Anyone come across this before. It's been recommended by a user.

http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/QUENTIN-WILSON-TALKS-ABOUT-AMETECH-ENGINE-RESTORE-OIL_W0QQitemZ4582590952QQcategoryZ10408QQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem

Informed replies only please.

i would only try it on an already ****ed engine imo

dave said:

i would only try it on an already ****ed engine imo

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same here, cant really see how it will work

I have chemical analysis on this product but do not wish to publish it here in the interests of being fair so please contact me by email should you wish to know what the Fuchs Chemists findings were.

Cheers
Simon

Was it Parrafin?

post it, if the majority don't think it fair we will delete it

No it's not paraffin.

I cant post it because it's not my report, it's the property of the author.

You are welcome to email me though.

Cheers
Simon

oilman said:

I cant post it because it's not my report, it's the property of the author.

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Well whats your opinion based on your knowledge of oil, tribology (wear and lubricant science) and the ideas put forward in the report?

Over priced way of blocking your oil filter in plain english (a lot milder than the chemist said in his report though!)

Cheers
Simon

How would that help an engine run better?

Most oil additives are basically worthless but people buy them anyway. The best one that I've ever used and sold was X1R but I don't know if that is availalbe in the UK.

Surely if you change your oil regulary with a new filter and decent oil you don't need additives, flush etc?

DanGil said:

Surely if you change your oil regulary with a new filter and decent oil you don't need additives, flush etc?

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For the most part, that's correct. If you've got a high mileage engine, say with over 100000, flushing it won't hurt and may even help. HOW you flush it can make a difference. Don't pour a litre of flush in it just before change time. That's like taking a bath in dirty water. Drain the old oil out and remove the filter. Replace the filter with the cheapest one available. Replace all of the oil with the cheapest available except for one litre. Pour in the flush. Start and run the engine and follow the flush maker's directions for the amount of time needed, usually five minutes. Again replace the oil and filter, but with the brands you normally use. repeat every 50000 miles afterwards.

If you are going to use an additive, PAY ATTENTION! Don't put natural oil-based additives into full synthetic oil. It will not hurt your engine, but why spend that much money on full synthetic oil if you are going to dilute it with a mineral or natural oil-based additive? I've used Mobil 1 with X1R in the past and it's a great combination. If you have a diesel, make sure that your additive can be used in diesel engines. Not all of them are designed for diesels. Don't put anything into a diesel unless the product specifically mentions that it is suitable for diesels. The temperatures and pressures in a diesel engine are much higher than in a petrol engine. Putting diesel-certified oil or additives in a petrol engine is OK. The reverse is bad news, or can be over time. This also holds true for fuel additives and injector cleaners. If it doesn't say "OK for diesel" or similar on the box or bottle, don't use it in a diesel and don't use diesel additives and cleaners in petrol engines.