It is a horrible job... If unprepared.
I changed mine recently, I couldn't find any guides anywhere but knew where it was so had a go.
You don't need to take a wheel off but need access to a portion of the Allen key bolts inside the kerbside wheel arch, there is a panel underneath the engine which can be lowered or removed. You will see a black box with a hose attached at the bottom, it is advisable to take this off, once done you can unclip the box and it opens like a book hinged at the top.
I unfortunately didn't have the tool to remove the hose and had to wedge the box open and rip the filter to bits getting it out. It took me an hour to do mine as I don't have the luxury of proper tools or jack so had to use the fiat supplied one which removes all trace of skin from knuckles that scrape the floor whilst jacking... I think with the rain that fell when doing it which almost drowned me and the loss of blood from the knuckle shaving when I replace again I will go for k&n or similar panel filter.
So long story short look it over and get the right tools and give yourself enough time in case the italians left you surprises. Why couldn't they put it where everyone else does?