hi guys,

did couple of search in this forum and can really find the info that i am looking for. i am thinking of increasing the turbo boost of my year 2000 JTD105. i already plug in a Vector-Tuning box and it has been running well for a year. now, i am on the second stage to install a manual boost controller (GFB, Hallman, etc) to jack up the pressure.

i understand stock is running at 1bar and wondering what will be the max pressure running reliabily. anyone done that and able to share your mod?

thks.

Can you adjust the fuelling to match any boost increase ?. What sort of power is the car making now with the tuning box ?. It would be better to remove the tuning box and remap it properly. It can make plenty of power without touching the turbo..

hi stylers,

thks for your input. ecu remapping for JTD is out of reach over hear (Malaysia). fyi, there is only less than 20unit of JTD105 marea weekend running here. i hav been using the Vector Tuning box from germany for a yr now and i would say it satisfy me. however, i believe with an slight increase of boost 1.2bar, it could utilize the additional fuel being injected and have a better and complete combustion.

i am thinking getting some manual boost control like Turbonetic, Hallman, etc.

i am surprise that not many boosting the turbo over here!

fair enough then. the easiest way of achieving the boost increase would be to shorten the actuator rod on the turbo, however its a bit of a job to get at it, and I'm not sure its easily adjustable. Or use a boost controller in the pressure line to the actuator, but note you must have some sort of a boost gauge to see whats going on, and only make small adjustments at a time.

on the JTD there is already an electronic boost controller that is controlled by the ECU. a remap will allow you to adjust its behaviour.

i would not recommend fitting a manual boost controller on the JTD. if you know what you're doing you could fit a different electronic boost controller (and probably make it use the original solenoid to make life easier).

personally, i would rather post your ECU to a remapper and then get them to post it back when it is remapped.

there aint a boost control valve on the 105 JTD.. its purely controlled by the wastegate actuator.

stylers said:

there aint a boost control valve on the 105 JTD.. its purely controlled by the wastegate actuator.

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are you saying the wastegate actuator is a traditional pneumatic valve on the 105, and not operated by an electric solenoid like it is on other JTD's?

if that is true then i would fit an electronic boost controller.

jug said:

are you saying the wastegate actuator is a traditional pneumatic valve on the 105, and not operated by an electric solenoid like it is on other JTD's?

if that is true then i would fit an electronic boost controller.

Click to expand...

hi,

yes...my year 2000 JTD105 turbo only have a direct pressure actuator wastegate. no fancy electronic control which only available for newer model.

so, only way to increase the boost will be a manual controller...

tazztham said:

only way to increase the boost will be a manual controller...

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you can still install an electronic boost controller yourself. you can often get them for less than £100 on ebay. even a blitz boost controller can be bought for £200 on many websites. fitting isnt as easy as a manual boost controller, you will need to install an electric solenoid and the control unit and the wiring.

hi jug,

thanks for the tips. i thought about that but with the price tag is not within my reach. i am no hardcore racer and i just need to boost up to 1.2bar for mix driving. not likely to tweak it all the time.

checking on ebay for manual boost controller and found many type. some call bleeding type and some is gate type. so that i read gate type is better than bleeding type. any input on this???

tazztham said:

any input on this???

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a bleed valve is not a good option. it only bleeds air from the wastegate so it fools the wastegate into thinking there is lower pressure. the wastegate still opens early as normal, so boost is increased but it takes just as long to spool.
with a relief valve there is a spring to keep it shut until you achieve the correct pressure. this increases boost and also reduces spooling time so you achieve boost sooner. it is a much better option.

the simplest/easiest way is to try and shorten the actuator rod, if possible - there is usually a threaded rod, with adjuster nut (likely seized though). but whatever method you use, you should use a boost gauge to see effects of any modifications.