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Cinquecento Van Aaken turbo (N246 UCF)

Introduction

Went and collected it today from paula, thank you very much, i promise i will look after it.

richard got on very well with it, and i will do my best to complete it.

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to be honest im going to need some help with the engine, i know a hell of alot about engines and sorting them out, but i really dont know where to begin with this one!
^^ agreed with that.

Injector wise, this is running an mf2 so just sat idling this is no different from a normal cinq sporting except its now low compression for the turbo. So just treat as any other car that idling poorly, check plugs coils etc etc.

Does it start easy enough and then idle rough and low or is it hard to start as well. My turbo starts on the button nearly everytime, sometimes it cranks over once or twice but in general starts as a car should. Only time i have had issues starting it was when my fpr broke and it was overfuelling heavily but even then it was only hot starts that were an issue.

As i said before just crack on with a general service, check the timing etc while your down there - might even be worth getting new belts as it has sat for a long time that car, it is no big deal on these to swap belts and stuff.
 
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have a look on the throttle body and see if the fuel pressure adjusting screw has been messed with it normally has a blue sort of paint over it and is a allen key type screw its not on the injector but on the bit behind it. this may of been tampered with, also check the throttle cable is adjusted correctly and try a new throttle position sensor and coil pack and check to see if there are any splits in the map sensor pipe (y)

should keep you busy
 
ok, checked spark plugs, and its got BCPR6E in it, so i will probably order some 7's and try them, the plugs are very black and dry. (ie not oily)

this is it this morning starting up:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HFOL6sOosTo&feature=youtu.be

the boost guage & dump valve wasnt working, found the feed for the boost gauge was in two pieces so bypassed it and all seems to be well now with no vacuum leaks and dump valve now working correctly.

runs alot better but still not right now, still wont idle, video makes the dump valve sound very 'odd' but it sounds normal.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0AKzs9j3Rbk&feature=youtu.be

it seemed to be puffing out some blue smoke from the exhaust too, which mostly cleared but was still there.
 
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Well as i keep saying its been sat for ages, it NEEDS a run out and a service. It sitting idling means nothing even if you are blipping throttle and seeing boost pressure, the car is not under load so no-one knows how it will drive. Perhaps check all the remaining vac lines and then try taking it for a spin once warm and report back what happens. I wouldn't be jumping in at a full rebuild just yet but compression test is never a bad plan.
 
Well as i keep saying its been sat for ages, it NEEDS a run out and a service. It sitting idling means nothing even if you are blipping throttle and seeing boost pressure, the car is not under load so no-one knows how it will drive. Perhaps check all the remaining vac lines and then try taking it for a spin once warm and report back what happens. I wouldn't be jumping in at a full rebuild just yet but compression test is never a bad plan.

i understand what your saying, but if its not right even on idle/revving then it defiantly wont be any good with engine under load, i did put up a thread about the lambda, i will start there, i dont know whats happened but nearly every plug within the loom has been cut and wires put in instead, even down to the crank sensor (coil packs are still original though)

im going to re-do the vacuum hose side of it, on the back of the throttle body 2 small nipples poking out behind for pipes, both blocked off, is this ok?
 
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yeah that sounds right, see here, is it 9 & 10 that are blocked off?

can't see any reason the the loom to be hacked up, that there is probably the main issue if thats the case, well somewhere amongst the wires. There should be some wires that have been spliced into yes but not much really, just a few near the ecu.

Sounds like you have a task on your hands there.
 
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im going to re-do the vacuum hose side of it, on the back of the throttle body 2 small nipples poking out behind for pipes, both blocked off, is this ok?

Depends entirely on which pipes are blocked off. There's a picture in the guides that may help (although you're likely to have one where the MAP pipe goes directly to the inlet manifold.

I'd be inclined to start with a fresh loom.

Can't see lambda accounting for low idle speed. But I'd do a compression test first -- no point in faffing around with electronics if the engine is knackered.
 
yeah that sounds right, see here, is it 9 & 10 that are blocked off?

can't see any reason the the loom to be hacked up, that there is probably the main issue if thats the case, well somewhere amongst the wires. There should be some wires that have been spliced into yes but not much really, just a few near the ecu.

Sounds like you have a task on your hands there.

hi, yeah thats them :)

iv no idea why its such a mess under the bonnet, i wont even go there with how the air filter was fitted... (certainly not accusing richard of doing this because it could of been anyone by the way ;)) luckily most is obvious to me, so fairly easily fixable, i just hope once it has the hoses re-plumbed and a service it will run alot better.
 
air filter is bang on where van aaken put it, same location as mine just different filter. Seen people relocate the filter down behind gearbox near the inner arch but i got a CDA and plan to leave it where my filter is now and just have a pipe going somewhere to cold..

I'd be inclined to get a full engine loom and start again as well.. a chopped up loom is just gonna cause no end of niggles.
 
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