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Panda (Classic) Black Panda Wanda 1000CL Formula 91

Introduction

Hi All,

After over 2 year on this forum I've finally decided to set members motors thread for my Panda as I'm currently doing some body works.
Some of them may have some benefits to other forum users, and it will be a bit easier for me to ask an advice.

As some of you know as seen my Panda personally it is not bad example, but as most of them she is not perfect.

On the last MOT test this June I've been told by the tester that there is small rust hole at the inner sill/ floor recognized as an advisory.
So, lets have a closer look....


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At that time I was aware of small (20mm) outer sill bottom edge flange missing, but I was wrong as that was not the only one rust point.
IMG_1761.JPG


Thats how it looked like, the hole was enlarge by only using my fingers - yellow marking is still visible. After having a play with screwdriver and angle grinder - situation seams to be under control.

IMG_17631.JPG


No, it's not.
As you can see there is a right mess under the jacking point, and the far end of jacking point itself is badly corroded same as the cross membrane.

IMG_17752.JPG


IMG_17803.JPG

And the jacking point
IMG_17821.JPG


The following plan for is :
- cut the and of the membrane, to gain clear access to the floor and inner sill,
- repair floor and inner sill section under the membrane,
- weld in the rest of the floor and inner sill cut out,
- fabricate cross membrane section and weld it back in to original position,
- repair jacking point using 3mm thick steel,
- spot weld jacking point back to ori position,
- prepare surrounding area for stone chip paint, closed profile conservation, etc...

Now I'm after some 1.5mm steel sheet for the membrane rebuild, and 1-1.2mm for floor/sill.


Any suggestions, tips&trics are welcome.
I'll look out arms tomorrow and test towboard electrics - as I recall towboard has no rear fog but I fitted extra cable to couple up to car's own - so lamp unit needs opening up to connect wires - bit of a bodge but works fine - might not be foggy anyway (y)
 
Hi All,

After over 2 year on this forum I've finally decided to set members motors thread for my Panda as I'm currently doing some body works.
Some of them may have some benefits to other forum users, and it will be a bit easier for me to ask an advice.

As some of you know as seen my Panda personally it is not bad example, but as most of them she is not perfect.

On the last MOT test this June I've been told by the tester that there is small rust hole at the inner sill/ floor recognized as an advisory.
So, lets have a closer look....


IMG_17703.JPG


At that time I was aware of small (20mm) outer sill bottom edge flange missing, but I was wrong as that was not the only one rust point.
IMG_1761.JPG


Thats how it looked like, the hole was enlarge by only using my fingers - yellow marking is still visible. After having a play with screwdriver and angle grinder - situation seams to be under control.

IMG_17631.JPG


No, it's not.
As you can see there is a right mess under the jacking point, and the far end of jacking point itself is badly corroded same as the cross membrane.

IMG_17752.JPG


IMG_17803.JPG

And the jacking point
IMG_17821.JPG


The following plan for is :
- cut the and of the membrane, to gain clear access to the floor and inner sill,
- repair floor and inner sill section under the membrane,
- weld in the rest of the floor and inner sill cut out,
- fabricate cross membrane section and weld it back in to original position,
- repair jacking point using 3mm thick steel,
- spot weld jacking point back to ori position,
- prepare surrounding area for stone chip paint, closed profile conservation, etc...

Now I'm after some 1.5mm steel sheet for the membrane rebuild, and 1-1.2mm for floor/sill.


Any suggestions, tips&trics are welcome.

Nice work!
Can I ask you, where did you get those ramps that your front wheels are on?
 
let me know height of your tow hitch - mine quite high on motor van

The highest point at the top of the "ball" is 18 inches above the ground level, is the frame any good at that height?

CLS have you found any solution yet? what is your death line? it's 234 miles from Scarb'ro plus way back which isn't that bad, but the time which it takes that the biggest problem. I'm collecting the Sisley's sisley on 14 Dec which is 272 miles down the south.

Finger crossed Lightweightmick A frame will do the job, as I'm passing thru M1 J30 anyway.
 
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I've arranged for collection and transport after posting for quotes on "anyvan". Similar to Shiply but much cheaper and only charge a fee of £17. I posted what I was willing to pay and a local company quoted for that. Hopefully I get LVJ tomorrow!!!

Be careful A framing as new regulations require towed vehicle to taxed,mot'd, insured AND a non-runner.
Apparently police are cracking down on this.
 
Be careful A framing as new regulations require towed vehicle to taxed,mot'd, insured AND a non-runner.
Apparently police are cracking down on this.

Doesn't this only apply to towing with a dolly which is technically illegal anyway as it's a trailer towing a trailer..?

see here

**note though - if trailer has brakes they must work. I don't know of any 'recovery' A frame that has this facility.
 
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The highest point at the top of the "ball" is 18 inches above the ground level, is the frame any good at that height?
Finger crossed Lightweightmick A frame will do the job, as I'm passing thru M1 J30 anyway.

I'll check height of my hitch - if hitch is too high it could cause problems as arms won't go under and will be trying to lift front of car. You may need a dropper plate.
Tow board electrics all okay - tested yesterday (y)
 
A vehicle is far safer on an A frame with 4 wheels in contact than ever any single axle trailer - how many A framed cars do you see on their sides in the summer compared to the no of caravans..? They should crack down on the divs towing single axle trailers over the speed limit...
(ha ha, I have a job getting up to the speed limit lol never mind exceeding it :p)
 
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I'll give a call tommorow to my local hire company to get up to date price for hiring their 2 axle trailer wich I've used some time ago when I was bringing my 230CE but that was less than a half of this distance.
A framing would by less noticeble as I do not have +E on my plastic card (yet), but is it efficent for distance of 272miles. Frame or not it's 50mph on singles anyway which is 6h driving including short brakes for look around. And A frame is not adding extra 700kg as the trailer do, so the LPG consumption will be much closer to normal.
 
A-frames should only be used for recovery purposes, i.e to move a car to a safe place after it has broken down, not for transporting even if it is a non runner. Effectively you are turning the car into a trailer and without overrun brakes it is not legal. However I reckon most police officers won't bother unless you are doing something silly, but being pulled over by VOSA could be an issue.

Having the right licence is another issue, I am doing my trailer test next week, it is costing a fortune but still cheaper than getting caught towing something too heavy for a standard car licence, any twin axle car transporter will be way over.
 
There is a distinction between 'recovery A frames' and A frames designed for use with specially adapted vehicles with towing eyes - either way if your trailer has brakes they MUST work to keep within the law. As of yet trailers do not need an MOT or tax but must be roadworthy (ie. tyres, lights etc)
(y)
It's here if you want it, but you have the complication of getting it back to me... though I do have some reccying to do up your way for next year's C2C attempt :rolleyes: (never learn...) - and collection could be a possiblity... not sure yet.
Either way I need to know by this Sunday to find out the arms and ratchets as I've adapted mine to work with either the arms (for yet another Panda purchase like yourself... (tch...) or without, directly onto specially fitted towing eyes.
 
lightweightmick - I'll give a go with A frame if you will be that kind and have a look for the arms and straps, is the hinch high fine then?
Don't worry about the frame return to you, I'm more than a sure that i'll be traveling down along the M1 soonner or later to pick some bits.
Please let me know if you will be strugling to find the missing bits.
 
Bearing in mind my drive is uneven I get 14-15" to top of ball. Might be an idea to get a dropper plate just in case. (need 2 extra bolts then s well, but I may have some spare bolts)
Got arms out now and will make sure all necessary bolts are present.
You'll need a 19mm spanner to adjust the frame - though if I get time I'll set it up to correct Panda width for you - but it's going to fit in your car better without the arms - so the spanner will be needed once you get there.
PM me with details and I'll give you my phone no.
cheers
mick
 
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:) - correction to above - 2*19mm (1 has to be open-ended for locknuts at hitch end). It's probably set too wide as shown here. Best place for chains is around inner end of track control arms. It took me about 15 mins to attach when I fetched Ruth. I stopped a few times to make sure ratchets were still nice and tight (and a good chance to make sure all lights are still working on tow board) (y)
 

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