rear wheel cylinders

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rear wheel cylinders

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Jan 18, 2012
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I tried to change the drums, shoes and rear wheel cylinders today. Drums and shoes I managed OK but I realised I need a new "clearance recovery device" on one wheel. My trouble is I couldn't budge the brake pipe connector nut.

Any ideas how to get it moving? I left WD-40 on it for an hour & mole grips. It doesn't help that my spanners are crap or the nut is 10.5mm....All I've done is start to round it. HELP!


Then after all that I put it back together went for a drive and the hand-brake stopped working and when I got home the radiator sprung a leak. Happy day,,,,

So any ideas for replacing the wheel cyclinders would be useful.

Thanks
 
I tried to change the drums, shoes and rear wheel cylinders today. Drums and shoes I managed OK but I realised I need a new "clearance recovery device" on one wheel. My trouble is I couldn't budge the brake pipe connector nut.

Any ideas how to get it moving? I left WD-40 on it for an hour & mole grips. It doesn't help that my spanners are crap or the nut is 10.5mm....All I've done is start to round it. HELP!


Then after all that I put it back together went for a drive and the hand-brake stopped working and when I got home the radiator sprung a leak. Happy day,,,,

So any ideas for replacing the wheel cyclinders would be useful.

Thanks


WD40 isn't great for that.., (n)

try Plusgas,
or a similar release oil from Holts, etc;)

HEAT always helps though:)
 
The union nut sounds like it's rusted to the pipe as well as the cylinder. Even if you can unscrew it, you may well twist the pipe.. and the union nut itself sounds damaged. You'll never get it off "next time".

I'd buy a new brake pipe and cut off the old one.

When you fit a new brake pipe put grease the nut threads with some copper grease.. and then stuff some silicone sealant into and around where the pipe emerges from the union, to stop it rusting up again.


Ralf S.
 
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