IMG_4676.JPG

Panda (Classic) 1993 Fiat Panda Fizz "Pandino"

Introduction

Hey everyone, let me introduce you to my first car! :)

The car is a 1993 Fiat Panda Fizz, 999cc engine with fuel injection, only 26,000 miles at the time of buying. Nicknamed "Pandino" by the previous owner, and I'll make sure that name sticks! :D

Pictures are compulsory of course, so I've attached some of my first images that I've taken of the car. You'll likely find various other pictures in this thread when I get some things done to it! I attached the pictures to this post and I've uploaded one to the gallery so that I can have this one embedded! :rolleyes:
DSC_000824.JPG


*Following list is from original post, more has been done since, read thread for more*
What have I done already? Well I haven't even had the car for a couple of days yet, but I've done a few things...
  1. Used upholstery cleaner on the dirty ceiling, definitely needs some more though!
  2. Figured out how to do everything (i.e. parcel shelf removal, putting seats down, seat positions, mirrors etc)!
  3. Cleaned all the windows and mirrors!
  4. Checked all fluids and oil levels!
  5. Checked all lights/buttons!
  6. Checked tyre pressures, which I might decrease in the rear as they're running quite high!
  7. Took out the spare wheel/tyre, gave it a good clean but it is showing it's age, though it's been pumped up so it'll get me home if I need it now!
  8. Took the seal/cover off the heater matrix to remove the forest that was growing within it...
  9. Tried taking off the grille but couldn't get one of the centre poppers off and the front screws look a bit rounded off...
  10. Ran the car and moved it on the driveway!
  11. Put a blanket, a bag, a tool extension and a first aid kit in the boot!

*Following list is from original post, read thread for more*
What I plan to do next...
  1. Clean, clean, clean!
  2. Hopefully obtain new badges for the front and rear as all are discoloured!
  3. Try and clean the garage to fit the car in (or more likely at this time, find a suitable car cover for it)!
  4. Seal doors to prevent rust!
  5. Get some touch up paint for areas where paint has come away!
  6. Buy some Fiat Forum stickers of course!
  7. Potentially buy new number plates or at least replace some screws as they're looking a bit worn!
  8. What ever else I end up thinking of... follow the thread and read for more!

I also plan to go to some Panda classic events with others. I'll keep an eye out, but feel free to invite me to something if you've got something/see something going on!

That's about all I can think of right now! It feels so strange having a car, I'm very happy to have bought a car I really wanted. I've been looking for ages. :worship: If you have any questions about it then please do ask! I'm very happy to talk about my car! (y)
Taking out the back light looks to give you good access to the rear wheel arches for cavity wax injection.
Good observation there! I still need to get around to doing the waxing underneath/in cavities, so much has been going on. But ideally I need to get it done before gritters come out, though still need to do it after I've done my repairs to the surface rust underneath the car, which I'll be doing soon!
 
Had some time today, and I finally got my blue bulbs that flash amber from Halfords, so it was time to fit the clear indicator lenses from blu73 :D I used the same orange plastic headed screws that were on my orange lenses as the screws that came with the clear ones didn't play game ;)
3.jpg

I think the orange head screws actually look fine on there so I'm not planning on changing them. The blue bulbs look pretty snazzy in the lenses from the side... (y)
4.jpg

I used a wire brush disc in the drill to remove the surface rust underneath the car today. After sufficiently removed, I then proceeded to put some kurust on, as you can see...
5.jpg

Next up, I'll make sure it looks all pretty and paint it with some satin black that I have leftover from painting under the seats. After painting, it needs some spray on stone chip that I've bought already, and after that I can try and find some time for getting around to doing this waxoyl :slayer:

A little change is coming to Pandino soon as well, it's something I've wanted to try, so you'll see it soon...
 
Last edited:
This morning, the Kurust was all settled nicely and I had a little bit of time so I sprayed over the areas in satin black. You can see this in the following couple of pictures...
6.jpg
7.jpg

After allowing some time for it to dry, I went over it with some spray on stone chip protector. I didn't get any more pictures of it with this on, but it's just more of the black.

This should be a sufficient enough fix now, I still need to get around to the waxoyling. And also the rev counter... and my new little surprise coming soon. The list goes on. It'll never end, I'm sure of it (y)
 
Missed this one earlier! Now that was a bit silly with the sliding floor there... ;)

I know we've got some stickyback velcro stuff so I could always try that before I go finding some other anti slip material. Could stick it under the mat or more likely on the rubber floor and have velcro against the bottom of the mat so it grips better? Then see how that works perhaps... :p

I don't have Dinitrol (or Dynax as Vern suggested) but I do have some Waxoyl, says it stops rust and prevents more so should do the job. I've attached a picture of the things I can use on my car with this post. There's some flakey bits of rust/paint on the doors on the inside at the bottom that I'll get rid of, then I can use Kurust, and then I can spray some paint if need be onto it as well. Outside I'm leaving as is. If I tamper with it I'll make it worse anyway. With Waxoyl inside and bottom cleaned up, it should at least slow the process and one day might need some new metal but we'll get to that when it comes to it! :D


This Dinitrol/Waxoyl discussion has me intrigued; which is best for doors and box sections?

Pandani is still away getting welding, new door skins and a full respray carried out. When I get her back next year I want to treat the inside of the doors and other box sections to prevent it rusting again. I've used Waxoyl before in the past but does anyone know if Dinitrol is better or even if there's anything else out there that's even better these two products? I have a preference for the Dinitrol but only based on some of the marketing that I've read. Some of these box sections include surface rust that is sound and dry but too awkward to replace, so I want to treat these too to prevent it worsening.

A previous owner has already applied Waxoyl to some sections, does anyone know if Dinitrol can be used where Waxoyl has already been used?
 
I would also be very interested on other people's views on cavity way, I have used Finnegan's waxoil for the last 30 years but only because I don't know any different, I can tell you this though , despite what the makers claim on the tin , waxoil which is constantly exposed to water does eventually dry out and flake off so it's definitely not a once only treatment.
 
A previous owner has already applied Waxoyl to some sections, does anyone know if Dinitrol can be used where Waxoyl has already been used?
As with most things, you'll find people who like one thing and people who like another, I doubt there's a clear answer. I had a quick look on the internet and there's no definitive answer. If you want to apply over rust though, then I don't think you can do that with Waxoyl, so Dinitrol maybe in your favour in that aspect. Either way though, both seem to have those that like it and those that don't :p

As for using Dinitrol where Waxoyl has been used, I don't think that would be much of an issue, but make sure you read what's in the descriptions/on the cans before applying!
I would also be very interested on other people's views on cavity way, I have used Finnegan's waxoil for the last 30 years but only because I don't know any different, I can tell you this though , despite what the makers claim on the tin , waxoil which is constantly exposed to water does eventually dry out and flake off so it's definitely not a once only treatment.
No matter what wax you get, it'll eventually dry out/get out, so yes you need to re-apply every now and then. One of those things we need to keep an eye on with the older cars!

---



The above video shows today's addition to the Panda - a whirring sound. Posted the video up to the Facebook Panda page and current suspects to look at are the cam tensioner and the alternator... if anyone has any further ideas then give me a shout :)
 
As Freddy sugested - ake the belt off the alt pulley and start engine.
Spin the rotor to check free rotation. If bearing are shout.
Remove Alt using 16mm socket and medium breaker bar.
Using allen key and 17mm spaner undu the pulley and fan.
Undo the regulator assembly, dont loose small plasstic grill there.
undo nuts on the circumference of Alt body/back.
Pull the rotor and front plate apart from Alt case - might need to prise it apart - be gentle.
replace bearings - use the old ones to drive new one in situ - work around.
Assemble in revers order, inspect brushes at regulator assembly.
Enjoy.

Bearing ahould be available of the shelf from local bearing shop.
 
I wouldn't panic about needing to do anything about before next using the car, it doesn't sound like the bearing is about to disintegrate and the noise will get a lot worse before it does. Best confirm it is actually the alternator first as well!

With regards to cavity wax options then I don't use anything other than Dinitrol. Their 3125 cavity wax is what I use for box sections and doors, it very thin and creeps very well, especially when applied with a compressor and proper gun with long lance. The 4941 underbody wax is also very good, it dries hard to the touch so you don't get covered in it when you next go under the car and it is also very resilient to being washed off and does not crack and dry up at all in my experience with it. Again best applied with a compressor to get a good coating.
 
I've no compresser but am I correct in assuming that a normal compressor from a hire shop will do?

When I did my Cinq. about 18 years ago with Waxoyl I only used it the once and it always APPEARED to remain waxy and doing its job well but then it spent most of its life in the garage. FDNY21's comment that wax can dry and crack has me thinking that when water gets in below the dried wax it could remain there and cause more rust. Bear in mind I'm going be treating some rust spots within box sections that are too small to require cutting out and replacing, such as inside the box section of the rear quarter panels at the inside of the rear arches.
 
Yes, any compressor will work. You can buy small ones for around £100 that will do the job and are very useful for other things too.

Moisture getting underneath the coating can be a issue with bitumen based underseals as they are probably the worst for drying out and cracking. Normal Waxoyl just seems to get washed off if the car is in everyday use. The 3125 cavity wax is designed to be used on older vehicles that may have light surface rusting in the cavities, so it is perfect for what you are doing.
 
As Freddy sugested - ake the belt off the alt pulley and start engine.
Spin the rotor to check free rotation. If bearing are shout.
Remove Alt using 16mm socket and medium breaker bar.
Using allen key and 17mm spaner undu the pulley and fan.
Undo the regulator assembly, dont loose small plasstic grill there.
undo nuts on the circumference of Alt body/back.
Pull the rotor and front plate apart from Alt case - might need to prise it apart - be gentle.
replace bearings - use the old ones to drive new one in situ - work around.
Assemble in revers order, inspect brushes at regulator assembly.
Enjoy.

Bearing ahould be available of the shelf from local bearing shop.
Cheers, sounds like you've done this before (y)

I'm going to pay a quick trip to a local garage my uncle used to work with first and see what they think it is, and we'll see where to go from there... may have to refer to this if I'm going to change bearings or the alternator!
I wouldn't panic about needing to do anything about before next using the car, it doesn't sound like the bearing is about to disintegrate and the noise will get a lot worse before it does. Best confirm it is actually the alternator first as well!
Hopefully the garage I go to tomorrow can confirm what it is. If I need the car for Sunday then hopefully they can get it sorted ASAP as well, but we will see what happens!

I got a new video of the sound though. It changes with the revs and you can hear it better in this one. I'm thinking it's the alternator now but a check tomorrow will see, just hoping the garage has the time to look at it!


---

First the grille lacquer issues, then the pothole, and now the alternator... touch wood this is it for now! :rolleyes:
 
welcome to owning an older car... gets to a point where you have changed everything eventually and its good for many many thousands of miles (y)

Takes just a jiffy to slacked off the belt and take it off and turn car on, if its gone without the alternator belt on its defo the alternator. If its still there its most likely the cam belt tensioner but one thing at a time. I wouldn't bother taking it to a garage just yet, this is easy to test with little more than a few spanners.
 
welcome to owning an older car... gets to a point where you have changed everything eventually and its good for many many thousands of miles (y)

Takes just a jiffy to slacked off the belt and take it off and turn car on, if its gone without the alternator belt on its defo the alternator. If its still there its most likely the cam belt tensioner but one thing at a time. I wouldn't bother taking it to a garage just yet, this is easy to test with little more than a few spanners.
My cousin had that with his mk1 Golf, almost everything ended up changed in the end! :p Problem with my car isn't the miles as it's only 26k, must just be the age :eek:

The garage I gave a visit were busy anyway - my uncle checked the car and it's the alternator though, so I'll get on that right away. Will order one from APD tomorrow, and fit it Saturday, in order to get to Haynes for Sunday.

This may mean I may not get time to fit my little something to the car till after the event which is a shame, I was hoping they would be on for the pictures... I'll see if i get time. Though it doesn't give me much time to clean the car either, especially as I'm working Friday and am out most of Saturday. As long as the alternator gets changed and the car works then I suppose that's what matters! (y)
 
yeah well tbh one of the worst things for a car meechanically is sitting and not driving which it must have done plenty of at its age to be at such low miles still. That said with it being a panda that also means its not been driven in salty wintry conditions which is good from the old tin worm point of view. Hey-ho its not the end of the world, like most stuff on a panda is pretty cheap to fix or replace. Heck my panda, if oyu read my thread, pretty much has a completely new front end, every bush or moving part on the suspension has been replaced because hell why not if i have it apart. Once then engine is in and running the only thing left at the front i've not replaced will be brakes and the rad i think. After that I am gonna start looking at swapping everything out at the back just because i can. Still undecided if I am just gonna clean up the brakes or upgrade the caliperrs and stuff - at the very least it will be getting new discs, pads up front and new brake cylinders, drums and hubs at the rear - prob some new flexi brake lines all round and new fluid.

Don't worry about the alternator swap, you can do that - its only a few bolts and it comes out - you can hardly go wrong ;) something nice and simple to sink your teeth into as a first mechanical repair - which you simply must start doing yourself or you gonna end up spending a fortune on labour charges at garages
 
yeah well tbh one of the worst things for a car meechanically is sitting and not driving which it must have done plenty of at its age to be at such low miles still. That said with it being a panda that also means its not been driven in salty wintry conditions which is good from the old tin worm point of view. Hey-ho its not the end of the world, like most stuff on a panda is pretty cheap to fix or replace. Heck my panda, if oyu read my thread, pretty much has a completely new front end, every bush or moving part on the suspension has been replaced because hell why not if i have it apart. Once then engine is in and running the only thing left at the front i've not replaced will be brakes and the rad i think. After that I am gonna start looking at swapping everything out at the back just because i can. Still undecided if I am just gonna clean up the brakes or upgrade the caliperrs and stuff - at the very least it will be getting new discs, pads up front and new brake cylinders, drums and hubs at the rear - prob some new flexi brake lines all round and new fluid.

Don't worry about the alternator swap, you can do that - its only a few bolts and it comes out - you can hardly go wrong ;) something nice and simple to sink your teeth into as a first mechanical repair - which you simply must start doing yourself or you gonna end up spending a fortune on labour charges at garages
From the thread, it does indeed look like you've changed a lot! If you're looking at swapping everything out at the front of any other Pandas then let me know, you can replace all my suspension bits if you want (y)

The alternator job is now done! Only two bolts hold it in place. The main things to overcome were how to get down there easily to them, and using brute strength because the bolts were done as tight as they possible could be! Went alright in the end though. The bolts came out after a lot of tugging, and with bits out the way we could pull it out the top and then we stuck the new one in from the top. More details on that below...

---

New Magneti Marelli 65a alternator came, exactly the same as the old one!
9.jpg

The bracket holding cables and the bracket holding some electronics above the alternator were taken off and pushed towards the back to start with. With a lot of strength, the tight bolts on the old alternator were taken off, and then the alternator came out from the belt and we removed the cables. One 10mm nut holds one set of cables on, and the other set just comes out of a little socket. The alternator came out from the top with a bit of precision, between the space we made by moving the electronics!

By the way, using a ramp helps for taking off the bolt holding the underneath of the alternator...
8.jpg

The new alternator dropped in, again with a bit of precision, from the top. Put it roughly in place, put the cables back in and slot the turning end into the belt, and then put those holding bolts in! One goes on and then the other one gets tightened as you push the alternator away. That way you get your tension with the belt, and there you go!

Packed up and set off, drove around for about half an hour today in total and all is perfectly smooth. I'm all set for Haynes Motor Museum tomorrow! :cool:
 
next time, jack and then axle stand, take front drivers side wheel off and go in that way, much much easier ;) you muddled through (y)

I can help swap all your suspension if you get the bits, no worries - just give us a shout ;)
All I could get for the Fri/Sat to do the alternator were those car stands, but next time I'll ask a mate to borrow their axle stands to do it... though I'm really hoping I don't have to do that again for a long time! :rolleyes: Using the car stand didn't go too badly though (y)

Thanks for the offer, I'll be sure to do that if I get the pieces! Rear shocks and front shocks together I found for £108, lowering springs add another £100 on top pretty much. With the alternator going and all the other things I've bought for the car, not sure if I can buy it just yet though... :bang: :p

I hope you are taking note of how important cavity wax injection is FDNY21 ?
Got this note from Michael on Freddy's page, and this is something I really need to get to. With the cold definitely out and about now, it's about time I used the waxoyl I bought! I'll have to prioritise it and get around to it ASAP. Hopefully this weekend...

---

Pandino made it to Haynes and back with ease. It was great meeting Vernon, and Casper met with Pandino for the first time. I've got plenty of pictures of the cars, though I will likely make a separate thread for the majority of them! Here's Pandino sitting pretty with Casper in front of the museum :)
View attachment DSC_0060.JPG
 
The only down side if you have picked the wrong time of year,I do my cars in the middle of summer when it's baking hot which makes the wax run better,however all is not lost what you could do is get a fan heater in your garage and leave it running on full for a good few hours to get the car body temperature up,let the waxoil down with some white spirit,and then put your can of waxoil in a bucket of boiling water,this will ensure the wax runs into every crevice,park your car uphill on your ramps and then downhill to make sure wax runs everywhere,some carpets may need to be lifted to get access to the sills.
 
i think you should have a trolley jack and axle stands on your christmas wish list ;) things that you will use more than any other tools you ever own more than likely.. Mine are a xmas pressie from when i first started driving, still serving me well - must be like 15 years on i think, something like that anyway
 
Back
Top