Anyone done this before?
Found the discs for under a tenner each at a local Motor Factors, pads were only £15 Better than the on line quote of £66 I'd had......
Aaanyway, the job didn't quite go as planned.
First, the inboard pads didn't fit so out with the Angle Grinder to take a little excess metal off. Easy.
Then, with a Haynes manual type "Simply screw the pistons back into the calipers" step left to do, thought I was there. Not so. Pistons would screw out, but would they hell screw back in, just spun free! Even nipped the flexi pipe and opened the bleed screw to let the fluid back out bit it was having none of it. Tried a clamp to push them back, tried all sorts. Ended up taking the caliper apart to see how the damn thing worked - the female part of the screw mechanism isn't rigidly fixed into the piston so there's little to stop it spinning instead of screwing back in. Thread was perfect, no marks etc. just a crap design IMO. Only way to get the piston back in was to simultaneously hammer and screw the little bleeder back in.
I assume a proper press-type tool with the correct thread is available, if so get one if you're doing them!
Job's all done now though, at least they don't twitter and squeak any more
Should be good for the MOT too, was only about 1/2" of disc face left on one side!
Found the discs for under a tenner each at a local Motor Factors, pads were only £15 Better than the on line quote of £66 I'd had......
Aaanyway, the job didn't quite go as planned.
First, the inboard pads didn't fit so out with the Angle Grinder to take a little excess metal off. Easy.
Then, with a Haynes manual type "Simply screw the pistons back into the calipers" step left to do, thought I was there. Not so. Pistons would screw out, but would they hell screw back in, just spun free! Even nipped the flexi pipe and opened the bleed screw to let the fluid back out bit it was having none of it. Tried a clamp to push them back, tried all sorts. Ended up taking the caliper apart to see how the damn thing worked - the female part of the screw mechanism isn't rigidly fixed into the piston so there's little to stop it spinning instead of screwing back in. Thread was perfect, no marks etc. just a crap design IMO. Only way to get the piston back in was to simultaneously hammer and screw the little bleeder back in.
I assume a proper press-type tool with the correct thread is available, if so get one if you're doing them!
Job's all done now though, at least they don't twitter and squeak any more
Should be good for the MOT too, was only about 1/2" of disc face left on one side!