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Old 28-07-2013   #31
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Re: Project Fallout

Quote Originally Posted by VmanC View Post
Never mind the mot this is definately going to need an SVA test!
I'd read about that. Adding bull bars is an extra "pedestrian hazard" and if they are not bolt on factory or licensed after market ones you'd struggle to get through the M.O.T and could be flagged up by an M.O.T tester for IVA/SVA attention.

Unless you go to the same M.O.T guy I do that is.
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Old 28-07-2013   #32
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Re: Project Fallout

Quote Originally Posted by AndyRKett View Post
No you really can't, repairs have to be seam welded the visibility of the rot is irrelevant its the integrity of the panel which they can assess just by tapping it, its quite easy to tell what's good metal and what's hidden rust with a tap
They can poke and prod as much as they like and if they're still not happy they can refuse to MOT the car heavy underseal can also be documented as an advisory. And structural areas need to conform to factory specs so cutting out rotten sills and replacing with 6 inch I beam although easily stronger than the original sill is still cause for fail as you've altered the structure.

I once heard a story about a carpenter who replaced the sills on his citroen with solid oak painted to match and easily stronger than a piece of 5mm steal the mot inspector picked it up by tapping didn't know what to do spoke to the owner to find out what was going on, spoke to VOSA to see what to do and was told to fail it as the metal sills that should be in place where basically non exsistant.

The mot inspectors have seen it all so you won't easily pull the wool over their eyes with glue and tack welds, they know what's metal and what's rust, and to be honest its almost impossible to weld on rust, and at the end of the day its your own safety your risking more than anyone else's
As you will see if you look at my Panda's threads I do things properly, far beyond the standard of an MOT repair. I would never bodge a rust repair. I was just saying that from my experince with MOTs you could get away with what I said quite easily, if you tacked on some steel, sealed and painted it the same as the rest of the underside, it would sound like metal when tapped and you would not be able to see how well it was atttached, I would never do it, but I'm sure it has been done. Even if you seam welded the plates on, you can still leave the inner sill structure totally rotten, there are usually 3 or 4 layers to a sill and only 2 are visible, those could be solid/be repaired, but the inner ones be none existent.

Quote Originally Posted by AndyPanda4x4 View Post
MOTers are no longer allowed to tap poke or prod, they are only allowed to look. If they can't see a part of your car because it's covered over with something they have to pass it as normal
I didn't realise they were no longer allowed to poke and prod, that makes it even easier to bodge it

Anyway back to Project Fallout, I think unless you have a very strict MOT tester, a small indent in the sill will be fine. John perhaps you could go and ask your tester beforehand?
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Old 28-07-2013   #33
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Re: Project Fallout

Mot tester's manual 6.1 A1 states deliberate modification is a fail. It does say if it seriously affects its strength but I'd bet most testers wouldn't take a chance on a cill.
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Old 28-07-2013   #34
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Re: Project Fallout

welli think i will just fix the sills and mod the exhaust . maybe make a long flat opening rather than an open pipe.

we will see.

i have just gone out and bought loads of welding supplies so i had better crack on with it
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Old 28-07-2013   #35
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Re: Project Fallout

I know times are tighter than Myleene Klass in a latex catsuit....












....





















....




















....
















....



















....










....sorry what was I saying?

Oh yeah, sills...

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/4005267879...84.m1423.l2649


...if you can stand a few days wait and your budget isn't as tight as Myleene Klass in a latex catsuit...













....


















....








....sorry it's "National Crap Gag Day" today.
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Old 28-07-2013   #36
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Re: Project Fallout

@AndyRKett Well that was the rule when i got mine done six weeks ago anyway...

My Brother-in-law is a tester and works for an expensive car garage, they love it when i roll in with the rotten panda to their lovely clean workshop.
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Old 28-07-2013   #37
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Re: Project Fallout

Oh "Fallout"! Like post apocalyptic nuclear fallout not bits falling out as you drive down the road.
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Old 28-07-2013   #38
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Re: Project Fallout

Quote Originally Posted by AndyPanda4x4 View Post
@AndyRKett Well that was the rule when i got mine done six weeks ago anyway...
I'm gonna have to go with what the rule book says
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Old 29-07-2013   #39
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Re: Project Fallout

Quote Originally Posted by Liquid Knight View Post
I know times are tighter than Myleene Klass in a latex catsuit...




....sorry what was I saying?

Oh yeah, sills...

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/4005267879...84.m1423.l2649


...if you can stand a few days wait and your budget isn't as tight as Myleene Klass in a latex catsuit...




....sorry it's "National Crap Gag Day" today.
Or he could just buy one from me

Don't think new body panels fits with the theme though.
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Old 29-07-2013   #40
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Re: Project Fallout

took.. err.. hammered the back bumper off today. damn nuts just spinning and not undoing.
say, you allowed bumpers made out of metal bar/ scaffolding poles i was thinking of having 2 running along the back.. maybe 3...


took the rear leaf shackle off today.. big hole.. the whole tube the shackle is meant to fit down has rusted out.. thankfully the tube its self is totally rust free however the metal sub frame is paper thin. going to have to cut loads out to try and find good metal... thinking of cutting a hole out in the rear slam panel and hammering a length of box section down the whole thing then drilling and plug welding it all in.
the other side is just starting to go but it has come in a hole so it looks like i am going to have to cut all that out and rebuild it.

the rear wheel arch seams are rusted out quite bad. i am going to have to do some work there. boot floor is full of holes. i was thinking of cutting out and scrapping the whole boot floor up to where the rear seats sit (as that is where the rust stops), then weld some flat or checker plate steel in its place, seam welding it to the under floor supports.

took the fuel tank off too i'll be welding near it so just to be on the safe side. looks like it is a replacement tank... its in pretty good condition.

got the hand brake working.. in fact i have got it working really well too


friend of mine has given me some metal tubing from a old glass table which has long since smashed... sure i can do something with that.
he has also given me some old 2 inch exhaust piping from off his pajero. slight rust in spots but a few years left in it.

sadly i spent most of the day running around looking for places that sell welding stuff. managed to find a place, got the gas, tips and a new shroud, came back home.. set the welder up.. just in time to pack it away as it was getting late.

also does anyone know what size the UJ's are on the 4x4 prop shaft?

and just for laughs, a list of things i need:

both rear shocks (would like some longer ones )
front shock
prop shaft roller bearing kit / new UJ's (the play in this thing is just fantastic all the bearings have dropped out! the two center mount bearings are solid as a rock )
gear linkage repair kit ( x2 - one for Talon )
leaf spring / shackle bushes
complete brake pipe renewal
all pads and shoes changed
front disks?? (slight lip)
master cylinder??


wonder how much all this lot is going to cost me

sadly i will be stuck doing the welding work. as the money i have needs to go to getting Talon new front shocks!

mind you.. Talon has one good shock.. and its on the side the shock is broken on this (still yet unnamed) 4x4... hmm i may be able to get away with just having to buy 2 new shocks rather than 3...should save me.. £40!

not done any video or took any pictures yet. i will tomorrow!


anyhoo.. bed time for me..
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Last edited by Dragon Man; 29-07-2013 at 02:54.
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Old 29-07-2013   #41
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Re: Project Fallout


Quote Quote:
also does anyone know what size the UJ's are on the 4x4 prop shaft?
23.9mm X 61.3mm , standard fiat 1300 1500 124 125 131 132 argenta fso polonez panda lada sedans{not niva 4x4} .......etc one. Want good one? buy Matsuba UJ's.
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Old 29-07-2013   #42
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Re: Project Fallout

Quote Originally Posted by Dragon Man View Post

wonder how much all this lot is going to cost me
sometimes Free isn't always such a good deal

still you'll learn a lot about body work fabrication
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Old 29-07-2013   #43
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Re: Project Fallout



Couldn't find Myleene he's some random septic who looks a little bit like her.
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Old 30-07-2013   #44
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Re: Project Fallout

hey guys, heres some pictures:

not much rust on the back slam panel, just one hole.


oh.. dear.. well theres your problem.


and of the same side:

this is now fixed, no pictures though only just got in from doing it! (1:30AM)


the other side is almost the same :/


and another of the same side as you can see it was starting to go:


drivers door sill lip was starting to go:


heres one of the drivers side rear boot seam


and one of the passenger side:


here is one of the well ventilated boot floor:


could not find any rust converter, but have loads of blue hammerite and thankfully it has the stuff built in so i used that. gonna be a pain to weld to though but i will deal with that when the time comes. once i have done this i will start work on the inside of the boot floor.

also that big tow bar.. it is not on the car now. had to take it off to see if anything else is rusted underneath it. weighs a tone!


i have done two 20 minute videos
i just go on about crap in them so not really worth putting up. i will stick them on youtube but not tonight as i am way to tired.
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Old 30-07-2013   #45
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Re: Project Fallout

Come on John get back to work on it we want results!!!!
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