My 2001 Marea JTD110 is on 67K miles, so thinking about getting the cambelt done. I note plenty of advise on the petrol engines need doing sooner as the tensioners are made of cheese (my old Brava one failed at 40-something-K ).
Whats the general opinon on the diesel engines? What else is it wise to change at the same time?

Cheers

Steve

Same for the diesel.. Get it done much earlier than Fiat reccomend. For the cost its worth doing every 50k instead of pushing for 72k..

Get the waterpump, tensioner and pulleys changed. Also might be worth having the aux belt tensioner and pulleys changed too.

Had a poke around with eper tonight, confirmed that all the diesels seem to be the same from the old TD75 to the 2.4JTD, all same tensioner, idler and pump. Different belt in some cases, even on apparently the same engine. (i.e Marea and Stilo 1.9JTD's are different???).
The big question is, how difficult a job is a belt change on the diesels? I've seen the Franklin lock down kit (£££) any others around?
I've also got the fiat Workshop manual CD, very useful in general but doesn't cover engine jobs at all (other than explaining some ancillary systems). I can only assume there are engine specific manuals somewhere.

Steve

A lot may depend on if the car has airconditioning or not.

Following on from my trawl through the parts database, I've looked through the manuals I've got, and cambelt instructions are way back with the old 1910 TD75 engine. Auxillary belt routing, aircon compressor location etc are the same as the 2001 JTD. Now to inwardly digest and decide if I can do the job.

Just for the archives for anyone looking in future.
Job done, and not really difficult.
Laser tools do a tool kit for fiat diesel (look on ebay - £40). Contains a flywheel locking plate, which I didn't use as it wouldn't fit. The useful bit is for locking the pulley end of the crank at TDC, by reference to a pin which temporaily replaces a bolt on the side of the engine.
You'll also need a set of short RIBE bits, M6, M8 & M10 sizes. Generally there isn't enough room to fit these into a socket wrench, so its a case of using them with a spanner (or a 3/8" socket set with short sockets & thin ratchet)

1) Jack up, support on stands & remove wheel.
2) Remove plastic cover plates under wheel arch.
3) Crank the aux tensioner anticlockwise (long T-bar & socket probably the best way), remove belt
4) Remove top cam belt covers - note there one bolt well recessed just above the rear of the side engine mount
5) Remove the reaction arm & its mounting block on the side of the engine - that M10 ribe is tight.
6) Remove aux pulley & lower belt cover
7) Line up the timing marks on the cam pulley & use the timing tool to line up the crank at TDC.
8) Slacken the tensioner nut, remove belt.
9) Fit new belt - marked lines on the belt line up with cam & crank marks exactly. Injection pump timing is not critical on common-rail engines.
10) Lever the tensioner across to max & lock.
11) Crank over by hand a couple of times, check everything comes back to the timing marks
12) Adjust tensioner so the little pointer points at the index hole above the slot, and lock in place. 25Nm, & new nut or threadlock recommended!
13) <Haynes mode>Refit everything in reverse order</Haynes mode>
14) Torques M6/Cambelt covers 9Nm, M8's @25Nm, M10's @50Nm.
15) Refitting aux belt is PITA, again socket & long T-bar, this time I G-clamped the end to the front engine mount to hold the tensioner out of the way.

YMMV, I'm not resonsible for your cock-ups, check a genuine manaul first etc.

Thank you your instructions where a great help to me. Been looking for a workshop maual for long time. Wish I had found this site sooner.