Stilo RuSZ' Stilo 1.8 16v Dynamic

Artermis · Jul 11, 2017

You've identified the main wires there.

Probably be illumination, won't it?

ISO wiring plug for power has 8 pins. Three of them don't usually do anything or are remote mute switches for hands free jobbies.

Then, in no particular order you tend to have (for ISO):

+12v constant
+12v ACC (switched)
GND
Illumination
+12v to antenna

Artermis · Jul 11, 2017

RuSZ said:
Got the exhaust system hole sorted out. No more blowing and rumbling.

Quite sad really as he raspy noise had grown on me a bit. Haha.

But with plenty of exhaust sealant on the joint it's now sounding like a standard exhaust again. Although the 1.8 does seem to have a little bit of rasp to it.

Thinking of a exhaust system in the future.

But don't think I'll go down the intake pipe route if the MAP sensors are a but weak.

But with my daily routine meaning I'm up and driving at 5am I quiet happy to be able to get up and not wake-up the street

Ohh.. on another note. I can't seem to get the head unit to work. Keeps blowing the 10a fuse.

On the white connector block there's 5 cables on the adapter there's 4. 2 power (red and yellow) and earth (black) anda blue on for something.

On the fiat block I know that the red and yellow are the same one (pulled together) as it doesn't use an Acc live from the ignition so that's just to the red cable on the body and the earth is the black. But what are the others?

Did you install and wire your new single din stereo? If so where have you picked up the switched live feed from?

I guess you've used this unit before in other cars, I think you said you have... so we can probably assume it's not an issue with the stereo. There should be a fuse on the back of the stereo too so if that was sucking too much juice it'd blow that fuse too where it's the car fuse we're seeing popping.

If you run it in "20 minute mode" i.e. ignition off just listening to the stereo does the fuse still pop?

Was it popping fuses on the factory head unit?

RuSZ · Jul 11, 2017

Artermis said:
Did you install and wire your new single din stereo? If so where have you picked up the switched live feed from?

I guess you've used this unit before in other cars, I think you said you have... so we can probably assume it's not an issue with the stereo. There should be a fuse on the back of the stereo too so if that was sucking too much juice it'd blow that fuse too where it's the car fuse we're seeing popping.

If you run it in "20 minute mode" i.e. ignition off just listening to the stereo does the fuse still pop?

Was it popping fuses on the factory head unit?

Fuse on the head unit ok. That's a 10a fuse as well.

All wiring is from the two blocks on the car. The speaker ones haven't been touched, they match the others.

It's just the power block that doesn't appear to match.

There's no 20 minute mode on the HU and requires the live cable to be active from the ignition.

Won't even turn on, just blows the body fuse when wired up.

I'll get some photos when I'm home from work tonight.

Yeah had the HU for a little while and wired it onto a few cars without fault.

RuSZ · Jul 11, 2017

Artermis said:
You've identified the main wires there.

Probably be illumination, won't it?

ISO wiring plug for power has 8 pins. Three of them don't usually do anything or are remote mute switches for hands free jobbies.

Then, in no particular order you tend to have (for ISO):

+12v constant
+12v ACC (switched)
GND
Illumination
+12v to antenna

Yeah fiat have 2 iso blocks.

The speaker on I've left untouched

The other block has 8 ports, but 5 wires.

The adapter takes the 2 fiat iso connectors down to one.

The 8 pin power adaptor has 4 wires

2 power (red and yellow) the red one matches the location of the red one on the fiat block (but allows the red and yellow to be connected together.

1 black earth (matches fiats location)

1 blue/white cable that doesn't match fiat at all.

Not using an ignition live so won't come on automatically

dtimmins1985 · Jul 11, 2017

RuSZ said:
Yeah fiat have 2 iso blocks.

The speaker on I've left untouched

The other block has 8 ports, but 5 wires.

The adapter takes the 2 fiat iso connectors down to one.

The 8 pin power adaptor has 4 wires

2 power (red and yellow) the red one matches the location of the red one on the fiat block (but allows the red and yellow to be connected together.

1 black earth (matches fiats location)

1 blue/white cable that doesn't match fiat at all.

Not using an ignition live so won't come on automatically

The blue cable is the signal wire for an Amplifier - it will tell the amp to turn on when the stereo comes on.

Dont worry about blue wire, make sure yellow and red on stereo are mated together, then make sure they join as one to the permanent live on the stilo iso end.

If the fuse keeps blowing, check the positon of the fuse on the head unit, some head units have three holes for the fuse (like a jumper setting) as some manufacturers use negative earths and the opposite - like VW for instance.

If i was to put my old sony unit into the VW then i would have to move the fuse across one pin... see if it has that.

RuSZ · Jul 11, 2017

dtimmins1985 said:
The blue cable is the signal wire for an Amplifier - it will tell the amp to turn on when the stereo comes on.

Dont worry about blue wire, make sure yellow and red on stereo are mated together, then make sure they join as one to the permanent live on the stilo iso end.

If the fuse keeps blowing, check the positon of the fuse on the head unit, some head units have three holes for the fuse (like a jumper setting) as some manufacturers use negative earths and the opposite - like VW for instance.

If i was to put my old sony unit into the VW then i would have to move the fuse across one pin... see if it has that.

Good thought on the fuse position. However on the Stilo fuse box as far as I can tell it's a single position 10a mini blade fuse. No alternative slot of it to move into.

I'll get some photos in a little while.

Didn't think the blue was a remote for an amp as it matched up with a position on my last car (Mondeo) and the car before that (Laguna) and neither had on board amps.

Thought remote normally weren't built into the blocks. hmmm.

But your most likely right.

dtimmins1985 · Jul 11, 2017

RuSZ said:
Good thought on the fuse position. However on the Stilo fuse box as far as I can tell it's a single position 10a mini blade fuse. No alternative slot of it to move into.

I'll get some photos in a little while.

Didn't think the blue was a remote for an amp as it matched up with a position on my last car (Mondeo) and the car before that (Laguna) and neither had on board amps.

Thought remote normally weren't built into the blocks. hmmm.

But your most likely right.

The amp remote signal wire will be wired into the head unit side of the ISO on all stereos that support an amplifier output... the Stilo does not have a remote wire on the iso of the car - mine doesnt, i suspect that only the models with the built in amp have this.

Orange is for illumination and dimming of the bulbs when headlights are on.

The fuse position is not changed in the fuse box but might be moveable on the back of the stereo.

Most newer stereo's have it done automatically (i dont know how it works) but my older stereos have 3 holes for the fuse on the back of the head units, also check the installation guide as it will explain it in there if you need to swap the fuse to the next pin across.

Artermis · Jul 11, 2017

Remote for the BOSE systems and similar fitted across the Alfa and Fiat models should be wired into the 3 mini-block connectors. Something like pin 3 on the green connector or something I think. The systems dont seem particularly common on the Stilo though.

D Timmins is still correct though as he will be referring to the +12v antenna, like the remote switch for the power antenna - remember the old skool cars with powered up and down aerials - it'd be the switch for that and when modding can be used for the amp switch.

Stilo is a little bit cocked up compared to genuine ISO model with it being canbus unit.

I would say if it's easy to do remove the jump between your switched and permanent live and check that doesn't make the difference; otherwise you probably are looking for an actual short somewhere.

If it turns out your looking for an actual short unless something is obvious I'd wire in a new pair of switched and permanent lives from the fuse box.

RuSZ · Jul 11, 2017

So which matches which. (yellow & red are combined to make the yellow on the adapter).

EDIT.

I'm aware that the HU doesn't current have a 10a fuse connected. I ran out of them, so that's in the fuse box so I can use the standard unit

Artermis · Jul 12, 2017

RuSZ said:
So which matches which. (yellow & red are combined to make the yellow on the adapter).

EDIT.

I'm aware that the HU doesn't current have a 10a fuse connected. I ran out of them, so that's in the fuse box so I can use the standard unit

View attachment 182248 View attachment 182249 View attachment 182250

Standard head unit works just fine, no fuse blowing, right?

RuSZ · Jul 12, 2017

Artermis said:
Standard head unit works just fine, no fuse blowing, right?

Correct. No issues with the standard head unit. Never blown a fuse. However doesn't seem to work on Canbus as I have to turn it on manually.

dtimmins1985 · Jul 12, 2017

RuSZ said:
Correct. No issues with the standard head unit. Never blown a fuse. However doesn't seem to work on Canbus as I have to turn it on manually.

For it to work on canbus you need to enable option in menu (switched) and set it to on, it can become annoying though as every time you start the car it comes on, i find myself having to turn it off frequently as i like to hear out for foreign noises and knocks and bumps when i first fire up the motor.

Artermis · Jul 12, 2017

RuSZ said:
Correct. No issues with the standard head unit. Never blown a fuse. However doesn't seem to work on Canbus as I have to turn it on manually.

As Dan says; It's still a CANBUS node, i.e. an element of the system, but you have to turn on the ignition switch function to "on" on the unit.

Press and hold the menu button until it comes up with setting the clock. Then press the menu button a few more times, four or five I think, until you get to the ignition switch option. Press the fast forward / skip forward track button to turn it on.

So your aftermarket head unit then....

Something in the wiring of the harness or the unit itself is causing a short or drawing too much current.

My initial thoughts - that blue wire in your pictures with the big shiny spade connector on the end. You're not just leaving that flapping around are you? Make sure it's taped up and insulated if not used.

I'm still a bit skeptical about the red and yellow being bridged together but I can't realistically see how this will adversely affect it, albeit if I was installing I'd have run in my own switched live feed to use.

Was the fuse in the back of the head unit 10amps?

RuSZ · Jul 12, 2017

Artermis said:
As Dan says; It's still a CANBUS node, i.e. an element of the system, but you have to turn on the ignition switch function to "on" on the unit.

Press and hold the menu button until it comes up with setting the clock. Then press the menu button a few more times, four or five I think, until you get to the ignition switch option. Press the fast forward / skip forward track button to turn it on.

So your aftermarket head unit then....

Something in the wiring of the harness or the unit itself is causing a short or drawing too much current.

My initial thoughts - that blue wire in your pictures with the big shiny spade connector on the end. You're not just leaving that flapping around are you? Make sure it's taped up and insulated if not used.

I'm still a bit skeptical about the red and yellow being bridged together but I can't realistically see how this will adversely affect it, albeit if I was installing I'd have run in my own switched live feed to use.

Was the fuse in the back of the head unit 10amps?

In regards the red and yellow. The do separate out and a red cable leads to the block, but I've removed it as it goes to a missing location on the Fiat block. It's for an ignition live for Non Fiat units.

But some units have the red and yellow in opposite locations so it has the bridge to switch them around or in the case of not having one to be able to bridge them together (i.e like in my image)

The blue one has been taped up so as not to short out, but was untapped for the photo incase of any suggestions.

RuSZ · Jul 13, 2017

Well I work out the problem with the stereo wiring loom.

Me.

When I took the HU out of my old car before it was scraped I think I left the old wiring loom harness in it.

So when I picked up the pioneer HU to put in this car I picked up the wiring loom in the bag with it.

Turns out this was a Sony wiring loom that goes with the stereo in the other car, that doesn't have the loom attached as it didn't need it.

Turns out Sony have their power line in a different location...

Oops

dtimmins1985 · Jul 13, 2017

Good work... and yes bridging the yellow and red is needed, one is for permanent live that allows the HU to keep its memory and the other wire is to actually power it up (switched). But fiat does not have switched so without the switched wire bridged it will have power to store its memory but not to power it up, try it out and you will see what i mean

jatkinson · Jul 13, 2017

russ i have a debadge grill , lowring springs window shades ,, all yours for cheap if you want ?

hit me up on fb , and we can talk about it ,,, since i should realy put it in the classifieds

Artermis · Jul 17, 2017

jatkinson said:
russ i have a debadge grill , lowring springs window shades ,, all yours for cheap if you want ?

hit me up on fb , and we can talk about it ,,, since i should realy put it in the classifieds

Hi James,

That's a generous offer you make for Russ which is very kind of you. Just a quick note to say that if those lowering springs are from a 1.9JTD as listed in your signature then they will not be suitable for a 1.8 petrol.

The 4 cylinder petrols all share a common set of front springs and the JTD and 5 cylinder petrols are also common across the front axle.

Just for info the springs from a five door would not be compatible with a 3 door either (although I think you're both 3 door?).

Cheers!

dtimmins1985 · Jul 18, 2017

jatkinson said:
russ i have a debadge grill , lowring springs window shades ,, all yours for cheap if you want ?

hit me up on fb , and we can talk about it ,,, since i should realy put it in the classifieds

Hey JAtkinson.

As per what Artermis said.

Are these from a 3dr JTD?

If so, how much do you want for them, PM me if they are still available - i have a multijet, if they will fit mine - i will have them depending on condition.

Yorkshire007 · Jul 20, 2017

I have a set off front Lowering Springs going sooooooo cheap....... sorry for hijacking the post.

Stilo RuSZ' Stilo 1.8 16v Dynamic

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