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Panda (Classic) Black Panda Wanda 1000CL Formula 91

Introduction

Hi All,

After over 2 year on this forum I've finally decided to set members motors thread for my Panda as I'm currently doing some body works.
Some of them may have some benefits to other forum users, and it will be a bit easier for me to ask an advice.

As some of you know as seen my Panda personally it is not bad example, but as most of them she is not perfect.

On the last MOT test this June I've been told by the tester that there is small rust hole at the inner sill/ floor recognized as an advisory.
So, lets have a closer look....


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At that time I was aware of small (20mm) outer sill bottom edge flange missing, but I was wrong as that was not the only one rust point.
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Thats how it looked like, the hole was enlarge by only using my fingers - yellow marking is still visible. After having a play with screwdriver and angle grinder - situation seams to be under control.

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No, it's not.
As you can see there is a right mess under the jacking point, and the far end of jacking point itself is badly corroded same as the cross membrane.

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And the jacking point
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The following plan for is :
- cut the and of the membrane, to gain clear access to the floor and inner sill,
- repair floor and inner sill section under the membrane,
- weld in the rest of the floor and inner sill cut out,
- fabricate cross membrane section and weld it back in to original position,
- repair jacking point using 3mm thick steel,
- spot weld jacking point back to ori position,
- prepare surrounding area for stone chip paint, closed profile conservation, etc...

Now I'm after some 1.5mm steel sheet for the membrane rebuild, and 1-1.2mm for floor/sill.


Any suggestions, tips&trics are welcome.
My mk1 went in the same place, the best way is to cut off part of the outer sill so you have good access to the inner sill and floor layers, also doing it this way, if the cross member is solid you don't need to disturb it to get access. Check the back end of the sill, if it is looking a bit crusty it may be best to get a complete new outer sill panel do the whole lot.
 
s Check the back end of the sill, if it is looking a bit crusty it may be best to get a complete new outer sill panel do the whole lot.

Apparently the outer sill is in prety good condition, the inner sill below floor plan level seems to gone infecting the floor lip as well. I'll renew inner sill from underneath up to next drain aperture.
Can have a full size scan of the decals if still needed, or even have them plotted on to vinyl.
 
I think homeward was looking for some photos and sizes etc for the formula 91 decals a while back. You may be able to help him out!

Thank you for remembering! I'd honestly forgotten about this, until looking at Didge3's Char, earlier... -- so great timing...!
kolza -- if you could look at this thread, sometime, please -- no hurry -- then maybe we could sort out photographing your decals, with measurements, etc.. :worship:
 
Hi Jacob good to see you have now got a thread for your car!

As you have said it is a tidy example and a good looking car I think it is starting to suffer the evil Panda tin worm in places that they all go. My Sisley is exactly the same and as panda1408 says the best way to get to the bottom of it is to cut the outer sill out to weld up inside for a proper job. I have only seen one jacking point for sale on ebay as a new part but I am going to have to fabricate some new ones for mine when I get there, so I will post up up a how-to when it comes to it or maybe even make a few to sell on to forum members :D Good luck with your work!
 
Hi Andy, and thanks for worm worlds of support, I know I know Iknow it is Italian panda wich had no welding since ( according to MOT history check) 1999!!!! Heh she was only 8 years old and had the passanger sill havy bodge MOTed.
Next point to do is to put new skin at the doors bottom before the door frame will dissolve - ideal winter project.

Meanwhile comfy seats are nearly ready, just put the foam back to place
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can't wait till first sharp bend...
 
Not much progress other than jacking point was welded up, so it looks as should. Spot weld holes will be added prior to final fitting.
Floor and inner sill cut out was slightly enlarged by cutting out rusted areas from under the cross membrane, now to cut some steel sheet to the right size and shape.
I'm still haven't decided wich anti rust protection - metal treatment route shall I go.


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PS. the top edge curvature, dont know why but it is photo distortion made my camera.
This gona be the most solid part of the car.
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First inner sill patch allready cutted to size, I'm following the rule : spend twice as much time preparing / fiddling the patch rather than do it wrong from start and prat later on with cutting it out.

Any advice on alternative solution for weld thru primer?

For all those unaccesible areas after the patch been weld in. Believe me or not but at place I live none of the welding accesories shops stock any of weld thru primere, online will take several days. Thanks
 
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From Scarborough, down to Wokingham via M1 and back up North. Colection planned for 14 Dec. Electric Tow board needed as well.
 
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Still got towboard - frame last used with underbody arms here. Just back with eBay purchase 4x4 'Ruth' - new yrs day 2010 (y) ha - I should have waxoyled her there and then - gone for MOT today - not heard anything yet... :eek: (my frame is a bit overkill for Pandas, but all I could get at short notice...)
let me know height of your tow hitch - mine quite high on motor van
 

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