=m570.l1313&_nkw=392530392459&_sacat=0

With Star/Torx bits ALWAYS try the next size bigger before use. It's all to easy to damage a fastener with a one size too small driver bit.

From what i remember, the spline bolts that hold the cambox down was a pain to remove as i could not use a 1/2 inch set as it would not fit through the hole. The bolts on my cambox was pretty tightly torqued so i need to turn with a great deal of force. So i got chrome vanadium tbar spline sets as the are super long and ended up using a spanner at the end to rotate. Not the right way but it fits perfectly through the hole and got the job done

One last thing! Take care not to damage or strip these bolts! Mine had two stripped from previous owner and it was mission impossible to remove

DaveMcT said:

Ive just copied this link from the advert page so it should work.
https://www.fiatforum.com/classifieds/showproduct.php?product=35898

It's in UK so probably useless to you but the images might be helpful.

You will need a Torx/Ribe/Hex 10mm bit set. You can get them for not much money. In areas of poor access, the short bits can be turned with a 10mm spanner.

I have one similar to this. It's cheap but offers a long life with DIY usage. I've had mine since 2010 and not managed to break anything..
https://www.ebay.co.uk/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_trksid=m570.l1313&_nkw=392530392459&_sacat=0

With Star/Torx bits ALWAYS try the next size bigger before use. It's all to easy to damage a fastener with a one size too small driver bit.

Click to expand...

I very nearly bought the wrong set of splines today - I didn’t like the amount of wiggle on the spline in thé replacement set of head bolts I got today too. Managed to find the correct ribe bit today though. 2 days later! Life got in the way today so ill pull the cambox off tomorrow and post pics of the damage....

Lets pray most valves are still in tack and pistons did not pickup damage from the valves.

It really is a pain in the butt to remove those bolts. Ps. If i can give you a pointer, When youve loosened all, the cam box should pop off effortlessly. If its stuck it means you missed one and the alliminium can be damaged easily.