Dont know the specific battery I.D.

But because its got all the bells and whistles.. doesnt start on the key.. but ECU decides when..etc

Its NOT the Cheaper Standard battery

Tech .. its got a price

New battery fitted today and the difference in just turning over the engine is incredible.

I think i'd forgotten just how quick a small engine like this will spin over, also our other cars both we've had from new, turn over electronically so you press the button or turn the key and wait for the car to warm the glow plugs and start the car.

In this case the AGM battery was £122 on Amazon as it seems no one like ECP, or GSF had one in stock or could tell me when they would get one, likely due to manufacturing shut downs in china

AndyRKett said:

New battery fitted today and the difference in just turning over the engine is incredible.

I think i'd forgotten just how quick a small engine like this will spin over, also our other cars both we've had from new, turn over electronically so you press the button or turn the key and wait for the car to warm the glow plugs and start the car.

In this case the AGM battery was £122 on Amazon as it seems no one like ECP, or GSF had one in stock or could tell me when they would get one, likely due to manufacturing shut downs in china

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Looks like a rather lot of water in the light unit

chris3234 said:

Looks like a rather lot of water in the light unit

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It looks like it but it’s just a very wet and misty day here, so the whole car is covered with water like that but it’s on the outside of the lens.

AndyRKett said:

It looks like it but it’s just a very wet and misty day here, so the whole car is covered with water like that but it’s on the outside of the lens.

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Strange looke like a line of water inside on the picture
Odd trick of the camera then

A little late to this discussion but would just like to add my experience

Note! This is my 500X 2015 experience

1) Original Fiat battery (within 1st year of warranty) was removed, bench charged by dealer because Start/Stop was not working

2) When start/stop was not working I found that if I disconnected, left for a few moments and then reconnected the current sensor lead on the battery in-line module start/stop would start working again

3) Further down the line start/stop stopped working except after a really really long drive with minimal vehicle electrical load

4) Not a start/stop fan so it is generally always off and I only turn on to check

5) Replace original battery with a Yuasu (Halfords) Silver 5 Yr Warranty Battery and NOT a more expensive Start/Stop battery and all was fine including Start/Stop and short runs

6) Ages later I (including after an engine ECU update) Start/Stop is not working on short to medium runs. Have not had a really long run (over 1 hour) to see if this recovers

7) Yes I could put my battery on a long full charge and Start/Stop may be OK. Or I could disconnect the sensor wire and I'm 90%+ sure start/stop will resume

My conclusions:

a) Start/Stop vehicle charge measuring algorithms seem to be iffy.
b) If you are not a start/stop fan then on a 500X (2015) then any good quality battery will do and does not require any special systems coding

chris3234 said:

Strange looke like a line of water inside on the picture
Odd trick of the camera then

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Wiped the condensation off the outside of the lens confirming my theory it was on the outside, but found the inside was equally condensed, so we were both right and the picture made it look worse than it was as it added the inside and outside water together. LMAO
s130 it’s a Fiat thing, other cars have perfectly good and functioning stop-start, but Fiat’s system is terrible

Talking about laid up vehicles, I realized this morning, as I was munching my Weetabix, that because we've been doing shopping in the Panda that it's been over 2 weeks since the Ibiza was run. Initially I was more worried that the hand brake might be seized on so a wee while ago I went out to try letting it off and see if I can push it.

As I was opening the driver's door I suddenly thought "wonder what the battery's like?" so I flipped the lever and got my multimeter on it - 11.43 volts, Oh dear! I connected up the CTEK red positive clip to battery positive terminal and black negative clip to the earthing point on the N/S inner wing so that the monitoring module will be in the circuit:





When I switched it on it sat and pulsed the indicator on the first setting. That's when it's checking for battery condition/health (don't really know how it does it though) After about 45 seconds the pulsing stopped and the indicator lights moved on through the lower setting until they arrived at the "bulk charging" setting shown here:



I'd left my meter on the terminals as I switched it on and it showed around 13.5 volts whilst it was doing the checking phase then it settled to 14.3 volts in the bulk charge. It's still doing that now maybe an hour or so later. All looking good, battery voltage has risen slightly to 14.5 volts which would seem to me to indicate the charge is being accepted. No "nasty" burning smells. Looking good at this time!

Just realized I never checked the hand brake. Maybe I'll take it for a drive tomorrow - but just locally for the covid regs - just to give it some running and get the engine properly hot. Maybe I should take a wee walk down to Ferry Road and see if there's much other traffic about first? Don't want to stick out like a sore thumb if noone else is about.

I'd be astounded if you had the roads to yourself.. its far from quiet around my way

Good to see its all responding well to its 'top.up charge'

Just went out to checkup on the charging again. it's put it's green light on and gone into "maintenance mode" showing 14.54 volts on my meter. So now I've disconnected the charger and put everything to bed for the night. Tomorrow I'll check the battery voltage after the cells have had a chance to equalize their surface charges. It's getting much colder now and it's dark enough to need the livingroom lights on - think I'll just leave trying the brake 'till tomorrow!

I'm alternating use of the two cars, so both keep moving. The Fabia is upset of course, and refuses to operate the stop/start.

portland_bill said:

I'm alternating use of the two cars, so both keep moving. The Fabia is upset of course, and refuses to operate the stop/start.

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If I study the Brochure..
Apparently my twinairs should have such a feature..

They start..with no errors .. so the 2012 batteries can stay a little longer

Pugglt Auld Jock said:

Just went out to checkup on the charging again. it's put it's green light on and gone into "maintenance mode" showing 14.54 volts on my meter. So now I've disconnected the charger and put everything to bed for the night. Tomorrow I'll check the battery voltage after the cells have had a chance to equalize their surface charges. It's getting much colder now and it's dark enough to need the livingroom lights on - think I'll just leave trying the brake 'till tomorrow!

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Very pleased to be able to report that approx 18 hours now since removing the charger the battery voltage has stabilized at 12.52 volts - which will do me very nicely thank you!

I just swapped the battery on Mrs Dave's 1.2. I don't remember having any radio issues but we couldn't find the reset number so I connected jump leads to her battery cables, pulled out the old (dropping to 7 volts when cranking) and fitted a Yuasa YBX5012 Silver.

It's the spec for 100HP but dropped in perfectly and was all done in less time than needed to get the tools organised.

Tanya Batteries gave excellent service. It arrived just over 24 hours from placing the order and came really well packed with comprehensive instructions.
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/312599424631

I use my Optimate charger to check out dodgy batteries. If it charges at all that's good, but when it goes full very quickly, it's clear there is next to no capacity in the battery. Wife's battery started the car but dropped to 7 volts while the starter was turning and reset the dash clock. I'm amazed it started at all.

Starter batteries will hit their low current discharge rate at about 30% discharged. The remainder is there but it's barely enough to drive the side lights. The Optimate delivers about 1 amp so a "flat" 50Ah should be full in around 15 hours. However, if it has been slow discharged it could A LOT longer to get full. More likely the self test would have shown it's already dead.

DaveMcT said:

I just swapped the battery on Mrs Dave's 1.2. I don't remember having any radio issues but we couldn't find the reset number so I connected jump leads to her battery cables, pulled out the old (dropping to 7 volts when cranking) and fitted a Yuasa YBX5012 Silver.

It's the spec for 100HP but dropped in perfectly and was all done in less time than needed to get the tools organised.

Tanya Batteries gave excellent service. It arrived just over 24 hours from placing the order and came really well packed with comprehensive instructions.
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/312599424631

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Thanks for the link to Tayna Dave, I've seen reference to them before and just had a look on their site. Very interesting, I've stored their contact details "just in case". I've never bought a battery this way because I have concerns around the delivery company abusing the heavyish package and maybe inflicting internal plate damage which might not manifest itself performancewise until the battery was starting to age a bit?

I've had ~6 batteries delivered from various places, never had an issue with any of them being damaged in transit, they're always well packaged.

Worth noting that modern batteries don’t have conventional “plates” all the new stop stat batteries are even more robust than the lead bricks of old

Pugglt Auld Jock said:

Thanks for the link to Tayna Dave, I've seen reference to them before and just had a look on their site. Very interesting, I've stored their contact details "just in case". I've never bought a battery this way because I have concerns around the delivery company abusing the heavyish package and maybe inflicting internal plate damage which might not manifest itself performancewise until the battery was starting to age a bit?

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It had the manufacturer's "transit plugs" and sealed wrapping, followed by a heavy vacuum bag in a box lined with two layers of 1" polystyrene. The outside said to open immediately. Lots of well written instructions.

DaveMcT said:

I just swapped the battery on Mrs Dave's 1.2. I don't remember having any radio issues but we couldn't find the reset number so I connected jump leads to her battery cables, pulled out the old (dropping to 7 volts when cranking) and fitted a Yuasa YBX5012 Silver.

It's the spec for 100HP but dropped in perfectly and was all done in less time than needed to get the tools organised.

Tanya Batteries gave excellent service. It arrived just over 24 hours from placing the order and came really well packed with comprehensive instructions.
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/312599424631

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I emailed Tanya batteries after I'd read your post Dave and I have received a very nice and informative reply from them. They tell em they ship around 1500 units a day! and they say they think their packaging is almost "courier proof". They are of the opinion that a battery damaged in transit would be immediately apparent on unpacking and if this happened they would dispatch another immediately with a different courier.

I feel greatly reassured by this reply and I think I will be comparing what make and price they would offer me compared to make and price offered by my local suppliers. As we have the two cars I'll never be in that much of a hurry to receive it. I do like a "bargain" but, particularly with batteries, I like to buy a well known make with as large a capacity as will fit the dimensions of the battery tray. So I'm happy to spend a couple of bob more than the absolute cheapest available.