Panda 100HP Turbo
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Panda 100HP Turbo
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Quite possibly.
But knock sensors are so useful on tuned engines, I'd be surprised if there is no possibility of fitting one. Maybe it has to be set up with software. Is there a discussion group for the ECU you are running?
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..and a quick update.. the Oil Cooler, remote head, and oil thermostat have all been through the parts cleaner. I've tested the thermostat and it opens and closes when hot and cold.
I was going to put the thermostat plate directly on the block, but it's just a few mm to large, so I'm going to need a remote plate and some pipes. The remote head and oil cooler have been reinstalled (behind the nearside inside wheel arch).
Seems I already have three Stack gauges, it seemed rather an poor idea to install the VDO oil temperature gauge that I had kicking around, So I'm about to obtain and fit a Stack one.
Then it's a question of where to put all these gauges..
PandaHP
I was going to put the thermostat plate directly on the block, but it's just a few mm to large, so I'm going to need a remote plate and some pipes. The remote head and oil cooler have been reinstalled (behind the nearside inside wheel arch).
Seems I already have three Stack gauges, it seemed rather an poor idea to install the VDO oil temperature gauge that I had kicking around, So I'm about to obtain and fit a Stack one.
Then it's a question of where to put all these gauges..
PandaHP
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sider
That's the issue with Pandas - nowhere to fit anything at the dash that wont look rubbish. Even moby fone holders are a problem.
I'm not sure if the space is tall enough for 52mm gauges, but you could consider a single DIN radio and use the space beneath for gauges.
That's the issue with Pandas - nowhere to fit anything at the dash that wont look rubbish. Even moby fone holders are a problem.
I'm not sure if the space is tall enough for 52mm gauges, but you could consider a single DIN radio and use the space beneath for gauges.
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The original three gauges (Oil Pressure, Boost and Fuel Pressure) where in the top half of the radio aperture, with a rather naff single din radio beneath them.
I'd completely agree about phone holders, so that's why I replaced the gauges and the single din radio with a double din CarPlay Kenwood unit. That means that the phone can be thrown on the floor..
Using the CAD system I'd seen on Project Binky, I thought I could mount the gauges in a cluster in the gap between the existing instrument pod and the radio/ar con pod. (see photos below). But now I'd have four gauges (Oil Temp), so I need to re-design..
There are "pods" for sale on eBay for singles or a line of three..
Or I maybe I need to startup the 3d printer...
Or, seems the Kenwood has a reversing Camera input, I could just put all of the gauges in a box, fit a light and an camera and then display it on the screen...
Just need to think about it for a bit. Do you really need a Fuel Pressure gauge?
PandaHP
I'd completely agree about phone holders, so that's why I replaced the gauges and the single din radio with a double din CarPlay Kenwood unit. That means that the phone can be thrown on the floor..
Using the CAD system I'd seen on Project Binky, I thought I could mount the gauges in a cluster in the gap between the existing instrument pod and the radio/ar con pod. (see photos below). But now I'd have four gauges (Oil Temp), so I need to re-design..
There are "pods" for sale on eBay for singles or a line of three..
Or I maybe I need to startup the 3d printer...
Or, seems the Kenwood has a reversing Camera input, I could just put all of the gauges in a box, fit a light and an camera and then display it on the screen...
Just need to think about it for a bit. Do you really need a Fuel Pressure gauge?
PandaHP
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I think I would rather an AFR gauge if you're going to have 3.
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95 and 99 RON or even 87 all have the same energy content. BUT low grade petrol can more easily burn explosively so cannot be used by any reasonably efficient engine without retarding the ignition timing. The knock sensor picks up the noise of pre-ignition and the ECU retards the timing until it runs smoothly. With the spark delayed the peak pressure comes too late and heat is thrown away down the exhaust. Less power, higher consumption, etc.
Some engines are more aggressive on the timing back-off which I believe is why my bike ran so badly on 95RON but was happy on 97 or 99.
When unleaded first arrived it was available only as 95 RON. The lead containing 4 Star it replaced was 97 RON though you could also get 5 Star which was 100 RON. I had a Citroen BX 1.9 GT "retuned" (ignition timing retarded) to accept unleaded and it ran like a dog. There was no knock sensor and minimal electronics in the car so there was no other option. I put it back to standard and accepted it could not reasonably use unleaded without significant work on the engine.
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Can't beat the Binky CAD system - works every time.
Make the Noise Any pod between radio hump and instrument hump will need a very neat shape so it looks acceptable from the outside. Nobody wants a see gappy bodge from through the windscreen. What will parking attendants think.
Binky CAD should be ideal perhaps with a rubber filler flange to tidy the join line. But a pretty complex thing all the same and no doubt a few to be made before its done. And you still have to drill the dash to put the wires through.
Personally, I would have put the music in the glove box with a handy remote control for the driver to use. That leaves loads of spaces for driving stuff in the radio pod. BUT can the radio screen display what you need - with suitable interface. How about a new panel in the instrument pod? How about an LCD in the radio pod that displays all you could ever need?
http://www.stackltd.com/dash_displays.html
https://www.theonegauge.com/
https://www.demon-tweeks.com/uk/mot...ges-driver-information/dash-displays-loggers/
https://www.ebay.co.uk/b/Car-Instrument-Clusters/33675/bn_875302
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I still think it's all up to the compressionrate. Maybe the 100HP would benefit, but certainly putting it in a 1.1 or 1.2 would be throwing away money.
gr J
Have you thought about using gauges mounted in pods that fix to the windscreen pillar? Look on Amazon here:
Generic YC-UK2-151124-108 <1&5559*1> Car RH-Pillar Tri: Amazon.co.uk: Electronics
Or how about a complete electronic cluster? Take a look at carbuildersolutions.com - they have a huge range of analogue and digital options and various mounting brackets that are used by the kit car fraternity and may give you some inspiration.
Generic YC-UK2-151124-108 <1&5559*1> Car RH-Pillar Tri: Amazon.co.uk: Electronics
Or how about a complete electronic cluster? Take a look at carbuildersolutions.com - they have a huge range of analogue and digital options and various mounting brackets that are used by the kit car fraternity and may give you some inspiration.
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I use it in the 1.2-60. It definitely gets better mpg and with an engine that's barely adequate anyway, every little really does help. I doubt it saves any money but the better drive is well worth the cost if there is any additional cost.
I avoid Shel Optimax because it really is just too costly. It can be 15p per litre more than Tesco's basic 95RON.
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A3jeroen - ooh, very interesting. Thanks for the link. I'm guessing that the piggy back EUC's mapping is optimised for "super", and I do want to do some digging on that subject.
grantleyrich - yes I have, I'm in two minds about them. I guess I could purchase and see what they looks like. Oh. That website has many, many nice things to purchase!
DaveMcT - I was all set for that Stack LCD dash, until I saw the price - the whole car didn't cost that much!
grantleyrich - yes I have, I'm in two minds about them. I guess I could purchase and see what they looks like. Oh. That website has many, many nice things to purchase!
DaveMcT - I was all set for that Stack LCD dash, until I saw the price - the whole car didn't cost that much!
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I don't think I can get four gauges stack up, as the top gauge will be in my sight line.
So I've pressed on with three gauge prototype. The front is cut from the top of a plastic Quality Street tub, and it's all covered in some cheap knock off alcantara I had to hand.
It's far from perfect, and I need a more accurate shape for the gap, and more of a wrap around top, but I think this could work..
So I've pressed on with three gauge prototype. The front is cut from the top of a plastic Quality Street tub, and it's all covered in some cheap knock off alcantara I had to hand.
It's far from perfect, and I need a more accurate shape for the gap, and more of a wrap around top, but I think this could work..
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The pressure the turbo provides combined with the compressionrate makes high octane fuel nescessary in your case. Not the ECU setup.
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Most turbo engines run a lower compression ratio than naturally aspirated. That allows for more boost before the combustion pressure gets too high or pre-ignition sets in.
The knock sensor should protect the engine, but its achieved by throwing heat down the exhaust = more boost (potentially) and a power drop just when you'd like to have that power. Special pistons are the ideal solution but sometimes a thicker cylinder head gasket can be used.
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So I haven't been entirely honest.. well, it's more a sin of omission...
I haven't been driving the Panda for the last few weeks, I haven't been able to, because I removed the turbo and sent it off to be checked over and overhauled.
The first place I sent it to wouldn't touch it, as it wasn't a standard fit turbo.. I know! So that wasted quite some time. The next place wasn't so picky, and it was back in my grubby little hands in 4 days.
attached is a "before" and two "after" photos.
Did the turbo need a refurb? Probably. There was a fair bit of "float", and it will have had a pretty tough life before me. At least I now have a bit of "piece of mind", and hopefully the turbo will last another 50k..
I haven't been driving the Panda for the last few weeks, I haven't been able to, because I removed the turbo and sent it off to be checked over and overhauled.
The first place I sent it to wouldn't touch it, as it wasn't a standard fit turbo.. I know! So that wasted quite some time. The next place wasn't so picky, and it was back in my grubby little hands in 4 days.
attached is a "before" and two "after" photos.
Did the turbo need a refurb? Probably. There was a fair bit of "float", and it will have had a pretty tough life before me. At least I now have a bit of "piece of mind", and hopefully the turbo will last another 50k..
