Ok, i may be a bit skint, but I was bored at lunch, so went over to visit Mr ebay. Got myself a 12" active fli trap and autolead 4-27 wiring kit Grand total of £75.49 including delivery, so I'm pretty chuffed!

Now, I want to fit this thing in my boot. I'm guessing the easiest solution is to cut a sheet of mdf/ply to the approximate shape of the boot floor, then screw the sub enclosure to that, and plonk it in the boot nice and snug right? Nice and easy.

Might look a bit pants though.

Would an extra sheet of say 1cm thick wood between the sub and the back seats cause any problems? I know very low frequencies aren't directional, but would the sheet of wood and regular parcel shelf cause much muffling?

Also, I want access to the spare wheel, and be able to remove the sub (very rarely) when required. Does anyone have photos of boot builds that still allow access to the spare? Seem to be in short supply, as most boot builds are pretty elaborate!

Would I be better off getting a distribution block for the live cable? If the sub is removed at any point, I'm guessing a live wire from the battery dangling about would be a big no-no!?

Here's my rough sketch (dimensions aren't spot on at the moment) of what kind of thing i was thinking about. Any input and constructive criticism appreciated

if you look in my gallery i have a very simple boot build.
just as you said i cut an mdf board to the boot shape X 2 with seperators in between to give a central section fro the wires.
now i can remove it for spare wheel access but it takes about 10 mins and the rear seat needs folded down.
its changed a bit since the pic as i fitted a 2nd mono amp in the OS

edit :



nothing special and i need to change some bits for the 2nd amp but that can wait

MrDT said:

Would an extra sheet of say 1cm thick wood between the sub and the back seats cause any problems? I know very low frequencies aren't directional, but would the sheet of wood and regular parcel shelf cause much muffling?

Click to expand...

The wood would cause a small amount of muffling I would have thought, but I reckon it wouldn't be that noticeable.................

MrDT said:

Also, I want access to the spare wheel, and be able to remove the sub (very rarely) when required. Does anyone have photos of boot builds that still allow access to the spare? Seem to be in short supply, as most boot builds are pretty elaborate!

Click to expand...

Have a look in Bushboy's gallery. There might be some photos of the boot build he started in his Tipo, but he sold the car before it was finished. May give you some inspiration

MrDT said:

Would I be better off getting a distribution block for the live cable? If the sub is removed at any point, I'm guessing a live wire from the battery dangling about would be a big no-no!?

Click to expand...

You could do, but I reckon it'd only really be worth it if you were to remove the sub on a fairly regular basis, or if you are planning/thinking about adding more amps to your system. If you do remove the sub for whatever reason, you could always disconnect the cable from the battery and insulate the ends in some way. On the other hand, using a disi block would be a quicker and neater way..........

MrDT said:

Here's my rough sketch (dimensions aren't spot on at the moment) of what kind of thing i was thinking about. Any input and constructive criticism appreciated

Click to expand...

I would get the dimensions of the enclosure first and make 100% sure of the places you could fit the sub and still have access to the spare. There's nothing more annoying than coming up with a design and then realising that it won't work..............................

custard boy said:

Click to expand...

Are those wheelarches covered in material Custard? :chin:

chaos said:

The wood would cause a small amount of muffling I would have thought, but I reckon it wouldn't be that noticeable.................

Have a look in Bushboy's gallery. There might be some photos of the boot build he started in his Tipo, but he sold the car before it was finished. May give you some inspiration

You could do, but I reckon it'd only really be worth it if you were to remove the sub on a fairly regular basis, or if you are planning/thinking about adding more amps to your system. If you do remove the sub for whatever reason, you could always disconnect the cable from the battery and insulate the ends in some way. On the other hand, using a disi block would be a quicker and neater way..........

I would get the dimensions of the enclosure first and make 100% sure of the places you could fit the sub and still have access to the spare. There's nothing more annoying than coming up with a design and then realising that it won't work..............................

Click to expand...

Thanks Chaos

Bushboy doesn't seem to have any photo's of a boot build in his gallery

I won't be removing the sub often. An alternative I thought of was to use one of those small white electrical blocks where you screw in the wires tight (um, a distribution block then i guess lol). Is there any reason these aren't commonly used? Can they not handle enough power or something? Cutting the live wire near the sub (well, amp, but it's an all in one enclosure) and fitting one of these little blocks inline would allow safe removal of the sub with a simple twist of the screw. Still, I guess there's a reason people use these big expensive bits right? No point using 8awg wire if the block will have too high a resistance?

Too late on the dimensions front, already bought the sub It should definately fit though, I had a quick measure last night. No point going overboard with the planning til I have everything sat in front of me and my trusty tape measure though!

Thanks again Mr ICE Fixit

custard boy said:

Click to expand...

That's the nice kind of simplistic thing I'm after Looks really good

Never thought I could just take the whole fake floor out to get at the spare tyre! Worth thinking about really, will give me a lot more freedom

Hopefully won't be needing the spare too often anyway!

chaos said:

Are those wheelarches covered in material Custard? :chin:

Click to expand...

they are,except thats the old cinq and all the ice has moved to the turbo sans wheelarch's

actually, would this do the trick?

barely any difference in price!

does quality matter with these things? I won't be needing a fused one as the wire is fused near battery and the amp has its own fuse too.

should do,i used this kit for mine which had all the distribution blocks etc
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/Brand-New-100...9711825054QQcategoryZ4950QQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem

MrDT said:

Thanks Chaos

Bushboy doesn't seem to have any photo's of a boot build in his gallery

I won't be removing the sub often. An alternative I thought of was to use one of those small white electrical blocks where you screw in the wires tight (um, a distribution block then i guess lol). Is there any reason these aren't commonly used? Can they not handle enough power or something? Cutting the live wire near the sub (well, amp, but it's an all in one enclosure) and fitting one of these little blocks inline would allow safe removal of the sub with a simple twist of the screw. Still, I guess there's a reason people use these big expensive bits right? No point using 8awg wire if the block will have too high a resistance?

Click to expand...

The white distribution blocks generally don't have the required impedance, which can be anything from 30 to 150 amp. The 'proper' disi blocks are generally higher quality in the first place

MrDT said:

Too late on the dimensions front, already bought the sub It should definately fit though, I had a quick measure last night. No point going overboard with the planning til I have everything sat in front of me and my trusty tape measure though!

Thanks again Mr ICE Fixit

Click to expand...

What I meant with the dimensions was looking at possible places you could put the sub enclosure and still have access to the spare wheel

custard boy said:

should do,i used this kit for mine which had all the distribution blocks etc
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/Brand-New-100...9711825054QQcategoryZ4950QQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem

Click to expand...

Ah, I was looking at getting this kit. What's it like? Is the fused disi block a 4awg to 8 awg one?

MrDT said:

actually, would this do the trick?

barely any difference in price!

does quality matter with these things? I won't be needing a fused one as the wire is fused near battery and the amp has its own fuse too.

Click to expand...

If the cable going in and out of the block is the same gauge, then you might not need to fuse it. If you are going to a smaller gauge cable then you must fuse it for the smaller gauge cable Personally I would get a fused block, especially if you are planning upgrades

chaos said:

Ah, I was looking at getting this kit. What's it like? Is the fused disi block a 4awg to 8 awg one?

Click to expand...

fused blocks are the same gauge both sides IIRC.dont see em much as i rarley lift the floor
decent kit and worked well for me since i upgraded to 2 amps soon afterwards anyway

custard boy said:

fused blocks are the same gauge both sides IIRC.dont see em much as i rarley lift the floor
decent kit and worked well for me since i upgraded to 2 amps soon afterwards anyway

Click to expand...

How have you got everything wired up Custard? I'm struggling to see if you can wire that kit in to what I'd consider a safe system.............

Have you got the ANL disi block set up as 1 4awg input going to 2 8 awg outputs? The way I see it, you either need different value ANL fuses (150A IMO, is on the high side for 4 awg), an extra fuse holder or an extra fused disi block - I find it confusing..........................

Ozzie1989 said:

On your "dangly wire upon removal" problem, I've been trying to think of a way to do my wiring in my Doblo, as the seats will be folded down quite often (a few times a month) and so I wanted a quick solution. I looked at many different ways and in the end the best solution was to use 2 of THESE, Anderson Plugs were originally used in trucks for their removable microwaves etc, but easily used for your amp. They will support up to 175amps at 12v or 350amps if you buy the more expensive one!

By the way, who did you get your Fli Trap off on eBay? Was it new for that money

Click to expand...

that looks like a nice possible alternative, thanks even more convenient than unscrewing a wire!

i got the sub off this guy. He often pops them up buy it now at £64 plus £6 p+p, tried my luck at an auction (he had 3 closing within 2 mins of each other today) and won £55 plu £6 p+p, good deal

ok, they're not exactly 'brand new' but they haven't really been used, just the packaging may be a tad tatty or whatever. so long as they've not been pushed to mad extremes by some tit it should be fine. hell, paulbfd reccomends second hand kit if the price is right, this has the right price and hasn't really been used

if you go for the active fli 12, this is the best price i've found for the appropriate wiring kit (8awg, autoleads, pc4-27)

keep us updated with whatever you end up doing (this is all very much a learning experience for me!)

MrDT said:

hell, paulbfd reccomends second hand kit if the price is right, this has the right price and hasn't really been used

Click to expand...

Nothing wrong at all with second hand kit - my amps are second hand

I bought my Fli of that guy aswell, it was brand new as far as I can tell, they just sit in a warehouse i think, mine just had a few bits of dust on it!
It was packaged very well though, just not in the original packagaing.

i think one of u guys should come to liverpool and set my base box an amp up cause im thick! lol jus jokes