Panda (Classic) 1989 Fiat Panda 1000S New Zealand

kolza said:

Long reach 14 or 17mm socket with a bit of insulation tape worked fine for me few time, or do the superglue trick.


Inspect the flywheel for cracks or really rough surface - if noting like that and no leak at crank seal just clean it with brake/clutch cleaner/degreaser and fit the new clutch. It will bed-in within few first setoffs .

Click to expand...

Thanks for that. About to try it tonight. Any tips regarding oil as the gearbox shares oil with the drive shafts from memory.

What's the best oil to replace it with? Would love to get it all done tonight.

Are there other consumables I should pick up before I start?

Hi guys.
Started on this tonight. I picked up 3ltrs of zc90 locally. So looking forward to having proper gearbox oil in.

I knew there was a leak from my frost plug behind the flywheel. But hadn't seen it properly till today after removing everything.

Question is. Does anyone know the exact size of this frost plug? So I can get a new one tomorrow before taking this one out?

I'm also going to get my flywheel machined tomorrow. As there are slight cracks on it. I hope it can be machined still.

Old clutch vs new Valeo.



Everything out in a mess.


I look forward to any answers re the frost plug.

Do you mean the block side plug?


PLUG 55182787 DIAM 50



Have a look here
http://eper.fiatforum.com/eper/navi...=3&WINDOW_ID=1&SGRP_COD=1&SGS_COD=0&DRW_NUM=1

kolza said:

Do you mean the block side plug?


PLUG 55182787 DIAM 50


or crank shaft seal? 40004190

Click to expand...

Yeah pretty sure that's it. It's behind the flywheel. Thanks!!

well, just read this start to finish, thats a very cool little panda you got there

Did you ever find out the exact width and offset of them wheels?

blu73 said:

well, just read this start to finish, thats a very cool little panda you got there

Did you ever find out the exact width and offset of them wheels?

Click to expand...

Hah thanks! Um width is only 6" but offset would be zero to low. I'll let you know next time they are off the car.

Ok new question.
I've got the gearbox back in with the new clutch installed.
I put the car in reverse and I noticed the speedo went minus Kms.
It works fine going forward. But I've never noticed it do that before.

Is that normal?

clowndog said:

Ok new question.
I've got the gearbox back in with the new clutch installed.
I put the car in reverse and I noticed the speedo went minus Kms.
It works fine going forward. But I've never noticed it do that before.

Is that normal?

View attachment 168582

Click to expand...

Hello! It's prefectly normal, mine does it all the time it's because the speedo is cable driven! Myth has it if you drive in reverse your mileage goes down

Lewis

lewisreeves said:

Hello! It's prefectly normal, mine does it all the time it's because the speedo is cable driven! Myth has it if you drive in reverse your mileage goes down

Lewis

Click to expand...

Haha nice one I was thinking that! I guess I never noticed it till now as I am looking back when reversing. *this time I was still on the stands making sure the gears all worked.

I lost the rear gearbox mount nut on the trip up north. A loud bang. It was horrible to drive for the rest of the trip, as any revs from the engine moved the whole gearstick back and fourth as the mount wasn't doing anything.

But a small journey to the hardware store and $2.40 later I had a new bolt and nut. Tightened it all up and man it feels sooo good!

Wish I had realised this earlier.

The car ran mint on my journey home last night. Such a fun open road drive.

Love this thing.

Hi Guys,

I'm on the hunt for an engine replacement for the near future, probably go with the 8v or 16v 1242cc from the punto.

But before I do all this I'm noticing that my little panda doesn't seem as strong in revs as it was.
It's fine for town, but up big hills it sounds a bit rattly in the higher revs and it looses power sooner. or even if I am in 4th and don't change down on a hill it sounds rattly.

Is this the Camshaft worn? It's high milage, 308,000kms or (191,382 Miles) Maybe it's rockers? I still want to swap the engine eventually but if theres an easy fix to get more milage out of it then I'm all ears.

Where do you get camshafts from?

Cheers,

clowndog said:

... if I am in 4th and don't change down on a hill it sounds rattly.

Is this the Camshaft worn? It's high milage, 308,000kms or (191,382 Miles) Maybe it's rockers? I still want to swap the engine eventually but if theres an easy fix to get more milage out of it then I'm all ears.

Where do you get camshafts from?

Cheers,

Click to expand...

Fire engines are bomb proof, if the is no issues with oil supply and distributions via the gallery it should be fine. Up the hill rattle sound - check and adjust (retard) timing as it might be 'pinging'. If it was like that over some time there might be some crude around valves or even burn out valve seat compression /leak down test would show.
Valve clearance could be checked as well - with that sort or mileage it might be out as well.


1242cc 16v would suit the character of your panda were well.


If camshaft lobes are worn ( highly unlikely if no lubrication issues) just alter the shims. Camshafts normally comes as second hand, there are few options as you could get std cam replaced, or get one from 4x4/selecta engine (0.9mm higher lift) or go for the 866 camshaft from Punto mk1 P75 ( no mechanical pump drive)


Ps. try run panda for some time on higher octane petrol to eliminate pre-ignition.

kolza said:

Fire engines are bomb proof, if the is no issues with oil supply and distributions via the gallery it should be fine. Up the hill rattle sound - check and adjust (retard) timing as it might be 'pinging'. If it was like that over some time there might be some crude around valves or even burn out valve seat compression /leak down test would show.
Valve clearance could be checked as well - with that sort or mileage it might be out as well.


1242cc 16v would suit the character of your panda were well.


If camshaft lobes are worn ( highly unlikely if no lubrication issues) just alter the shims. Camshafts normally comes as second hand, there are few options as you could get std cam replaced, or get one from 4x4/selecta engine (0.9mm higher lift) or go for the 866 camshaft from Punto mk1 P75 ( no mechanical pump drive)


Ps. try run panda for some time on higher octane petrol to eliminate pre-ignition.

Click to expand...

Thanks Kolza,

I always run on the highest octane available in nz, most places it's 98 some only have 95

I'll buy a timing light and see if I can retard the timing appropriately.

With regards to swapping in a 16v 1242 engine. Is it more or less problematic that I have a points ignition and no computer currently?

clowndog said:

With regards to swapping in a 16v 1242 engine. Is it more or less problematic that I have a points ignition and no computer currently?

Click to expand...

Best way is to buy whole car this apparently is the most cost/labour effective way. You will use ECU from donor same as engine loom, immobiliser stuff, exh. manifold, down pipe, and lots of other stuff.


Make sure donor car/engine is no drive-by-wire as this adds more work.


Please consider how to upgrade brake system first, fitting remote brake servo or 4x4 servo and pedal box is the minimum.

That's one hell of a mileage for a little 1.0 engine! It must be fairly worn in places despite its' design and maintenance...

I'm sure you could do a conventional rebuild / refresh, I wouldn't be surprised if the camshaft is worn.

If you put a 1.25 12V in it then go for the earlier version with less electronics on it, it should be simpler to fit although it may be old itself. You'll probably need the fuel tank and pump etc from the later injected Panda - I had a 1992 1.0 CLX.

basically the easiest engine to use is the 16v from a mk1 punto or old shape bravo/brava - these had the fly by wire throttle. Everythbing newer is fly-by-wire, which can be used but as said its more complex a swap as you either need to source TB and ecu and loom etc from a car with cable throttle or you would need to install the pedal box from the donor car and convert to fly-by-wire.

The only real disadvantage you have is that yours is not injection which means the fuel setup is a bigger job too. I looked into this when i started my swap and you basically looking at either swapping the tank for a later pump in tank style tank and then the pump from the donor fits in the sender unit in the tank. Or you need to build an inline pump setup which is what i decided to do in the end, not actually started putting it together yet but should be easy enough, feed line into pre-pump filter and then pump, use existing line upto the front, stick a check valve near the rail and then connect the return line to the return on the rail. This made me remember also if you use a newer donor they have a returnless fuel system so you would have a little more faff here too.

Hi guys. I've found this on a local auction site. It says it's a 75hp punto engine 8v. But i thought the 75hp were 16v.

Thoughts on if it would be a good swap or not are welcome.

https://www.trademe.co.nz/1430605019

75hp is the 1242 mpi 8v, the 16v is 85hp in early mk1 puntos or 80hp in later ones.

That advert is a bit weird as it says the engine has a spi manifold, as i see it there is little point in a P75 engine without the mpi head. And if it doesnt have the mpi head does it have the P75 cam in it?

I know we live on opposite sides of the world but price seems excessive to me, bearing in mind my P75 engine cost me £100, with all ancillaries, inlet and exhaust manifolds, throttle body, engine loom, ecu, like everything.

blu73 said:

75hp is the 1242 mpi 8v, the 16v is 85hp in early mk1 puntos or 80hp in later ones.



That advert is a bit weird as it says the engine has a spi manifold, as i see it there is little point in a P75 engine without the mpi head. And if it doesnt have the mpi head does it have the P75 cam in it?



I know we live on opposite sides of the world but price seems excessive to me, bearing in mind my P75 engine cost me £100, with all ancillaries, inlet and exhaust manifolds, throttle body, engine loom, ecu, like everything.

Click to expand...

Mm yes it very costly that 1.2 8v punto whole car can be around £200 Or should it read $99.99

Thanks for that mate, So the engine is the worst of the 75hp models? Price is a bit high, but there isn't much around in New Zealand. So thought I should get another opinion.

I don't have to do an engine swap yet as my little 1000cc is running fine. But I'm always on the look out due to lack of options.

an actual full P75 engine is pretty much the best of the 8v fire engines though generally speaking. For me dropping one in my 750 with will be doubling the power from when it was new of production line, should make it properly able to keep up with modern traffic on motorway and actually drive up the hills where i live which it could do before but struggled. If you find a full one with the mpi head i'd say go for it, particularly if your panda is injection already as it will be super easy then, mine was carb and dizzy so a bit more work but nout major.